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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Fasteners for the 4wd rear fender inserts

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Which way do the plastic fasteners cinch that hold the rear wheel well plastic liners? They have a round post in the center of the fastener. Do they push in or pull out to secure them? Any special tool needed?
 
They are like pop-rivets, except that they are plastic, and yes, they take a special tool for their larger diameter. The tool can be had at UAP/NAPA, and auto body supply shops, among others.



Also, the fasteners are much less expensive elsewhere than at the dealer.



Tom
 
Sorry, not much help here

I tried everything I could think of to pull the stem. Pliers, channel locks, vise grips. I gave up and bought the tool. I installed the rear wells on mine, (2wd), looks cleaner. If I remember the tool was 25 or less.



There are alot smarter people than me on this board. Hopefully someone will chime in and give you some good advice.
 
Thanks guys, I want to put them on my 2wd.



JCockrel, How much are they getting for the wheel well inserts?

Any other place to get them than the dealer?
 
I added them almost 3 yrs ago. I shopped around dealers in my area and thought they were asking too much, 65+ apiece. I got mine in Amarillo for 52. Don't know if they are available from mopar4less.com
 
I just bought the liners for my 2002 at the dealer for $27 each. The rivets however were $1. 49 each (rip-off). It sure seems like you should be able to pull up the stem with pliers and cut it off, or push from the rear before cutting. What was the problem with this method J Cockrell?
 
I had to remove mine to knock out a few dents from my bed before I had the Line-X put in. I drilled out the old and then went to an autobody supply place and picked up some removable plastic rivits. They aren't OEM but they work great and are real nice because I can take the fenders in and out.
 
Rogerblind, Tried to push from behind with my wife pulling on the stem. Just could not get it to work. Once the "molly" action takes affect..... Suprisingly that is some tuff plastic. ???? The rivet tool is a good addition to the tool box. It might even get used 3 or 4 times :-laf
 
why not just use aluminum rivets they are cheap enough. Mine was fixed that way after the bed was lifted off on one side to install a Cody gooseneck hitch.
 
Yea, aluminum won't rust. I just called my Bumper to Bumper guy and he has rivets in stock that are installed by hand. You push a pin in while pushing thru hole and release pin. You do need a special tool to get them off if you need to since they are reusable. I have not looked at them yet but will this weekend I will.
 
Just installed mine today without the NAPA tool (out of stock at my NAPA). Used pliers and a screw driver, with no problems. Just pre-compressed each rivet a little and then restraightened and put thru hole. Held rivet head down with a screw driver and pulled on the pin with pliers. Done in 60 minutes, including removing both rear wheels to make access easier. It really looks better with the liners. Too bad Dodge cost-reduced this part out between 2000 and 2002 (along with under hood insulation and second passenger grab handle). In another week or so I will have completed the factory assembly job.
 
cool, rogerblind

They do look much better with them on, don't they. Glad you were able to get them on w/o the tool, I was too lazy to remove the wheels. :D
 
Any autobody supply store should be able to get you the rivits and gun



Rivits - Box (don't remember how many - at least 15) Marhyde - 48150 - cost me $5. 05



Tool - rivit gun - Marhyde 48000 - $16. 40.



Dan
 
OK, Got the rivets. Now, does the small palstic inner fender to the rear of well come out first or are you guys leaving it in and going over it??
 
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