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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) finally figured out torque unlock issue!!!!!!!!!!

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Guys ,i have been having an issue with torque coming unlocked whenever i hit a bump for a long time checked the break pedal etc. but i finally figured it out ,this info may be valuable for someone in future. while under my truck this weekend i saw the ABS wire goin to my dana 70 and descided to unplug it just to try something else and it worked my torque hasn`t sliped since!. must be something loose in the axle telling the computer that the brake is applied ,i dunno but its gone !!!!

Now if someone could tell me how to get ride of that ugly ABS/Park brake light thats staying on in my dash, any ideas? thanks
 
I guess you don't need a speedometer either. A varying speed can unlock or kick down the transmission. Maybe the contacts need a good cleaning and some dielectric grease.
 
thanks , would there be a fuse for the abs or a wire or any way to get those lights to go out in the dash? i tried putting a piece of wire across the 2 wires in the connector but that didn`t work.

Yea, i was ready to get a new transmission the truck has 285000 klms but i`m glad it was just the abs system. well if i can`t find a way to get those ugly lights out i`ll just stick some black tape over the glass in the dash so i can`t see them ha ha ha ha
 
put a new sensor in the d70. they dont cost much and i had to replace mine one time when i was having shifting problems with my truck... .



just think if you replace it everything will work like its intended to...
 
Thanks, where can i get this sensor is it a Mopar product or can i get an aftermarket one?



from dodge would be the best place i would think thats where i got mine. i think if i remember right its a 10mm bolt with a clip that hold it in place. it might screw in. i can not recall for sure. but i do remember it only taking a few min to change...
 
THANK YOU FOR THIS POST !!! I have tried everything to solve this problem and this has finally fixed it. I have had the lock/unlock problem for about 2 months now and tried everything from the suncoast rewire to the bd diode filter to replacing the tps to reflashing the pcm and none have helped. My truck has been almost non driveable till now. I unplugged the sensor on the axle today when I got home and my truck hasnt drove this great in a long time. To all you guys out there who have this same problem and have tried everything else... you need to see if this is your fix. This sensor is a cheap part compared to a new pcm which is what i was fixing to replace next. Its right on top of the differential. I really hope this helps someone as much as it did me... tdr saves the day once again... thanks!
 
wow, thats great to know that it fixed youir problem too!!!!!!!!!!

i was accepting the fact that i had to buy a new transmission! i have posted this on this site several times before (the problem that is) a few guys suggested the brake pedal but that wasn`t it. i got under my truck this weekend to check the rear disk brakes for wear and saw the ABS wire and just for the hell off it i unhooked the wire. well i was so delighted to have my torque converter back. Ddi you replace the sensor or just unplug it like i did?

i will get a new sensor but i`ll never trust the bugger again.

i wonder if all that torque slipping or comming unlocked has damaged the torque in any way? thanks
 
yeah just unplugged it for now... i will probably get a new sensor at some point. Im just glad to have my truck running right again finally. i drove mine like that for about two months and I always turned overdrive off so it wouldnt burn up the od clutches which are usually the first ones to get fried.
 
i don`t totally understand how a torque works really, when its slipping like when idleing in drive,are there clutches that are wearing a little or is it just the fact that there isn`t enough line pressure to enguage the clutches?

when i was hitting the bumps and my rpms were going up by 300-800 rpms was something getting worn or damaged?
 
i don`t totally understand how a torque works really, when its slipping like when idleing in drive,are there clutches that are wearing a little or is it just the fact that there isn`t enough line pressure to enguage the clutches?
when i was hitting the bumps and my rpms were going up by 300-800 rpms was something getting worn or damaged?

read this and you should understand it.
Goerend Transmission Incorporated

and here is a video, he does a decent job of explaining it
YouTube - how automobile torque converters work

hope it helps!
 
thanks that info was very interesting i now have a clear mental picture of how it all works, Do many guys upgrade the torque without upgrading the transmission too?
 
thanks that info was very interesting i now have a clear mental picture of how it all works, Do many guys upgrade the torque without upgrading the transmission too?



i would say they prob upgrade the torque converter and valve body. but to answer your question yes. I chose to replace the entire trans because i am trying to reach a 500 to 600 hp mark so the stock one would not be very reliable.
 
Need Help. I've had the DTT noise filter for several years in my 99, every once and a while the torque convertor would start jumping in and out of lockout, I knew it was time to clean my battery terminals and check grounds, that would cure the problem, well torque convertor been jumping in and out for the last two days, no time to work on her as I've been working O. T. , well last night on the way home trans woulld not upshift in 3rd or O. D. , today cleaned the grounds and battery, reset the APPS to . 498 volts, and still same problem, no upshifting, 1st and 2nd are fine, no problem with overheating or anything like that, fuild looks good and is clean, any help would be appreciated
 
What is the purpose of the sensor you unplugged? I am a bit confused on why the ABS brakes have a sensor at the rear diff.
 
hi, there is a whole book of reading on this site about your problem, there have been many so called fixes but it always seems to come back. do a search in 2nd gen and read all day. have you tried unplugging your abs sensors?
 
the sensor ,i think is hooked to some sort of ring in the axle that pulsates the brake pedal when the abs is applied, i think its bull ha ha ha ha if i could find a way to get that brake light and abs light to go out in my dash id unhook all the sensors.
 
the sensor ,i think is hooked to some sort of ring in the axle that pulsates the brake pedal when the abs is applied, i think its bull ha ha ha ha if i could find a way to get that brake light and abs light to go out in my dash id unhook all the sensors.



there is a ring on the carrier. it only activates the abs if it suddenly stops. it will know that the truck is not moving because of the abs sensors on the front 2 wheels. if they are all still it knows that the truck is not moving. i can tell you that if by some misfortune you need the rear abs you will be glad its there. my truck is about to be 10 yrs old and it saved my but 1 time and it is worth it for me to keep it working.
 
The ABS sensor on the rear diff measures the rotation of the ring gear. That gets converted to speed and if it stops rotating means both rear wheels have stopped. Rams use a 3 circuit ABS (one on each front wheel hub and one for the rear) for their 4-wheel ABS. The standard rear wheel ABS has a single circuit for the rear wheels.
 
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