Here I am

FINALLY got a 'real' clutch

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Ripleys Believe it or Not: New Submission

10K Blues (low power problem)

Status
Not open for further replies.
I'm happy to finally have my JD Sachs installed. The engagement is very 'digital'. The term 'slip' is not in the vocabulary of this clutch.

Some driving modification will be needed to perfect using this clutch. Not a complaint, just an education! If you don't bring up the rpm on a downshift, you will 'feel' the pain as the drivetrain is slammed by the clutch.

My only complaint? I finally get to feel all the power which has been escaping on the tach. Now I want more!! #ad
#ad
#ad


[This message has been edited by David_VT (edited 05-02-2001). ]
 
One of those got slipped BIG TIME last weekend.
Prolly the driver.
You will find David,that it will get HARDER to get right as it wears in.
Still waiting to test mine at the pulling track.
Gene

------------------
1997 Cummins Dodge 4x4 "One Piece At A Time" Bombed & Amsoiled. Amsoil Premiere Direct Jobber, Member of: NRA Business Alliance, GLTDR, WANTED: Wrecked Dodges.
www.awdist.com
 
Yeah it did Gene - but it ain't slippin now! I was trying to do a brake torque burnout for the first time not in a bleach box with my ladder bars and I also had just adjusted my rear brakes before towing through the mountains. No way it's slipping now though - that slip seated it REAL good! After leaving that parking lot the clutch was totally like a light switch - either locked up solid or completely released. This is exactly why I got the clutch I did - once I slipped it it's hooking up harder than it did before - gotta LOVE that!

------------------
-Steve St. Laurent - President of the Great Lakes TDR
'98 QC LB (CMNSPWR), 4x4, ISB, 5sp, 4. 10 LSD, TST Powermax3, 275hp RV injectors, Joe Donnelly modifed Sachs Clutch, SS ladder bars, SW fuel pressure gauge, BD exhaust brake, Isspro turbo temp monitor, front Draw-Tite receiver, rear Draw-Tite class V receiver, BFG 285/75R16 AT KO's, (all the common stuff clipped)

[This message has been edited by Steve St. Laurent (edited 05-02-2001). ]
 
I am still amazed by two features of the Sachs/brass clutch: (1) even after extensive slipping like taking off in 2nd every time with lots of rpm, after 15,000 miles the wear was very minimal, maybe 0. 0005-0. 001" on the iron surfaces and maybe 0. 001-0. 002" on the brass surfaces; (2) the clutch holds all the power I have been able to produce so far (around 1400 ft lb). I have slipped the dyno brake, but the clutch held at full power dragging down the engine with the dyno! I have not heard of any other clutch, streetable or not, that could hold under such power and load. Usually either the load is much less or traction is imperfect to ease the load on the clutch. That dyno-drag is far more than even a heavy trailer would do to the clutch.

Now I have to find more hp for Sickly to "test" the clutch some more #ad
Gotta keep my clutch man worried #ad


[This message has been edited by Joseph Donnelly (edited 05-03-2001). ]
 
Slip? Did it once, months ago, when trying a 3rd gear launch. (Man, them Michelins stick like glue, especially with 4 of 'em out back)but since then, the clutch has held everything I can throw at it on the dragstrip, and towing boats and cars. No more slip. The axle wrap is getting ferocious, though, gotta get me some of Steve's ladder bars before I break something!

------------------
Tom
Secretary of the Great Lakes Turbo Diesel Registry GLTDR B. A. D. Boys
 
Well it's about time. Been listening to David whinnnnnnne and whinnnne about clutches for a year now. #ad
I can't use my box cuzzz my clutch is slipping, I can't get on it or my clutch will slip, my clutch is slipping waaa. #ad

Now I guess we'll have to listen to him brag about the new one #ad
My cluuuutch doesn't slliip. #ad
#ad




[This message has been edited by JNutter (edited 05-02-2001). ]
 
Joe, aren't dyno drags in the front of the truck and 20 to 30 thousand pound trailers in the back of the truck on upgrades? Do you think this makes a difference?

[This message has been edited by South Bend Clutch (edited 05-02-2001). ]

[This message has been edited by South Bend Clutch (edited 05-02-2001). ]
 
I've got to ask the question? Explain the theory and physics behind just what makes a clutch slip and the effect it has on the transmission and rest of drivetrain. Hope this doesn't sound to amateurish, cuz it probably is? Thanks.

John

------------------
1999 Dodge Ram 3500 Quad Cab 2wd; 5 spd; 4:10 LSD rear; Mag-Hytec differential cover; US Gear EGT and Boost gauges. Stewart Warner Fuel Pressure Gauge with dual senders, Westach Oil Temp Gauge for differential. Amsoil foam air filter and synthetics in the motor and differential. Cummins Power, don't leave home without it
 
JNutter & ALL,
I owe you a little apology for my excessive whinning. I realize it has been in my posts way too much.

My only excuse was hanging out with those California hot rodders and then having to come home to my slipping diesel. Had I never taken a ride in HVAC or MY6's rigs, I'd never have had all this power envy.

AH well, on to boosting about improved power!

YEEEEEEE HAAAAAAAA

Joe D. has done right by me. That is my story and I will stick with it. #ad
#ad




------------------
99' SB 4x4 : DDI's, HOT PE, JD SACHS Clutch, SPA dual gauge, ESPAR, Line-X OTR, Ladder bars, AMSOIL, etc
Green Monster
 
Duh!! #ad
Never mind. I got it. I was thinking it was the opposite of what it actually is. #ad


[This message has been edited by John Berger (edited 05-03-2001). ]
 
Torque makes a clutch slip. Since we never seem to have "too much torque" we just have "too little clutch" #ad


>>Joe, aren't dyno drags in the front of the truck and 20 to 30 thousand pound trailers in the back of the truck on upgrades? Do you think this makes a difference?<<

Peter, I think you misunderstood. The truck is strapped down with the rear wheels on the 4' diameter dyno roller. The roller has an aggressive surface to prevent tire slip. Normally one accelerates in a gear and the dyno measures the acceleration time to calculate horsepower and torque. The 4' diameter roller also has a very large brake used to add "load" so one can do testing at a constant rpm under full power [such as jetting a carburetor for a Winston Cup car or something]. This brake can also be used to retard acceleration or drag down the engine if the braking force is greater than the engine's horsepower.

In the situation I was discussing, Lawrence took the engine to 2000 rpm and applied full power while the brake dragged down the engine's rpm (that is, the roller resisted turning and the engine was connected to the rear tires on the roller). That way he could build full boost and power before starting data acquisition for a power run. This is like having a monster trailer dragging the truck back down the mountain, one so heavy that the engine cannot even hold its rpm under full accelerator pedal. Well, we saw 60 psi boost for the first time (only get 43 psi on power runs), and the dyno brake couldn't quite hold the engine back. The engine made over 600 hp and 1400 ft lb at the time.

Rammers, try this sometime if you think you have a clutch that will hold everything ya got! [But don't blame me if you smoke the clutch #ad
]

[This message has been edited by Joseph Donnelly (edited 05-03-2001). ]
 
OK, first complaint #ad

From the wife:

That darn truck is digging a trench in our nice gravel driveway!!

Seems I have not yet figured out how to launch the sticky Sachs without throwing gravel from the rear tires. #ad
#ad
 
"FINALLY got a 'real' clutch"

Me too, only mine is spelled differently !

------------------
2001 QC SLT SWB ETH 6SP JRE Spa Fabritech Bosch Edge
South Bend
 
Life is tough in Vermont #ad


------------------
White 2001 QuadCab 2500 Laramie SLT, HO 6-speed, 3. 54 limited slip, Mopar exhaust brake, towing/camper options, Turbo liner, Grover Air Horns (not yet installed), 275 injectors w/ PS boost module.
 
How does the pedal pressure compare to a stock clutch? As I have mentioned in a couple of other topics, I never had a problem with a clutch, even in 2 Ton trucks, until I bought my 98 Ram. Because the swing bar extends up from the pedal at a positive angle (angles towards my leg instead of away from it), it has caused some painful problems with my foot. If I put my foot where it should be, the bar forces my toes to curl back. If I use my toes, they get very sore.

I would like a good clutch that has less pedal pressure than the stock one. I think it would be possible if the leverage is different in the clutch plate. What is Sachs like?


------------------
98. 5 24V QC 4x4 SB 3:54 5sp
 
Not sure I follow your description, but here goes.

I notice that at the top of the down swing I feel some very slightly stronger resistance which quickly falls off to slightly less than OEM resistance.

On the upswing, nothing happens until near the top of the stroke. At that point all hell breaks loose and the truck is moving!!! #ad
#ad
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top