Here I am

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) finally got around to moving the stock plate forward

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission paint for valve cover

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Isspro EV pyrometer

Status
Not open for further replies.
on my truck and woohoo that's a little spiceyer improvement then i was expecting, i pushed it full forward and on the first test drive i could of blocked out the sun with my dual exhaust Oo. unfortunately for him there was a later ford diesel behind me when i got on it, just about anybody was going to get hammered as i had straight clear road infront of me but hey, what better thing to soot :-laf the afc was all of the way slack and forward, before with it like that id get one puff if i stomped it off the line and it'd clear up totally with boost maxing out at around 29# climbing the big mississippi river bridge in 5th just before the pump started defueling around 2800-2900, now i can hit 30# at around 2500 rpm in the same place and i think egts are cooler now then when the plate was in stock position, i haven't driven it enough yet to say but i wasn't hitting 1200* flogging through the gears, i put several turns on the star wheel and it needs a couple more to ice the indiscriminate sooting when going through the gears in traffic but woohoo #ad
 
Last edited:
Yes I measured mine at 1/16 back it's excellent if all the way forward it seems to lack some same thing on my dad's 97 that is still stock.
 
i thought that was only applicable to aftermarket plates with a deep profile or am i wrong?, this things not over fueling my hx35 once it spools up (which is pretty quick with the ats and straight pipe, probably why my egts are not too bad) 30# with unhooked wastegate at 2500 rpm in 5th climbing a hill, next mod will probably be a 3kgsk as it gets into defueling even faster now in the low gears, at that point ill see where the hx35 stands and weather to get a better hair drier or some better injectors, maybe some ddp 2's and ditch the 330 marines, still trying to figure out when i need to give sbc a call and get a real clutch on the way, i don't want to spring for a #10 plate and fry the clutch the next day
 
I think it applies to stockers too, not totally sure though.



What do you think of the 330 injectors? I think they're the same family as the 300 and 370s so I'm guessing they're a bit smokey. I have 300s in my '98 which are 4-hole injectors. Not much smoke with stock plate but will probably do DDP 2s next when I'm ready to do more power (after doing something with the stock auto).
 
i've had them for over 10k miles and they seem to be fine, i got them as a cheep replacement for the nasty 160s that the goober i bought the truck from put in inplace of the stock 215s trying to diagnose a fuel system lack of pressure/air leak and timing way the hell off starting problem, nearly clean idle (cold too) and what (little when hot out) smoke at wot there was got cleaned up with the addition of a good exhaust, i think i paid $335 delivered on ebay for them with a install kit included (didn't come with the super thin washers, but those came in the head set when i fixed the obligatory leaking from the front corner high mileage coolant leak) i flog it pretty hard and get a hair under 17 mpg which i consider pretty good compared to what id get flogging a gasser. towing this, grand dads f350 camper special

#ad


back from winchester va at 70 mph with the ac on i got between 12 and 14. 5 depending on hills and the worst egts got was 1350 on the worst hill of the trip nothing else really got it much over 1200, which was pulled at 70 almost the whole way up till i had to slow down for a maxipad towing what looked like about a two ton bumper pull travel trailer, once he got out of the way i burped the throttle and gave him a nice puff as i blew by :-laf
 
another thing about the 330s, with them the ats manifold timing at 16. 5 and a bhaf i pulled 248 hp on the dynojet at a local free diesel event, with about a half dead lift pump, it would idle at 20 or so but just barely touch the smoke pedal and it'd drop like a rock, the new pump after it broke in idles a little over 20 but holds 30 or so wot and gave a bit more power, so the 330s must be worth a few ponys over stock
 
i have read about some people saying that they make more power with a plate a little back from full forward, i am not sure if this is a function of too much rack travel putting the barrels in a less efficient position or too bloody much fuel drowning the engine :-laf i've never really seen it talked about with lightly bombed trucks more from the smoke belching monsters, but i could be wrong, it's happened before :D



Forrest Nearing said:
can you please explain your logic here? :confused:
 
Forrest Nearing said:
can you please explain your logic here? :confused:



Just going by what I was told by a pump shop, and what I've seen posted a number of times on TDR. Would be interesting to confirm or deny it and the reasons why. Maybe it wasn't a reason for power but for drivability or maybe the governor arm doesn't contact the entire face of the plate running through the RPM range?



Vaughn
 
foot to the floor from a stop 1-4 or 2-5 depending how you look at it, it gets to 1200 around 75 mph, but just rolling on it hard it doesn't get that warm
 
how do you get to the plate? is it easy or do you have to have a lot of special tools? I want to see what plate my truck has and possibly move it forward if not already and maybe mess with the timming a little bit. Any info is appriciated, thanks.
 
When I had the #0 plate in & the pump removed & tweaked upon, the pump guru next door to PDR set it for 19. 8mm of rack travel to max out the fuel. He got somewhere in the mid 400cc's of fuel. Was it 440 or 480 ... can't remember. Anywho, could have been set for more rack travel as there was still plenty of sliding room left, but it wasn't in favor of the max setting. :cool:



Sliding the stock plate all the way forward is good for 40 to 60hp in the 215 pump according to TST a while ago. That's a :cool: 100+ ft-lbs ... for free. :)
 
CRohwedder said:
how do you get to the plate? is it easy or do you have to have a lot of special tools? I want to see what plate my truck has and possibly move it forward if not already and maybe mess with the timming a little bit. Any info is appriciated, thanks.



Ck out the TST page:



http://www.tstproducts.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=119



Scroll down & there's another link to the instructions.



Good luck ... slide away!!! :D
 
Last edited by a moderator:
the usual warning about having the proper gauges before doing power mod's is in place, you can burn up something if you don't know what your exhaust temp is doing or blow a head gasket/tear up a turbo if you let boost get out of control



heres the link at the bottom of the tst page in case you didn't catch it



http://www.tstproducts.com/INSRUCT98.pdf
 
i had guessed i was around 275-300 hp and suspect i am about at the limit of my stock clutch, no problems yet but i hardly ever get to pull anything



Forrest said:
Sliding the stock plate all the way forward is good for 40 to 60hp in the 215 pump according to TST a while ago. That's a :cool: 100+ ft-lbs ... for free. :)
 
CRohwedder said:
how do you get to the plate? is it easy or do you have to have a lot of special tools? I want to see what plate my truck has and possibly move it forward if not already and maybe mess with the timming a little bit. Any info is appriciated, thanks.

If you get into the pump,Make sure you make a scribe line where the stock plate is. That way any tinkering your doing, You know where you started at.

Most fuel plates were designed to run in the stock position
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top