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Finding the limits of the GM 6.2/6.5 Diesel

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Tuesdak

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I am well qualified to bash these engines so no further need to do so. They are throwaway engines that are still in production, due to military need, with no less than 2 re-designs to fix GM's bean counter problems. Cracking blocks at the mains, head cracking, miserable cooling in the 90's body style (Worse in the Hummers) cast cranks to please bean counters that fail if the damper on the engine fails...

Unlike a Cummins rebuild being near $10,000 I can get a low mile military surplus 6.2 longblock for around $2000, an improved Optimizer 6.5 military surplus for around $3500. A brand new improved 6.5 Optimizer longblock is $7250. Clearly it's more fun with the budget engine where the pain isn't so high when it goes "BOOM!".

It wasn't so much the continued lack of power from NA 6.2 engines as 6.5 turbo versions that still lacked power with the lack of fuel economy turbo'd that turned me to the darkside to see what you could really get out of these engines. Getting more power and going from 7.5 MPG to 10.4 MPG towing was a welcome surprise. In depth for those interested: http://www.maxxtorque.com/2012/07/the-65l-diesel-factory-equipped-asthma.html

More or less a huge turbo that doesn't light till 2000 RPM, 2400 stall RPM Yank converter, but limited fuel by running mostly maxed out 6.2 pumps that have smaller plungers than a 6.5 pump. I have a Moose Jr pump to run now. Still reaching for a bit of sanity because I could have cone with a much bigger Moose pump. It's now a fun truck. Stock 6.5TD's are a total dog and worse towing. 6.2NA's can't get out of their own way, period.

Bigger turbo:

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Vid with a smoke free 6.2 pump:



Due to a SNAP emissions test where you floor it in park and hold the engine on the governor to measure smoke a total of 4 times on a good day, more if they have trouble, I had the privilege of watching my hot-rod 6.2 commit suicide when the IP governor failed and let the engine rev out to 4200 RPM way past it's 3600 RPM redline. Luck: it just bent valves and didn't blow up. Hindsight being 20/20 and all. I first replaced the IP and then the hi-pop injectors. Still wouldn't hardly accelerate. Advanced timing to get it to start and run till I could figure it out. Later A compression test showed that the valves were all hammered from overspeed.

Not so clear as to what is wrong:



You can hear some of the problem just cranking (electric fan in background to help AC):



Compression test, min 320.

1) 320 2) 260
3) 300 4) 200
5) 260 6) 260
7) 300 8) 260

Due to headstuds in wet holes sealed with RED threadlocker I pulled the engine to do head work. It's a 1993 so not that much hooked up to it. And I needed to change a bad engine mount ruined from biodiesel leaking on it.

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On teardown:

Hammered exhaust valve tip

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All 8 piston crowns have surface cracking (eroded glow plugs indicate too much timing).

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Clear that a valve is tapping a piston:

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And this is why, of course, the broken spring is on the high compression hole:

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Further Uh-Ho on a cam lobe:

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Cracked head - extends through the cracked valve seat:

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Biodiesel is nasty stuff. An injector line leak ruined this new engine mount. It's jelly soft now.

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Detail of non-coated 6.2 piston, yes those are Totalseal Gapless rings that kept the oil very clean as you can see in the teardown pics:

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Tired of the bean counter Cheap chain design that has a slop limit of 0.8". The IP pulses stretches the chain out. So aftermarket gear drive.

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Wiped lobe on cam.

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Oil pump ate it:

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Precups crack on a stock engine. Burned through a crack (NA 6.5 precups shown. I need to use diamond turbo precups.

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3 of 5 main webs in the block have the typical web cracks on the outer bolt holes rendering this block scrap metal.

Oil indicates a crack #2 main, and with Gapless rings this trick of soot outlined cracks isn't working as well as it has in the past.

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Cracked both sides down to the cylinder relief #4 main. (#3 crack wasn't playing nice with camera.)

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Looks like the old Pete Jackson gear drive for a SB Chebby.
Cast crank? For real?
I’ve heard rumors about the poor military maintainers going insane keeping those H1’s running. I guess there’s some truth.
Anything can be made to run with the correct rework.
 
Looks like the old Pete Jackson gear drive for a SB Chebby.
Cast crank? For real?
I’ve heard rumors about the poor military maintainers going insane keeping those H1’s running. I guess there’s some truth.
Anything can be made to run with the correct rework.
I saw more than one snap the crank right at the outboard end of the front main. Few companies have done more to harm the rep of diesel power than GM.

JDoremire. I like your realistic approach to this project!
 
If I was to come across a clean 1500 chebby (original diesel) I’d seriously consider throwing an Optimizer in it. I always liked my dads old 2500 with a 6.5 T as it was excellent on fuel....unless it was towing. Great grocery getter.
 
I had two 6.5s in 3/4tons they where great for what they were. Highway mileage was great compared to a 350, was it as good as the 12 valves cummins, no. Power wise it was good enough up to about 45 towing afterwards it would fall on its face. I would tow 30k pounds of hay around the farms all day long with no issues and cold air. Most of it was just idling around and under 1500rpm.
 
These old trucks help each other out.

File photo of this old truck hauling a NV5600 out of a Dodge to Standard Trans and Gear in Tucson.

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Dodge picking up a V8 6.2 Diesel for Christmas.

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Yes, I get to open up my present and that's more than just the box...

I had Ted's Trucks N Stuff link , a military surplus outfit, open this one up to verify it was standard size (not punched out oversize pistons) and no cracks in the mains. They also installed Diamond Turbo precups vs. the smaller NA precups for me. Compression is ~550 - a big improvement over the old shot engine. I am going to swap pistons with coated ones from Twisted Steel Performance. Link to Twisted Steel Performance. 6.2 pistons were not coated, but, turbo 6.5 pistons do have a OEM top thermal barrier coating.

Twisted Steel Performance Coated 6.2 Pistons should help keep oil and ring temps down. Thermal barrier top coating and dry film lube skirt coating. (Torched Well done piston on the left of course.)

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Replacement Military Surplus engine opened up. Luck. These are 6.5 heads with revised injector angles. So I can use the heads that came with the engine. Older 6.2 heads don't clear the turbo manifold well. (I have used 6.2 heads before...)

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Little trouble with Fel-Pro Head gaskets. I think these are cardboard knock-offs. :p

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Glow plugs SUCK! Again tossing these pistons so NBD.

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Precups, a forgotten art except for some with Mercedes Diesels. 6.2 left and 6.5 right NA Precups vs. the latest Diamond precups installed. Yes these heads will be rebuilt with new valves as, yes, that one is funky.
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I see the definition of insanity playing out here! ;)

Good luck sir...

Technically this is a "Expensive Hobby" at this point. Lots of Dad-Son and other family time has gone into major work on this in the past. Stripped the interior cab bare at one time, swapped beds and doors. I think I have touched every single nut and bolt on this thing: some more than once.

2010-2011 rebuild, powertrain swap pictured, after getting a couple Elk at 50+MPH towing.

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Now I respectfully submit there is a new definition of "Insanity" out there that simply makes this a hobby. If I ever have to open up the 2003 Cummins of mine again I would be coating the heads and pistons with the thermal barriers. Coating the prechambers to keep the heat out of the cooling system on an IDI engine is something I have always wanted to see done. 18:1 custom pistons, thermal barrier coatings everywhere it makes sense, and head porting on a P400 6.5 engine... Well I suggest that is "insanity" vs. the little hobby on mine. :D

Pictures from Twisted Steel Performance LLC

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For those that may wonder I present a Light Duty 6.2 IDI Diesel VS. a Cummins DI 5.9. I have gone through both in the past few years...

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More parts are arriving. Like the rebuilt heads from the machine shop. New valves and new springs on heads from the military surplus engine I got. They put the tubes in the head coolant passages between the valves to prevent common GM cast head cracks between the valves from hitting the coolant. The hex head plugs shown replace the standard freeze plugs after that procedure is done.

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I will have to take the replacement engine block to the machine shop for new cam bearings as on tear down inspection I found a cracked cam bearing. Set of main, rod and cam bearings, HV oil pump and new camshaft should complete the stuff I need to build it. The Rod and Main bearings are "Select fit" with some bearing shells different sizes to keep the crankshaft straight and tight clearances. For example all the main bearings are 0.013 mm Undersize with one top shell in the #1 at 0.026 mm undersize. Connecting rods are all standard size except for the #1 and #2 that have a bottom bearing shell that are 0.026mm undersize. ( 0.026mm = 0.0010" )

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Reactions: JR
Looking great JD. Please don't take offense at my attempt at a humorous comment - it was intended as a compliment. I understand how fast the ball can get rolling on these types of projects. My aspirations of restoring a 52 year old Japanese vehicle have raised more than a few eyebrows... until I explain the history of said vehicle and the nostalgia that rides along with it. You mention spending time with your son on this one, these types of projects are tough to put a price on.
Keep at it!
 
Looking great JD. Please don't take offense at my attempt at a humorous comment - it was intended as a compliment. I understand how fast the ball can get rolling on these types of projects. My aspirations of restoring a 52 year old Japanese vehicle have raised more than a few eyebrows... until I explain the history of said vehicle and the nostalgia that rides along with it. You mention spending time with your son on this one, these types of projects are tough to put a price on.
Keep at it!

No offense taken. I thought the humorous comment of yours was appropriate to quote in context of 'the next level' that some apply to "forgotten diesels". I had the expensive hobby applied to it the other day as a point of fact that we don't use it commercially anymore and don't need it running for tomorrow's delivery run. (We retired from parts and RV delivery long ago. This pickup truck did both.)

I posted the trip to NM long ago where A buddy picked up a Dodge Charger and when it turned out to be a "K car"... Yeah: eyebrows raised. He couldn't get all the parts it needed for the interior, parted it out to others restoring K Cars, and got a "Little Red Express" With Factory AC that doesn't need much work.

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180k my 6.2 broke a couple valve springs, was talked into a new GM 6.5 long block. I had already added the Banks turbo kit. Installed new 6.5 injectors and built pump to 6.5 turbo specs. Towed very light 5er rarely. Used truck for a 30-60 each way commute. Bottom line GM replaced that engine three times. Last engine "SOUNDED" like it should with no odd sounds. Unfortunately after around 200k Daughter ran to out of water!

Cracked blocks, two the water disappeared and one water in oil. After 3rd engine the Dealer accused me of having too much fuel. I told them to contact the Pump builder as they tuned to factory specs.

All I can say is I am glad it's GONE!!! Pic of dumping it at it's new home.

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I bought a Chevy Suburban.......late 80's if my memory serves correctly, from a GSA auction when I lived in Ketchikan for 255.00. It was all I had in my bank account. It had a brand new 6.2 from GM installed by the dealer. Only had 12k miles on it, 4x4 and a horrible grey paint job that was missing every inch of clear coat. I drove it for about 6 months until I transferred and sold it for 3500.00 to some guy that thought it was the perfect tow rig for his boat. It probably was the perfect tow rig for Ketchikan considering there were only about 32 miles of roads and no real highway speeds that needed to be attained. It was the epitome of gutless. But still it was one of my better financial investments! :D
 
So with the above cracked cam bearing military take out engine I was sent another engine for warranty. It turned out to be a burned out scrap metal boat anchor. By the 1990's production date IMO it served in Dessert Storm. I hope it brought our boys home.

Gotta hand it to the Military. I asked Dad why the Military could hurt a 6.2 worse than "we" did. Simple answer. "When you are under fire and waiting for the steel rain to arrive Everything Is Expendable!" Also the cooling systems on the Military Hummers are horrible with the angled radiator and run these engines hot.

Wasn't easy due to sentimental value, but, I gave up and parted the truck out as I have a perfect set of rebuilt heads and NOTHING TO BOLT THEM ON! :mad:

I had prior luck a decade ago with 6.2's out of CUCV's (1980's Blazers or 1 1/4 ton pickups or R/V series). My luck with used Hummer engines now is zero.

Autopsy of 2nd Junk engine I was sent for warranty.

Scored cam bearings

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Debris in the oil galleries on top of the lifters

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Scored up lifters

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Scored up Rollers

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Yeah...

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Valve tapping piston

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Heat damage distortion on #8

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Heat damage distortion on #7 (The lighter colored patch)

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Cylinder scoring

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No point in pulling the bottom end...

This engine had a typical example of "Timing Chain Stretch" due to Shock Loading from the Injection Pump Pulses delivering fuel. Put an new chain on and in 30 K miles it gets sloppy. Timing adjustments are called for every 6 months on a 6.2. Every bean counter should have to watch this and see the carnage delivered to the valve train from it. Yeah Stupid Bean Counters... it's called history repeating itself: Don't drive the IP off a chain like the Olds 5.7 Diesel attempted and 6.2/6.5 continued. IMO The Cummins 5.0 was an avoid it value engineered engine due to things like a chain driving the injection pump:







Reference pic hammered exhaust valve tip from sloppy timing chains posted above (Note ARP aftermarket studs not OEM TTY head bolts.):

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