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Fire extinguisher recommendations???

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Dry Chemical extinguishers are your best bet.

Get one with a multi-purpose dry chemical for class A, B, and C fires.



Dont get the "multi-purpose or dry chemical" confused with "dry compound".

Dry compound extinguishers are for combustible metal fires.



Classes:



A= ordinary combustibles

B= flammable liquids

C= electrical equipment

D= combustible metals



A local fire protection business can get you a good extinguisher for your truck at a reasonable price. You can even get a cover for protection from the elements.



Ansul makes a great extinguisher for mobile situations.



Just a quick hint: If you discharge the extinguisher at any time to check the operation, even if you just let a little out... . eventually the seal will leak the pressure out. Guys do this alot and say " I just checked it out" what happens is the chemical is holding the seal open just a little and it lets the pressure out.



good luck



Don~
 
Brand: name AMEREX.

Type: although not my preference Dry Powder is the best choice.

Size: 5lb Most places will try to sell you a smaller one, but you basicly get only one good shot with them. A 5lb will give you a second chance if something goes wrong.

Dry powder extinguishers are also known as A B C extinguishers. No, not because they are so easy to use, because those are the classes of fires that they will extinguish - ordinary combustables, flamable liquids, and electrical. So you can see why these are so popular, they will take care of most situations safley. Go ahead and get a good one as they are refillable and can be used over and over again. Let's hope you don't have to. It will have to be inspected and serviced periodicly. Lastly a word of warning, and the reason I don't like using dry powder. It is a very fine powder and if you discharge it in a house you can go two rooms away and write your name on the furnature. It is MESSY ! It is really hell on computers and electronics too, But if you need it use it ,it works.



Now you know why my wife never asks me simple questions any more:D

Fireman
 
Use Don M's post for the type of extinguisher but be aware that the number in front of the letter notes the emount of fire the extinguisher is rated to put out IE: 4A 40BC is rated to put out out 2 squ. feet of an A type fire or 40 squ. feet of a BC type fire. The numbers not the size determines the emount of fire the extinguisher will put out and the Letter notes the type of fire the extinguisher is designed to extinguish.
 
Correction a 4A 40BC rating will put out 4 squ/feet of an A type fire and 40 squ/feet of a BC type fire. Sorry, fingers must not be working too well.
 
fireman56 brings up a good point in saying the extinguisher should be tested and refilled periodically.

There are no laws or codes to make you do it in your private vehicle though. Just a good common sense axiom.

I would suggest yearly.



I disagree with "dry powder" being the agent you should use.

The proper wording is "dry chemical". This happens alot. Not a big deal but, if you ask for a dry powder (generally sodium chloride)extinguisher from a fire protection business... you could end up with an extinguisher for combustible metal fires that will be marginal at best for class A, B, and C fires.



I think fireman56 is on the right track is saying you need an extinguisher for A, B, and C fires... he just has the terminology wrong.



"Dry chemical" is what ya want!





Too bad the C02 carbon dioxide extinguishers are not for class A fires... they are great for chilling warm beer on a hot day... hehehe!



Don~
 
Rivrunr is correct... the classifications are from UL and ULC.

The only dry chem for A, B. and C fire is ammonium phosphate.



A small 5 pound extinguisher will give you 10 seconds of extinguishing time. Not much to me.



I like the 10 pounder.



Don~
 
Originally posted by Don M



Too bad the C02 carbon dioxide extinguishers are not for class A fires... they are great for chilling warm beer on a hot day... hehehe!



Don~



I'm not sure CO2 extinguishers are available at all nowadays, if they are they have fallen out of favor. CO2 would be my first choice though, they are the best for stopping engine run on.
 
oh yeah, you can get C02 extinguishers all over.

You may be thinking of halogenated agents such as 1301 and 1211.

Montreal Protocol (treaty)started doing away with halons in 91.



C02 is still commonplace



Don~
 
When you go to get the extinguisher, make SURE to get one with a metal valve assembly. You may have to go to a fire protection company to get it.



#1 it can be filled if and when you use it.



#2 the valve is not as likely to just spontaneously blow off or break off if dropped. I have seen a plastic valve extinguisher after the valve blew off (after being serviced). It went across a large shop denting things like a metal truss before expelling its contents.



NOTE both ABC and BC is corrosive. Wash it off immediately after the fire.



The beautiful thing about Halon is it leaves no mess. Unfortunantly it runs about $20/lb now. :(
 
Don M is right about the size. I was in Montana on a business trip about 1 year ago and came upon a Dodge Dakota pickup that had started to burn. The driver had got all his stuff out and was standing there watching the flames get larger. Was burning around the fuel tank. I had a 5# extingisher and hit the flame and thought it was out. It flared back up and I was out of chemical. We stood there and watched it burn completely. If there was a little more chem or if there was another bottle, I think it would have been stopped. :(
 
got halon?

Fire56, Halon seems to be available in CA, I was told that was the one to have. I keep one in the Dodge mostly for good samaritan type stuff.



Will it take care of a "run away"?



Mike



P. S. on dry chem in a vehicle... I was told long ago to turn them upside down once in a while to keep the powder from packing due to the vibration of the vehicle... true?
 
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Corrosive is an understatement

I have to agree with Scot.



The ABC powder is highly corrosive. Use it under the hood and you will wish you had not. I did on a 72 Nova. I still had powder in places you would not believe. Took it through the car wash and all.
 
Ace, U B RIGHT! thats why Halon is my choice of fire getter. Also dry chem can be a PITA, my neighbor rear-ended a car cause it stopped (immediatly) in front of him due to the dust cloud of a dry chem being used by a guy on the side of the freeway... ... insurance co. said it was 100% his fault!



Remember those little carbon tetracloride extinguishers, not as big as a coke can but could whip a good size fire... no more, unhealthy or something.
 
Yes the Halons are still available... Kinda like the R-12 refrigerant trouble. There is an international treaty that bans manufacture of Halongenated agents. But, there are halon banks all over the US that sell halons to the fire protection business. I bought 2000 pounds last year to protect a motor control center. It is very expensive, BTW.



Halon 1301 would be a good choice all around for runaway engines and general "clean agent extinguishing". Keep in mind, Halon does produce a highly toxic chemical gas during decomposition that can kill you. Decomposition occurs at around 900 degrees... it stinks real bad and can serve as a warning to vacate the area after a fire has been extinguished.



Don~
 
I had an old gas truck that caught fire years back. I hit is with a dry powder extinguisher. It took me a couple of weeks to get things cleaned up again. By design the powder stick to anything hot. After that I went out and got a couple of halon extinguishers. Halon is used in the computer and cooking industry because leaves no residual.



A Caution: Halon does not put out fires are well. If used out in a windy road it will not work as well as a dry powder in that the wind will disperse the halon and gratly reduce its ablity to put out the fire.



A couple of other things to KEEP IN MIND:

Dry powder extinguishers tend to pack and when they do they don't work or don't work well. This is especially true in a bouncing vehicle. A couple of fire guys that I have talked to say to turn the extinguisher over and shake it every 3 months.



Extinguishers used commercially (such like those at a place of business) need to be recharged every 7 years whether the dial says it needs it or not. This is at least the law for California.
 
Originally posted by dan_gilson

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A Caution: Halon does not put out fires are well. If used out in a windy road it will not work as well as a dry powder in that the wind will disperse the halon and gratly reduce its ablity to put out the fire.





Dan, I respectfully disagree with you on the effectiveness of Halon. My employer requires that we go through fire control training with all extinguishers they use, Halon seems to work the best. The instructors are L. A. F. D. employees and the fire is a steel pan approx. 4X8' with 5 or so gallons os gasoline in it, the Halon out performs all with a close second done by C02. Just my experience.



And, as a previous post stated it does STINK and is a health hazard.



Mike



We need a FIREMAN here! Lets hear what they have to say on this.
 
Halon 1211 is the standard fire extinguisher on airliners. That's why I have one in my truck. (Two, if you count the tiny one beside my seat, but it's only big enough for a frying pan sized fire. ) The extinguisher cost $100 about 8 years ago. I don't know what they bring now.



Because Halon 1211 is not very effective against class A fires, airliners also carry a water extinguisher. You can put a paper/wood (class A) fire out with Halon, but it might flash back. Halon doesn't cool as long as water does.



They tell us not to use the extinguisher in an enclosed space (like a lavatory) without breathing apparatus.



I used to carry (in the truck) a dry chemical (I think it was sodium bicarbonate) extinguisher as well, but I replaced it with a second Halon unit. The main reason for Halon was its effectiveness as well as the fact that it leaves no residue.



By the way, many dry chemical extinguishers use sodium bicarbonate as the extinguishing chemical. That is baking soda. When I was younger and had no money I made an extinguisher by filling a used dish detergent bottle with baking soda. The idea was to pull the spout and spray. The only times I ever tested it, though, I found that I had to unscrew the top to get enough chemical out. It sure put a fire out though -- and cheap.



I found that even with the bottle of baking soda I had to turn it upside down and shake it every so often to keep the powder loose.



Loren
 
DRY CHEMICAL IS THE WAY TO GO

Actuallty hydrostatic testing is required every 5 years not 7.

Visual inspections should be every 30 days and a yearly empty and refill is required on dry chemical. This is per NFPA10 and only is for buildings. Not vehicles! I personally would use a more stringent time frame.





Halon hand portable extinguishers can be dispersed in a windy environment and were designed for computer room and closed area fire suppresssion.

I picture a guy on the side of the road trying to put out a fire from under his hood or maybe trying to control a fire from a careless camper that has gotten away from him. Halon, in this scenerio, is not the best way to go. Yes, they are clean and they do not make a mess. Halon 1301 has no listing for a class A fire (fires that are ordinary type things such as a grassfire as mentioned above or wood, paper, etc)

The reason the Halon works so well for the pan fire the earlier post talks about is the cooling effect as well as the chemical reaction chain that occurs is broken with Halon.



For all around fire suppression in an automobile situation that can be used on anything from burning fuel to grass fires on the roadside, even electrical fires... . your BEST choice is a Dry Chemical extinguisher in the 10 pound size. Ammonium Phosphate is the chemical!



Don~
 
Loren,



You are correct when you say that 1211 is used in the airline industry. It was developed for military planes way back.

Your 1211 extinguisher is capable of class A fire suppression but it is not as effective as dry chem.



Sodium bicarbonate is not listed for class A fires in hand portables.

Yes, it is baking soda. Of course, the manufactures add other chemicals for stability purposes in the mix.

Even though the baking soda will work for class A fires..... it just isn't the best choice.



The reason "they" dont want you to us the Halon 1211 extinguisher in confined spaces is because the agent will decompose into compounds your body will not like.

Chlorine, Bromine and Hydrogen Floride to name a few that are toxic to us as low as 50 parts per million.



Short story: guy is driving down the road and rear ends a large truck. His vehicle is stuffed under the truck and fuel is leaking. Small fire starts. He is pinned in the vehicle and cannot get out. He has a small dry chem extiguisher next to him. He can reach it and put the fire out. Yes, it stinks and chemical is all over the place.

Same guy does this with a Halon extinguisher and inhales a ton of compounds that are known toxic by products of halon decomposition.

I would rather use dry chem and clean the mess up knowing all I got was dirty.



Halon 1211 is used in the airline industry for engine fire suppression. . Not cabin fire suppression. Normally occupied locations that cannot be vacated such as an aircraft would be dangerous locations to use Halon 1211.



Don~
 
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