First time Poster here...

[Northern Nevada]

Ok 1998 2500 5.9 12 Valve Cummins automatic.

No crank when the key is turned to the start position.
The Fuel cut-off solenoid is getting voltage for the hold circuit but NOT the pull circuit.
I disconnected the harness from the relay and jumped it and the pull circuit does indeed pull the solenoid into the up position and the hold circuit does hold it in place. The vehicle will start if the wire from the starter is touched to the positive terminal of the battery and the vehicle will run as normal.

Where should I look next?

 

[BigPapa]

I’d replace the Starter Relay. It feeds power to the FSD and the Starter. You can swap it out with any of the other large relays to test.

 

[petersonj]

If that doesn't work, I would be looking at a neutral safety switch issue or a transmission linkage adjustment issue for the neutral safety switch. I really don't know much about the 12 valve trucks, but the use of neutral safety switches with automatic transmissions has been around for decades. Have you tried holding the ignition switch in the crank position while slowly moving the transmission gear selector around to see if it will crank?

- John

 

[Northern Nevada]

Ok swapped the starter relay out with the trailer relay and Nothing... When this problem began it acted like a sticking solenoid on the starter and I replaced 1 starter. The second starter still wouldn't start. is there a way to directly test the neutral safety switch with a meter?

In addition to the no crank thing, in the process of troubleshooting this, I've done something worse to the electrical system. NOW the instrument cluster is dead, the alternator is not charging the batteries AND the Torque converter acts like it's not locking up...

Any ideas on that?

 

[petersonj]

I would start with the basics. With the age of your vehicle you need to do a thorough inspection of all the primary cables - both the positive side and the grounded side. This means inspecting the positive and negative connections at both batteries, especially the positive crossover cable and inspecting ground connections on the engine block, frame, and body. You may need to get a wiring diagram to find some of the ground connections.

Check vehicle ground connections with close attention. Poor connections at vehicle grounds are notorious for displaying symptoms like you mention. This is because many seemingly unrelated circuits can have a common ground connection.

Don't just look at connections - take them apart and inspect closely. Wires can be corroded or broken inside the insulation which will not be visible without disconnecting and inspecting.

- John

 

[GAmes]

https://www.cumminsforum.com/threads/fuel-shutdown-solenoid-test.354533/

Note that the '98s may have a fuse for the FSS, the rest of us have a fusible link coming from the battery. It sounds like you need some wire diagrams too. Genos can fix you up with a factory service manual. I prefer the print edition for chasing wires.

https://www.genosgarage.com/product/dfsm98-print/dodgeram-factory-service-manuals

 

[Northern Nevada]

Checked the grounds and they are all showing good continuity. I also ran a wire from the negative battery terminal to the engine block and all of this has solved... Nothing. Still have the exact same problems.

I did replace the connectors on the wire from the battery to the fuse box just because the terminal was a little chewed up. I also took out the fusible link in the fuse box (140Amp) and ohm checked it and it was fine.

Any chance this is PCM related?

 

[GAmes]

I don't see how it could be PCM related. Another reason to get an FSM, it lists all the inputs and outputs.

A fusiible link looks like a piece of wire. There isn't one inside the fuse box. Did you check the fuse shown in the link's diagram?

 

[Timd32]

I would order a FSM.

In the meantime what is the 8th digit of your Vin? I can look up some limited stuff. The version I use is pretty hit and miss at times on my 96.

 

[petersonj]

Checked the grounds and they are all showing good continuity.

I also took out the fusible link in the fuse box (140Amp) and ohm checked it and it was fine.

Checking for the condition of a wiring connection using an ohmmeter does absolutely nothing. All it takes is one strand of wire to make the connection and the ohmmeter will show good continuity. All poor connections have continuity, but more importantly, they have resistance. That resistance is your enemy.

So, I will repeat, take the connections apart and inspect closely. Wires can be corroded or broken inside the insulation which will not be visible without disconnecting and inspecting. A continuity test will not show this.

- John

 

[BigPapa]

In the meantime what is the 8th digit of your Vin?

The '98 12-valve is vin "D", 24-valve is VIN "6".

 

[Timd32]

These should all be in the FSM. It's super nice to have a paper copy on these trucks.

I have taken plastic sheet protectors and made lay flat books when making some repairs as it keeps the pages clean and you can read them.

At the same time I like having them on the phone so you can zoom in.

A lot of this is covered in the above posts.

I did not include the "continue NS-9A" as it reads like it's for a standard transmission.

As you can see this is why we suggest a FSM, they put a ton of work into these back in the engineering days.

Some stuff not known to them at thr time would be things like the starter contacts wearing out. The run on starter sounds like you could have bad contacts at some point. Which could be adding extra items not related in the mix.

 

[GAmes]

When this problem began it acted like a sticking solenoid on the starter and I replaced 1 starter.

It's too late now, but if you bought a parts house (AutoZone, Napa, etc) starter look forward to it failing again. The OEM is much higher quality. Your old starter was probably easily repaired for much less money as well.

https://fostertruck.com/pages/faq

There are other places for info not covered in the FSM too. Here's one. https://www.genosgarage.com/tech_info

Then of course there is the search function here on the forum. You will more than likely not ever encounter a problem that hasn't been seen beffore.

 

[Timd32]

I put one of these on my new starter.

It's a diode from Larry's. If you read the description it covers the failure you describe.

https://fostertruck.com/products/larrybs-fuel-solenoid-diode-for-dodge-cummins-12-valve-94-1998-5

Edit.... this is not your probelm and will not fix your truck.

 

[MLee]

when I had a similar problem as yours, I replaced my batteries and that solved my problem. Course they were ten years old. So don't over look them. Either charge them and make sure they are making good connections before replacing them.

 

[Topzide]

Maybe these will help,

 

[Northern Nevada]

Howdy all! Thank you for the diagrams I am downloading and printing those.

The question is, the fusible links outside of the relay fuse box? Where are those located?

 

[petersonj]

From the last page on your wiring diagram (only right side up instead). Should be right off of your drivers side positive battery post. The fusible links are short 12 gauge special wire with both ends connected to the 6 gauge black wire. The links may not be obvious because they are insulated.

- John

 

[Northern Nevada]

Ahhhh OK I know what your talking about they go down and bolt onto a terminal board of sorts. I'll ohm check those in the morning. God, I am hoping that's the problem.

N N

 

[Topzide]

Sorry about the wrong way they came out. Glad that they can be of some help to you, I have that manual for my 2001 1500 Gasser! Still running that truck but with 7.5' snow plow. Saves me a lot of time instead of no cab tractor! Good luck, sounds like you may be on the right track.