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Flex-A-Lite Monster Electric

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105 degF makes quite a difference. My V-10 would cool OK in the Hill Country (6% grades) at 70 degF. Good luck this summer.



Rusty
 
I've run fine for the last 2 summers without any problems at all. My uncle's 82 Dodge has a Detroit in it that uses a single fan from a Subaru and the conversion is over 15 years old. His stays cool too. The biggest fan might not be what's really needed for a particular application. Again I wouldn't pull 20k with it through the desert, but for daily driving in the Northeast it works great. Hot summer days in the high 90's stuck in stop & go traffic has the needle vertical - never past. I got my idea from running without a fan all winter a few years ago. I didn't bother to put it back on until it was over a constant 60 degrees.



Just my $0. 02
 
I agree - for mall cruising or even towing in moderate conditions, electric fans might be OK. For running at (or above) maximum GCWR with a tall trailer in Texas summertime conditions, however, they won't cut it. Caveat emptor.



Rusty
 
electric fan feedback .....

RustyJC said:
I agree - for mall cruising or even towing in moderate conditions, electric fans might be OK. For running at (or above) maximum GCWR with a tall trailer in Texas summertime conditions, however, they won't cut it. Caveat emptor.



Rusty



Rusty, thanks for sharing the specifics of your unsatisfactory use of the electric cooling fans on your CTD. You're right, Caveat Emptor (Greek or Latin for 'buyer beware').



One thought: I went to www.Flex-a-lite.com and looked up the fan you used - actually they didn't list a 350 but a 340 - the same unit ?



It appears that they now offer larger, more powerful units that are application specific for the "Chevy Duramax Diesel" and even the Ferd "Powerstroke Diesel" so it sounds like the R & D to make an electric fan that WILL work on our trucks is there - almost. If it will cool a Chevy and Ferd, we should hold out hope...



For now they now, I think, recommend their "monster truck -dual-fan" as Big Bad Dodge, who started this thread said he had purchased. I'm sure his performance report will be helpful... .



Below is a single page site that lists all their fans with applications & descriptions, note the two Chevy & Ferd Diesel truck fans in particular:



http://jeeperz.tenmagazines.com/ipg.ten-sid-31-lid-934-x-flexalite



Regards, David B.
 
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DBazley said:
One thought: I went to www.Flex-a-lite.com and looked up the fan you used - actually they didn't list a 350 but a 340 - the same unit ?
The Model 350 I used was purchased in 1999 - I'm sure it's been superseded, but it was the largest electric fan setup Flex-a-Lite had for the Dodges at that time. If left idling with the lights and A/C on, the 50A draw would pull that battery down in short order, so 600W was effectively about all the truck could handle.



Rusty
 
Back to you, Rusty

RustyJC said:
The Model 350 I used was purchased in 1999 - I'm sure it's been superseded, but it was the largest electric fan setup Flex-a-Lite had for the Dodges at that time. If left idling with the lights and A/C on, the 50A draw would pull that battery down in short order, so 600W was effectively about all the truck could handle.



Rusty





OK this is starting to make sense... . Sounds like they've improved on them quite a bit in 7 years, eh ? On the new fans, the CFM is higher for way less amps, it appears, for example, their dual set up for the Ford Powerstroke gives 6000 CFM for just 28-36 amps.



I can see that 50 amps was a pull for sure - especially if your fuel heater was cycling or other demands were vying for current... .



My concern also was as you cited, the electrical draw. On my truck I feel the electrical system is a bit stronger than on my Ram Van - one reason I choose for the Van the single strongest puller they offer - Black Magic Extreme, 3300 CFM using 18 amps - we'll see if it's sufficient.



I know this model isn't sufficient for our CTD's, again this is for a gasser Ram Van with small 318 V-8 - (twin to the gasser ram trucks. )



I only chose it after reading half a dozen successful installations on other Dodge vehicles with V-8's or even V-10's, mostly gasser Ram trucks, newer Hemi trucks & Dakotas.



My guess is on these gasser rigs, they drive 'em hard, but they never try to pull the weight our CTD trucks do, which is what puts such huge cooling demands on 'em ... .



thanks David B.
 
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One other difference - Rusty's experience was with a V-10, not a CTD. Don't know the coolant and air flow rates through the radiators in front of the 2 motors, but the airflow requirements between a diesel and gas motor may be different. Don't know - just pointing out the difference.
 
nps said:
One other difference - Rusty's experience was with a V-10, not a CTD. Don't know the coolant and air flow rates through the radiators in front of the 2 motors, but the airflow requirements between a diesel and gas motor may be different. Don't know - just pointing out the difference.
The V-10 used the same radiator as the CTD. Heat rejection rates certainly differ, but my experience is still valid for reference.



Rusty
 
From what I have read is that at road speed, 55 + you're being cooled by ram air - the force of oncoming air, not your engine fan at all. Yet it's turning all the time, consuming energy that should be driving your wheels forward.



I found this is only limitedly true... I ran just without my fan shroud last week for about 2 hours. I ran over 200 degrees several times on a truck that has never been that hot in the two years i've owned it. The fan and shroud combo are doing something at highway speed. . About 20* of something.





I was looking into this mod the first time Scott mentioned it. Although i'd be looking at $2000 in fuel just to recoup, in fuel savings, the cash spent on the fan.
 
I have run the stock fan, no fan, and an electric fan on my truck (I also added a tonneau cover too :) ) I can honestly say that I have not found one of these things to noticably increase fuel economy in any measurable amount and FWIW I keep track of my mileage for every tank of fuel. Neither the tonneau or the electric fan added any measurable incease in MPG's. I also changed to all synthetic fluids and didn't notice anything at that time either.



Right now I am running without a fan on my 1996 (long story why there is not a fan on there right now) and I have towed a 22' enclosed trailer several times and the only time I have a heat issue is idling or very slow stop and go traffic. Highway driving and normal driving around town everything is fine (ambient air temp 65-70 degrees). The transmission temps are a little warmer with no fan but other than that everything else is unchanged.



BTW - When fully locked up on a stock truck the stock fan draws somewhere around 25HP. In my experience the fan rarely locks up 100% and as Rusty said it is "free-wheeling" quite often.
 
Cooker said:
Neither the tonneau or the electric fan added any measurable incease in MPG's.
I read a story (can't remember where) that concluded running with an open bed and the tailgate up gives the best MPG, even compared to running with a cover, topper, or the tailgate down. Something to do with the turbulence breaking the vacuum at the rear of the vehicle.



I have a tonneau to keep the back covered. ;)
 
No fan here....

I like Cooker have been fanless for several years now. The only issue I have is hot weather, AC use and stop and go traffic. You need a fan to us AC at low or no speeds.



I never heard my factory Clutch fan kick in, nor did I see the coolant temps rise above 190 in 200K miles of heavy towing (4 gear on the govn for 100s miles). All towing in open country... no stop and go.



A big heat source and difference between years and trucks is whether Auto or manual. Autos add alot of heat the probably require a fan before a manual.



I have towed medium loads with no fan and as long as speeds were over 40 mph I seen no rise in coolant temps. It is amazing the cooling affect of running the heater on high (fan on high - temp hot) for a few minutes even in the summer time.



I have no doudt a modern electric fan on my truck would adequately cool no matter where I pulled and any load Legal for the truck.



At this point for how I use mine... . I will just continue to run fanless.



... and yes it gets warm in ND!



jjw

ND
 
how can it save mpg?

for using for on road use I am not trying to start an argument but how do you figure the electrics would be of savings in the long run HP is HP and whether you use electric or engine driven it sitll takes HP. '



In fact I would be willing to say that it is less efficient to run electrics you are going from mechanical energy to electric engery and then back to mechanical instead of just mechanical direct?



I may be wrong just want to bring that thought up. Also alternators are not 100% efficient and so you are probably putting a considerable amount of additional stress on it and the batteries as if you have the A/C Headlights Radio and your trailer lights then you add 50A to that you are well past what the alternator can put out for long durations and shortening its life by subjecting the windings to substancial overheating. Anyone else thinking along these lines?
 
JJW_ND said:
II never heard my factory Clutch fan kick in, nor did I see the coolant temps rise above 190 in 200K miles of heavy towing (4 gear on the govn for 100s miles). All towing in open country... no stop and go.
Mine has kicked in ever since it was new pulling a load up a 6% grade, even when ambient temps are in the 60-70's. Agree it never kicks in when towing on flat land, even when the ambient temp is 95+.
 
I could always hear mine too,so I took it off last september and have been fanless ever since. I can honestly say I saw no MPG change and I check every tank. So far the temp gauge shows the same as with a fan. The only time I saw an increase in temp was about 3 weeks ago I took a truck and trailer (16 ft. tandem, 2ft sides coverded) loaded with hurricane relief supplies to Gulfport MS. In stop and go traffic the temp would climb to about 200 but would drop back down to about 180 once I got up to 35 mph or so. It was 94 degrees out that day and pulling/carrying about 6000 pounds. I had meant to bring the fan with just in case but, somehow forgot to pack it! As it turned out I did not need it but, I was glad to get unloaded and head back to cooler temps. ( the devastation down there is something else!) The One benefit That I can tell a diff. is that the truck warms up a little bit faster in our WI. winters. I plan to leave the fan off until summer temps say other wise. (truck is a 94 with atuo trans)
 
I just installed the #284 Flex-a-lite unit in my conversion this past weekend. It seems to be their highest CFM fan for the moment (6000CFM). . and the in-line fuse is rated at 30A.



My voltmeter doesn't move when it comes on... though I did upgrade the alternator a bit when the cummins went in.



So far, the unit seems to work great.



As for efficiency - it may be gained elsewhere since your comments on losses during conversions (mechanical->electrical->mechanical) are correct; nothing is 100%.



For example of 'elsewhere', when they are off I suspect the load is essentially zero for the electric, while the stock unit has some ongoing viscous coupling. I don't know if it is enough to matter. Also, in some respects, cooling when the engine isn't turning much (low RPM, stop-and-go) may be better with the electrics.



Ultimately, it may be a very individual matter of GVW, modes of use, and personal preference. I note the one fellow who hardly needs a fan at all (!!) but doesn't really notice a change in mileage. Given that report, kind-of makes the mechanical/electrical discussion of economy less... material?

:-laf



FYI - Mark

-



MCrossley said:
for using for on road use I am not trying to start an argument but how do you figure the electrics would be of savings in the long run HP is HP and whether you use electric or engine driven it sitll takes HP. '



In fact I would be willing to say that it is less efficient to run electrics you are going from mechanical energy to electric engery and then back to mechanical instead of just mechanical direct?



I may be wrong just want to bring that thought up. Also alternators are not 100% efficient and so you are probably putting a considerable amount of additional stress on it and the batteries as if you have the A/C Headlights Radio and your trailer lights then you add 50A to that you are well past what the alternator can put out for long durations and shortening its life by subjecting the windings to substancial overheating. Anyone else thinking along these lines?
 
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