Fluidampr install for 06

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

48 re 1-2 gear hunt

De-gunking my Pacbrake...

Status
Not open for further replies.
I am about to install new fluidampr on my 06, I have read all the threads about fluidampr's. I need 3 questions answered or cleared up.

1) Does the fan have to be taken off ?

2) I read it is next to impossible to install new belt after fluidampr, is it because the belt want go between the fan blades and new dampr, or between fan clutch pulley and dampr?

3) If it is fan blades could they be cut down, for clearance?



Thanks,

Lynn
 
No need to remove the fan. The clearance issue is with the damper and the fan pulley. If you put the belt in place before you put on the damper (which I didn't do) then it isn't an issue. I had to wedge the belt in the gap between the damper and pulley and bar the engine to squeeze the belt thru the gap. No need to trim the fan. Be sure to torque correctly -they are very tight- and use new bolts (they're about $7 from Cummins). The fan shroud on the bottom gets in the way of your torque wrench. I ended up cracking my shroud.
 
i did not put the belt on first either. that made it a lot harder. the fan skinned my knuckles up enough trying to get the belt on is the reason i took it off
 
I just completed the install, it went smooth for the most part. It seemed to take longer to figure out how to go at the job than it took to do it. My steering stabilizer had to be removed so that was slow. I did unbolt the fan blade so it would tilt with the plastic shroud, that has to be unbolted also then I was able to push it toward the radiator and give plenty of clearance. I did install the new HD belt before putting everything back together. The fluidampr is heavier by about 8 lbs. but it felt like 20 lbs. over my head and a little tricky lining it up. The motor seemed to turn forever before it locked up to start torquing the bolts. I let the loctite cure for about 1 hr. before I started the truck of a test run. The motor was smoother than before and the Southbend DD is some what quieter on a cold start up. After a 10 mile run I can say the motor is much much smoother and I could fill a big difference in the seat and transmission.

The clutch is also quieter at stop sign idle " released". And alot quieter at park, and shut down. I know this add on is very pricey but I think it well worth it. I was looking for what I got out of it. Smoothness from the motor and a quieter clutch.



Thanks,

Lynn
 
Mine's sitting in the shed still,waiting for my stock clutch to go out. I think,I'll replace the tensioner and especially the belt when I install it.
 
Thanks for the write up, I have a 3250DD and am getting rather tired of the noise, been thinking about doing a dampner.
 
Noise

Thanks for the write up, I have a 3250DD and am getting rather tired of the noise, been thinking about doing a dampner.



I had an 06 2500 with a SB single disc, solid flywheel etc. and even with the Fluiddampner it was still very noisy.

I had inst. the dampner before the new clutch so I never really new how much, if any, it helped with the noise. It did become much more irritating as time went on.

IMHO, our Cummins engines need either the dual mass flywheel or a torque converter to quiet down the low RPM harmonics.

After selling my 06 I bought my 98 with an AT with that situation being one of the major reasons I didn't mind giving up my G-56.
 
I think the G56 also has much more vibrations then a NV5600, I have driven 2 NV5600 with the 3250 and they are much quieter then the G56, But I will gladly live with the noise of a good clutch before having an Auto. The other thing my truck does is throw an ABS light for the rear ABS sensor if I lug the engine much at all going up a hill, it will go off next time I start the truck and drive around a bit but I can throw an ABS code on demand if I drive it right. I am fairly certain its Driveline Vibrations causing the ABS sensor to trip and hoping a good dampner will fix the problem.
 
Just a reminder for anyone that plans on running the engine to the 3500 rpm + range, it's necessary to pin the Fluidampr to the crank as well. It's not very expensive, and just takes a little more time.

--Eric
 
I have installed one of these a few years ago and now am closing in on 300,000 miles without any problems with it. You do have to remove the fan and pulley or loosen the damper to get a replacement belt on though.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top