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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Fluidampr

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) 1998.5 update

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4k miles with fluid damper. ( 3500 miles with TC ). did get above 130 lbft, should be enough for std hp, ( did not pin the fluidamper )



:confused: Instructions that came w/dampner, related to torque, stated "30 lbft, then an additional 60 degrees". Not sure where the 130 lbft mentioned came from? Are you sure it was 130 and not 30 . . . and am I sure it was 30 not 130 ? ? ?



Checking instructions now . . . Step 4 - Fluidampr Installation lists: Dodge Cummins: 03-07, 98. 5-02, 92-98. 5 and Comp Series - Quote: "30 ft-lbs plus an additional 60 degrees".



So at least I'm sure it's 30 not 130.
 
Joe Mc , exactly, I could not get the 60 degrees,
so I used a torque wrench to see what torque was on the bolts.

130 lb I did get a 'snap' on the torque wrench,
at 140 ftlb I was not strong enough to get a snap
I weigh 170lbs and close to 69 ( years ) 130 ftlb will have to do for know.

I did not have a tool to hold the engine, tryed to use the 6sd
with brakes locked, probably not a good idea...


Also, I Checked the Fluidamper today ' all looks god "
Did find where the black goop came from. The breather is
ozing some oil and running down the vent line, changes to goop
in the process...


And the more I drive it, the better I like it: The cummins and
the fluidamper and the 6 speed and the smarty,
Really shifts nice..... Love my 7000 lb sports car
 
Love my 7000 lb sports car



Ditto on the last part :-laf me too;)



Understand - makes sense what you did - hope if I'm fortunate to reach your tenure on the planet, that I'm still able to keep fiddling with these things. God bless and keep on wrenching!
 
Just received my new Fluidamper Oo. - decided it would be a worthwhile mod especially based on the favorable replies in this thread.



For those of you who have installed your Fluidampers, did you re-use the stock bolts? As mentioned above, the instructions say to use new torque-to-yield bolts, which require a torque-angle wrench - not a big deal as I have one, but I am wondering why the stock bolts can't be re-used?



By the way, the factory service manual for my '99 does NOT imply the stock bolts are torque to yield; in fact, it just lists the torque as 92 ft-lb and makes no mention of needing to replace the bolts (torque-to-yield bolts by design can only be used ONCE and must be replaced everytime they are loosened).



Thanks in advance for your replies.
 
Joe Mc: Thanks for the encourgement, need it

Drag racer: I too read the manual, and had the same thought
But,Since the fluidamper installation spec. implyed a torque to yield, I chose to buy new Bolts, just to be safe...

Cummins had them, I think about 20 bucks, so being
something I did not want to screw up, went for the new bolts
 
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for one the torque to yield speaks for itself ,but also the bolts are spinning in the crank @ 1000's of rpms for many thousands of hours that centrifigal force makes the bolts fragile to shearing forces, I've sheared flywheel bolts on two cars! I never reuse them anymore.
 
pretty much any bolt is gonna stretch anytime you tighten it, especially a torque to yield bolt. Major bolts, like pretty much anything in the bottom end of an engine, head bolts, flywheel bolts, and ofcource damper bolts, probably shouldn't be reused.
 
Thanks for the education on "Torque to Yield"

Stopped by Cummins SW this evening - $3. 86 per bolt - not too bad. Yea, I agree, probably cheap insurance.





I did not know that.



I will get new bolts. Drag Racer do you have the p/n handy? It Should it be the same for '94-'02?
 
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Fluidampr Installed

Just wanted to report back... finished installing the Fluidampr last week - it is a top-notch quality piece and glad I put it in.

I also went ahead and pinned it just for the added peace of mind even though I probably didn't need it for my power level and usage. Overall, it took quite a while to do the pin kit, mainly just because I went slow to be extra careful not to make a mistake. The drill jig tool provided worked great - my holes in the crank ended up nice and straight. Limited access even with the radiator out made tapping the pins in a bit tedious, but they finally went. A right angle drill is required for access to drill the pin holes unless the engine is either lifted, or out, or you have the radiator and intercooler out. Also had to buy the Cummins barring tool to keep the crank from turning over to be able to achieve the final torque level on the balancer bolts, but that is a good tool to have around anyway.

My stock balancer was in decent shape (marks still lined up), but I would highly recommend the Fluidampr to anyone considering it.
 
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The Fluidampr is a high quality piece. . If your installing on an auto remove the TC cover under the truck 3 5/16 bolts. Hold the flex plate with a big flat head to tq the damper bolts.
 
The Fluidampr is a high quality piece. . If your installing on an auto remove the TC cover under the truck 3 5/16 bolts. Hold the flex plate with a big flat head to tq the damper bolts.



Good idea OPoole - hey whatever works huh? I pulled the cover and clamped a set of vise grips on the fwheel teeth to loosen and then moved them to the opposite side of the wheel to tighten. "220 221 whatever it takes" ;)
 
Installed mine tonight - thank you Mr. Poole - nice key chain btw -

If I had to do it again - I would at least pull the rad & get a short carbide bit. It was not fun doing the drill pin kit, but I wouldn't do it without it. As it was, I sharpened that damn bit at least 10 times... maybe I got a bad one, but I think they're being a tad cheap on the bit.

I'll post up an opinion on driving it tomorrow - too tired tonight.
 
The difference is amazing. You can't "feel" it idle anymore.



Wish it had been the first thing I'd done.







Edit: I loves me some fluidampr. :)
 
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Updated Info?

Is there any updates from those that have installed the Fluidampr?



Especially information on cold weather usage? Extended warm ups necessary?



Does the balancer react differently at below zero conditions?



Do you have let the truck idle for an extended period, if the truck isn't driven for a week or two?



Does the Fluidampr behave differently when the engine is shut down?



Thanks,



Troy
 
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