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After owning 2 6.4s ('09 & '10 F450s) and blowing a piston in each, I am debating going to a Ram 3500 dually. Tow a 19500lb fiver, and will put about 30k/year miles on it. Having owned a Ford truck for the last 15 years, I find myself lost in trying to build a Ram on the website and finding the actual specs (brake size/swept area/other specs that I can find easily on the Ford sites. Also having big trouble finding the truck I would like on a dealer lot. Will be going thru Kellogg, ID, soon and checking at Dave Smith there and see what they have. I have not had the opportunity to drive nor even ride in a new Ram yet, as my full-timing travels have not taken me thru a town with the correctly-equipped truck on the lot. I have looked at a couple '17s and sat in one, but no ride/drive.
Would like some advice on how to locate the official specs on the '17s and what is expected to be new on the '18s.
Would also appreciate that the advice is well-intentioned and not mostly Ford bashing, particularly if there is any common trend of problems that have to be faced under warranty.
Thanks in advance--just trying to get a feel about if this is the way to go.
Joe
 
After owning 2 6.4s ('09 & '10 F450s) and blowing a piston in each, I am debating going to a Ram 3500 dually. Tow a 19500lb fiver, and will put about 30k/year miles on it. Having owned a Ford truck for the last 15 years, I find myself lost in trying to build a Ram on the website and finding the actual specs (brake size/swept area/other specs that I can find easily on the Ford sites. Also having big trouble finding the truck I would like on a dealer lot. Will be going thru Kellogg, ID, soon and checking at Dave Smith there and see what they have. I have not had the opportunity to drive nor even ride in a new Ram yet, as my full-timing travels have not taken me thru a town with the correctly-equipped truck on the lot. I have looked at a couple '17s and sat in one, but no ride/drive.
Would like some advice on how to locate the official specs on the '17s and what is expected to be new on the '18s.
Would also appreciate that the advice is well-intentioned and not mostly Ford bashing, particularly if there is any common trend of problems that have to be faced under warranty.
Thanks in advance--just trying to get a feel about if this is the way to go.
Joe

Why not just order one to be built? You get it exactly the way you want and you should be able to do a good bargain since the dealer doesn't have to put any money to park it on the lot.



 
Well, may end up doing that--but so far, not having much luck finding what I think I want on a lot to see one. Tried the build and price deal and it would change my options at times because I did not know enough about the packages.
Did not make it real clear that I am full-time in a fifth-wheel and have to be somewhere long enough to check local dealers. And, not being a long-time Ram/Dodge fan, really don't know how it feels to drive one and how the Cummins is different to drive from the Powerstroke.
You ever rent a car at an airport and get a brand you haven't ever been in? That's kind of where I am at right now--just don't have ANY feel for how they drive, where the buttons/levers are, etc. And I really dislike driving up on a dealer lot and being descended upon like fresh meat...
But thanks for the suggestion.
Joe
 
So for a die hard Ford guy, only owning Fords since I started driving 24 years ago I bought my first Ram 3500 SRW this year. From my research the known issues are weak water pumps that fail from 50-100,000 miles. I haven't seen anyone that really understands why they fail so early.

Other issue I have seen is some codes thrown by DEF issues, as soon as I get to half a tank I put in another 2.5 gallons, keep it full so the sensors keep wet for the most part.

Only other issue is the death wobble that Fords were prone too as well.

As you know they all have issues, I only have 5,000 miles with majority of it towing. My only disappointment is the shift points of the AISIN transmission, it is supposed to be bulletproof, but I tend to manually shift it because when towing it jumps into a higher gear to fast and can't get out of its own way.
 
My only disappointment is the shift points of the AISIN transmission, it is supposed to be bulletproof, but I tend to manually shift it because when towing it jumps into a higher gear to fast and can't get out of its own way.

Did you put it in tow/haul mode? That is specifically there just for towing and holding lower gears longer...
 
Did you put it in tow/haul mode? That is specifically there just for towing and holding lower gears longer...

Yes, I have tried with it on and off. The exhaust brake works much better in tow haul so I use it all the time but I tried everything. The 6 speed in my 13 Ford shifted so much better, but that isn't the end of the world, just my only complaint.


 
Hey Wingnut, Check out my post on ford trucks enthusiasts forum titled wandered off to the darkside. I have been a loyal Ford diesel truck owner who has gone to the Ram side. No regrets whatsoever. My Ram 3500 Cummins pulls like a freight train with way better fuel mileage. In my opinion you can't go wrong. I'm very happy with my choice. Best of luck to you. Scotty
 
From all reports the Ford auto is top notch. The Aisin in my 15 works well for me but some still complain about it compared to the Ford. I've never heard of a 4th gen Ram running stock suspension having a death wobble. Just be sure to talk with someone who actually knows these trucks, not just a salesman who was working for GM last month. A bad salesman will be your worst enemy, and there's plenty of them out there.
 
SnoKing,
Went by Dillon, his inventory pales in comparison to Smiths....
Scotty088,
Will check your post, thanks.

His inventory may be less, however so is his price. Tell what you want and see what they can come up with. WIth DS, you way have a hard time finding a Aisin transmission. SnoKing
 
I mostly work on Fords- 6.4's and 6.7's- F550's and I drive my sig truck. I would say that same F model to D model the specs you're studying are par. They have to be since they compete.
You have to acclimate yourself to the inline 6. It's not rev happy like the 8's. It's not going to be as fast, but you'll soon learn what pure grunt is. Peak torque at 1600.
Good luck.
 
Coming from Fords myself, don't expect the Ram to shift like the Ford did. The Cummins is a different beast.
 
Hi Wingnut60,have to agree with Bob 4x4,call the nearest Ram dealership ask for fleet sales,set a appointment.And in his office he will have every dimension,sizing,bed payload,tow ratings in bumper,goose,5th wheel.Also axle GAWR front and rear,ring gear size etc.One thing I have seen is there is a value package in Big Horn/Lonestar optioned out just a little like spray-in bed,5th wheel prep/gooseneck prep,8NAV screen display is a important item as well and one most important is power folding mirrors pay close attention to that option on the build sheet or MSRP Buildup.There is a reason a dealership will discount those because of that very item not orderd it now is the plague because nobody whats to get out and fold a mirror in the rain or the snow.Cloth buckets seats with a 8 inch screen does come as a option on those 2 packages standard default is a bench console.Then if you what leather you will move up in price.I would wait till Labor Day to see what dealer's are going to discount remaining 2017 inventory.Ram is only going to match Ford in manufacture discount,but I am seeing say 6-7000 dallors plus 2500 from manufacture,on BigHorn/Lonestar.A little movement on price with anything with leather,sunroof etc..I see those start to discount right around Jan-Feb time frame and then they go real fast what's left of them being Laramine,Longhorn,or Limited editions,and they really knock off around 11,000-12,000 on them here in TX.Black,white not to many two/tones maybe a granite etc..But you will find it real simple.Also,you can with the fleet dept build it out the way you want and he will run a search say 1500 miles or so and located the truck,you can let them do a dealer trade or you can go over yonder to make your peace with them were it is located at.One thing with the weight you mention,it will have to be a 3500 SRW,68RFE,4:10 it can 5th wheel pull 21,660.GCWR is 30,300.You would save money on this transmission because I am already seeing dealers discounting these,for Labor Day.The RAM 3500 LB,DRW/Aisin combo well 3;42 gets you 20,520,and 3:73 gets you 25,020,and a 4:10 will pull 30,320.You can see these numbers and more at www.ramtrucks.com/assests/towing_guide/pdf.As being a fair minded person as us RAM owners are against the competition (if any)well you may want to test drive the 2017 Ford F350 as well it is a complete redesign.After testing driving one myself I notice in certain confiqurations they 5th wheel tow less then are 4th gen do.They tend to penalize crewcab,SB,4X4.And almost force you up to a higher 1 ton in a Longbed 2x4or F450 to exceed or match some tow ratings in Ram trucks.I will leave out my judgement on reliability for a least 1 year.To see there fuel mileage city and towing,cost of ownership etc.It is nice chatter at the RV campgrounds during the day when not fishing...I have a feeling they will not even come close.It is really cheap for me to run this truck.And fuel mileage wise I am beating some my neighbors all ready.TFL Truck ran a shootout with GM,Ford,RAM Ram in DRW 3500's and won in 2-3 catagories fuel mileage,and a high altuide dyno run it beat the Ford and the GM on torque,and came in second on the IKE Gaulet run.I feel they would have givin the RAM the Golden Hitch award again had they not given it to the RAM just 2 years ago prior to this Golden hitch shootout.It may sound crazy but this 7 year design still seems to play,so I do see the logic for FCA to hold off on there design.It really shows good value against there competition,and pricing.Also they just increased the torque again for the 6.7L Cummins to 930 it was just 900 with a Aisin.That is a 30 foot pound increase without a major redesign.Good luck Wingnut60....
 
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Eagle,
Thank you for a well-thought out description. I have to have a dually with my 4500lb pin weight. Appreciate the suggestion to talk to fleet sales, but not at that point yet. Really want to figure out packages and how to read the stickers--been doing this with Fords so long, I know immediately if it has what I am looking for. Will check out the link you posted--thanks for that.
One of the things that drives me crazy with Ford is finding a nice, low-mileage '16 450/new '17 450 WITHOUT the factory hitch setup---who in the world buys an F450 not to tow something?
Thinking hard on this...
 
So for a die hard Ford guy, only owning Fords since I started driving 24 years ago I bought my first Ram 3500 SRW this year. From my research the known issues are weak water pumps that fail from 50-100,000 miles. I haven't seen anyone that really understands why they fail so early.

Other issue I have seen is some codes thrown by DEF issues, as soon as I get to half a tank I put in another 2.5 gallons, keep it full so the sensors keep wet for the most part.

Only other issue is the death wobble that Fords were prone too as well.

As you know they all have issues, I only have 5,000 miles with majority of it towing. My only disappointment is the shift points of the AISIN transmission, it is supposed to be bulletproof, but I tend to manually shift it because when towing it jumps into a higher gear to fast and can't get out of its own way.
SRW / 3:42 explains it. Wingnut60, stay away from the 3:42 rear diff, you'll hate the shift points.
 
Eagle,
Thank you for a well-thought out description. I have to have a dually with my 4500lb pin weight. Appreciate the suggestion to talk to fleet sales, but not at that point yet. Really want to figure out packages and how to read the stickers--been doing this with Fords so long, I know immediately if it has what I am looking for. Will check out the link you posted--thanks for that.
One of the things that drives me crazy with Ford is finding a nice, low-mileage '16 450/new '17 450 WITHOUT the factory hitch setup---who in the world buys an F450 not to tow something?
Thinking hard on this...

I installed the 4 factory puck receivers on the frame brackets on my 2015 RAM myself and the 7 wire outlet in the bed. It took about hours working by myself. With two people it would be much faster.

As far as towing with a 3500 RAM dually, user Cummins12V98 tows really heavy with a 2015 Longhorn with 4:10, Aisin transmission and rear air. Snoking
 
My only disappointment is the shift points of the AISIN transmission, it is supposed to be bulletproof, but I tend to manually shift it because when towing it jumps into a higher gear to fast and can't get out of its own way.

You have not filled out your sig line, so I do not know the year of your truck. See if this TSB applies to your truck. Mine does much better at being in the right gear and staying there after this TSB. SnoKing

21-004-16 REV. A -2-
NOTE: This bulletin applies to DD, DF and DP vehicles built on or before November 21, 2016 (MDH 1121XX) equipped with a 6-Speed Aisin Automatic Transmission (Sales Code DF2) or an AS66RC Aisin Automatic Transmission (Sales Code DF3).
SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
A small number of customers may experience one or more of the following conditions:
Vehicles equipped with an AS69RC automatic transmission (Sales Code DF2)
• **1-2 Upshift shudder correction (Diesel engines only).
• Cruise Control shift quality improvements while on coast down.
• 3-4 Flare Issue fix (Diesel engines only).
• Trans quick learn fix (Gas engines only).**
• A harsh 1-2 upshift.
• Excessive gear shifting.
• Less than desired towing performance while using cruise control.
• Harsh engagement while shifting from neutral to drive, neutral to reverse, or park to
reverse with vehicle still in motion (rolling garage shift).
• Transmission Oil Temperature light illumination during high engine and tow loads.
• Engine flare during 2-1 tip in downshift.
• Less than desired shift quality during 6-5, 5-4 coasting downshifts.
• Delayed downshifts in Tow/Haul mode while driving down grades.
• Less than desired transmission shift performance when transitioning from low
traction surface to high traction surfaces. (i.e. ice covered road to clear pavement).
• Harsh 2-1 downshift.
• Less than desired shift points during light pedal and Wide Open Throttle (WOT)
operation or while in Tow/Haul and engine brake modes.
• Delayed engagement when shifting from neutral to drive, neutral to reverse, or park
to reverse (garage shifts).
• Audible squawk noise on 4-3 downshift.
• Poor vehicle acceleration in first gear with vehicle fully loaded.
• Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) illumination with no defect found for Diagnostic
Trouble Code (DTC) P253D - PTO Sense Circuit High.
AS66RC automatic transmission (Sales Code DF3)
• **Cruise Control shift quality improvements while on coast down.
• 3-4 Flare Issue fix (Diesel engines only).
• Trans quick learn fix (Gas engines only).**
• Transmission Oil Temperature light illumination during high engine and tow loads.
• Less than desired towing performance while using cruise control.
• Harsh engagement while shifting from neutral to drive, neutral to reverse, or park to reverse with vehicle still in motion (rolling garage shift).
• Engine flare during 2-1 tip in downshift.
• Less than desired shift quality during 6-5, 5-4 coasting downshifts.
• Delayed downshifts in Tow/Haul mode while driving down grades.
• Less than desired transmission shift performance when transitioning from a low
traction to high traction surfaces. (i.e. ice covered road to clear pavement).
• Less than desired shift points during light pedal and Wide Open Throttle (WOT)
operation or while in Tow/Haul and engine brake modes.
-3- 21-004-16 REV. A
DIAGNOSIS:
Using a Scan Tool (wiTECH) with the appropriate Diagnostic Procedures available in TechCONNECT, verify all related systems are functioning as designed. If DTCs or symptom conditions, other than the ones listed above are present, record the issues on the repair order and repair as necessary before proceeding further with this bulletin.
If the customer describes the symptom/condition listed above, perform the Repair Procedure.
REPAIR PROCEDURE:
NOTE: Install a battery charger to ensure battery voltage does not drop below 13.2 volts. Do not allow the charging voltage to climb above 13.5 volts during the flash process.
NOTE: If this flash process is interrupted/aborted, the flash should be restarted.
1. Reprogram the TCM with the latest available calibration. Detailed instructions for flashing control modules using the wiTECH Diagnostic Application are available by selecting the “HELP” tab on the upper portion of the wiTECH window, then “HELP CONTENTS.” This will open the Welcome to wiTECH Help screen where help topics can be selected.
2. Once programming is complete, perform the “Quick Learn” procedure using the wiTECH diagnostic scan tool.
3. Clear all DTCs that may have been set in any module due to reprogramming. The wiTECH application will automatically present all DTCs after the flash and allow them to be cleared.
POLICY:
Reimbursable within the provisions of the warranty.
TIME ALLOWANCE:
NOTE: The expected completion time for the flash download portion of this procedure is approximately 3 minutes. Actual flash download times may be affected by vehicle connection and network capabilities.
Labor Operation No:
Description
Skill Category
Amount
**18-19-05-EF
Module, Transmission Control (TCM) - Reprogram
(0 - Introduction)
2- Automatic Transmission
0.3 Hrs**

21-004-16 REV. A -4-
FAILURE CODE:
The dealer must choose which failure code to use. If the customer came in with an issue and if the dealer finds a software update to correct that issue, use failure code CC, for all other use failure code RF.
• If the customer’s concern matches the SYMPTOM/CONDITION identified in the Service Bulletin, failure code CC is to be used.
• If an available flash is completed while addressing a different customer concern, failure code RF is to be used.
CC
Customer Concern
RF
Routine Flash
 
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