Frame rot

[Ozymandias]

Here is a used frame on Ebay that would work I believe.

https://www.ebay.com/i/184114100776...y7mrYmV-r52Tj4_8mExl7_ktSlCfkLBAaArczEALw_wcB

Cool, there are so many used frames around.
I would take it, hot dipping it and call it last forever truck.
Awesome.

 

[MarkEagleUSA]

Due to cost and time involved I don’t think a frame replacement is in the cards.

Talking with a friend who’s done a lot of vehicle restorations the plan (unless the frame shop has a reasonable quote) is to use 4x3x3/16 angle and some 4x3/16 flat stock to “wrap” around the bottom of the frame. This can be done without removing anything from the truck.

 

[dieselshadow]

I’d think if you went that way, you’d want to cut out as much cancer as possible, treat the entire inside of the remainder, then apply your patching. If you go right over It, it’ll continue to rot from the inside out.

 

[SnoKing]

They would want to use skip welds around the perimeter and plug welds in the plates in places where the frame is still solid.

 

[MarkEagleUSA]

I’d think if you went that way, you’d want to cut out as much cancer as possible, treat the entire inside of the remainder, then apply your patching. If you go right over It, it’ll continue to rot from the inside out.

He mentioned to me.

They would want to use skip welds around the perimeter and plug welds in the plates in places where the frame is still solid.

The repair pieces will be 18” long. I’m going to have 3 or 4 horizontal slots milled about halfway up.

 

[Ozymandias]

I’d think if you went that way, you’d want to cut out as much cancer as possible, treat the entire inside of the remainder, then apply your patching. If you go right over It, it’ll continue to rot from the inside out.

Oh yeah, and twice as fast.
If you go that way it is essential that it is cut out, and like said ALL of it, not just a little bit.

 

[Wayne M.]

Mark, how about giving these guys a shot?
https://www.autorust.com/
They’re in Rhode Island, and they’ve been making frame and subframe patch kits for 30 years that I know of. Perhaps they have the metal forming tools you’re looking for. I think they actually do the work as well as sell kits.

 

[Wiredawg]

Mark, how about giving these guys a shot?
https://www.autorust.com/
They’re in Rhode Island, and they’ve been making frame and subframe patch kits for 30 years that I know of. Perhaps they have the metal forming tools you’re looking for. I think they actually do the work as well as sell kits.

Wayne,

Great find...that's the real deal. That's the way I'd go.

Cheers, Ron

 

[MarkEagleUSA]

Mark, how about giving these guys a shot?
https://www.autorust.com/
They’re in Rhode Island, and they’ve been making frame and subframe patch kits for 30 years that I know of. Perhaps they have the metal forming tools you’re looking for. I think they actually do the work as well as sell kits.

Thanks Wayne! Sent them a message...

 

[MarkEagleUSA]

Mark, how about giving these guys a shot?
https://www.autorust.com/
They’re in Rhode Island, and they’ve been making frame and subframe patch kits for 30 years that I know of. Perhaps they have the metal forming tools you’re looking for. I think they actually do the work as well as sell kits.

Got a reply from these guys today. They currently offer nothing for the Ram but hope to begin work on it this fall. Also said they’re quite busy due to closures and stuff related to COVID.

Still waiting to hear from the two local shops.

I did grab a bunch of different angle iron at work today but alas it’s raining and thundering now that I’m home. Was able to get a piece of 5x3x1/4 angle that I think will do the job.

 

[Wiredawg]

Mark,

I think this is a fairly easy fix, just lots of prep, cutting rot out, treating remaining factory steel, and determining the right combination of metal products to repair the frame. A suggestion is use close to the same gauge steel as the original frame so you dont eliminate ability to get some frame flex under load.

A thought about stabilizing the rest of the inside of the frame from further corrosion: When done with repairs, pour zinc chromate paint into the frame, covering other rust so oxygen can't reach the metal. Another option is spraying ZBar or equivalent into the frame for same effect.

Anyhoo, I'm interested in following this thread and providing free advice. Hope my advice is worth what you paid for it.

Cheers, Ron

 

[DavidC]

I have used this in the rocker panels, tail gate and parts of the frame
https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-internal-frame-coating-14oz-aerosol.html

 

[seafish]

Got a reply from these guys today. They currently offer nothing for the Ram but hope to begin work on it this fall. Also said they’re quite busy due to closures and stuff related to COVID.

Still waiting to hear from the two local shops.

I did grab a bunch of different angle iron at work today but alas it’s raining and thundering now that I’m home. Was able to get a piece of 5x3x1/4 angle that I think will do the job.

Maybe you should see if they want to use your truck for a patten sample and get the o\work done for a substantial discount for doing so??

Of course that would only work if they were somewhat local to you and if you could give up the truck for a set period of time, but might be worth a try if those conditions are met?

 

[MarkEagleUSA]

Maybe you should see if they want to use your truck for a patten sample and get the o\work done for a substantial discount for doing so??

Of course that would only work if they were somewhat local to you and if you could give up the truck for a set period of time, but might be worth a try if those conditions are met?

Thought of that... they’re about an hour or so away and I use the truck mainly to plow my driveway in the winter. Can’t have it laid up at that time of year.

 

[KParsons]

Maybe you should see if they want to use your truck for a patten sample and get the o\work done for a substantial discount for doing so??

Of course that would only work if they were somewhat local to you and if you could give up the truck for a set period of time, but might be worth a try if those conditions are met?

 

[MarkEagleUSA]

I think this is a fairly easy fix, just lots of prep, cutting rot out, treating remaining factory steel, and determining the right combination of metal products to repair the frame. A suggestion is use close to the same gauge steel as the original frame so you dont eliminate ability to get some frame flex under load.

At work I can get my hands on some 1/8", 3/16", and 1/4" cold rolled plate that can be cut to size. I just thought the angle iron would add some strength since the frame itself has high tensile properties. I'm not towing, or hauling heavy loads. Truck is used mainly for plowing my drivewayu in the winter and the typical home center runs for the honey-do list.

A thought about stabilizing the rest of the inside of the frame from further corrosion: When done with repairs, pour zinc chromate paint into the frame, covering other rust so oxygen can't reach the metal. Another option is spraying ZBar or equivalent into the frame for same effect.

Unfortunately there isn't a whole lot of access to the inside of the frame (not counting the gaping hole in my pics ) so if I can't reach it once I cut away the bad stuff I'm not sure what else I can do.

Anyhoo, I'm interested in following this thread and providing free advice. Hope my advice is worth what you paid for it.

No worries, your advice, as well as that of all the others, is much appreciated.

 

[DavidC]

The eastwood link I posted has a 3 or 4 foot flexible tube with a nozzle end that shoots in multiple positions. I pulled my plastic plugs from the bottom of the rockers, fed the tube in and started spraying while pulling the tube back towards me. The frame kind of the same thing but no plugs just fed into any openings.

 

[JR]

At work I can get my hands on some 1/8", 3/16", and 1/4" cold rolled plate that can be cut to size. .

You probably know this so my apologies in advance..but keep in mind the larger the descrepency between frame thickness and repair material the trickier it will be to weld. Especially doing vertical and overhead. I'd be inclined to stay close to the (original) frame thickness as there isn't really any advantage to going heavier as long as it is sufficiently welded to good steel.

It's definitely doable with 1/4 plate. But to get proper penetration you'll have to have the welder cranked up to the amperage for 1/4 and run the bead on the 1/4 plate, weaving the puddle over to the frame. It becomes a game of getting enough penetration without blowing through the thinner material.

 

[brods]

They would want to use skip welds around the perimeter and plug welds in the plates in places where the frame is still solid.

Mark,

I think this is a fairly easy fix, just lots of prep, cutting rot out, treating remaining factory steel, and determining the right combination of metal products to repair the frame. A suggestion is use close to the same gauge steel as the original frame so you dont eliminate ability to get some frame flex under load.

A thought about stabilizing the rest of the inside of the frame from further corrosion: When done with repairs, pour zinc chromate paint into the frame, covering other rust so oxygen can't reach the metal. Another option is spraying ZBar or equivalent into the frame for same effect.

Anyhoo, I'm interested in following this thread and providing free advice. Hope my advice is worth what you paid for it.

Cheers, Ron

Good points. Also keep in mind typically basic steel angle, channel, etc is A-36 steel with a minimum yield strength of 36,000 psi. If I'm not mistaken the truck frame will be made of stronger steel to save weight. The idea repair will take into account the kind of steel the frame is made of as well as what effect welding will have on that steel. When welding there is a heat affected zone (HAZ) that can change the properties of the steel being welded, which can make some steels brittle. Often repairs crack again right were the existing metal meets the weld in the HAZ. There are different preheat and post heat requirements depending on the kind of steel. I don't consider myself a welder and definitely not a metallurgist, but I have done a lot of stick welding and know enough to know how little I do know, lol.

Good luck with the repair and please keep us updated how it works out.

 

[MarkEagleUSA]

Since the consensus seems to be that the 1/4" angle is too heavy for the repair, I'm getting a piece of 5x3x.120 tubing. Will cut the top off to make a U channel that will slip over the frame from below. It looks to me like the frame rail is approx 1/8 thick metal so the tubing should be easier to weld to the existing frame.

Two guys I work with that are welders said if i stich weld 1" to 1-1/2" at a time and give things a chance to cool it should be ok. Welding several inches at a time will cause problems.

I'm trying to get one of them to help me.