Update
Ok I finally got to put on my new Thrasher intake. I will have my pre- and post-dyno runs on Monday if all goes to plan.
When I got the intake, of course the first thing I did was open it up and look at the all the pieces and parts. I was almost disappointed because there were only two big things: the flat polished intake, the air horn with gasket, a bag of bolts, a little bracket, and a hat but then I found the instructions and looked them over. This made it a little better. There was quite a bit of wrenching to do on this. Well after some honey do’s, late nights at work, late nights trying to get everyone else’s projects I have started done (tried but failed), and drill weekends, I finally got an afternoon where I could work on this. I have access to a big shop with the big tool boxes and about all the tools you could want but because I wanted to do this like a normal “average Joe”, I tried to use as only the tools listed in the directions (with a few, minor adjustments).
The website for this intake is:
Wilson Thrasher Intake Manifold for Dodge Diesel Cummins 03'-07'. Towards the bottom of the page is a link to view the instructions. They were pretty darn close. I think that for an ‘03 to ‘05 they were really good. On my ‘06 there were a few changes to be made but that is part of the game in the aftermarket world. The instructions listed just a few basic tools: 8mm, 10mm, and11mm sockets, extension, ratchet, 10mm, ¾” or 19mm wrench, 6mm allen and a 15 torx. I thought to myself that this was kind of a light load but decided to trust the directions. I got out a blow gun and tried to get as much dirt and debris as I could off the top of the engine and intake. The instructions were very clear, even talking about the APPS on the early trucks. After removing the intake and grid heater, I started to remove the wiring. The instructions didn’t mention it much, but I have found a trick I use on the ‘06-‘07 and ‘06 injector harnesses. If you use a flat tip screwdriver to push in the lock tab and wiggle the connector, it will come out a little easier.
Next, I removed the injectors. This step was little more difficult. At first, my injectors acted like they were going to twist the line. I used the bump method to get them loose. The front are easy, but the back got a little more difficult. I had a normal Snap-on wrench and it was way too long to get to the back injectors. Switching to a stubby ¾” made life a little easier.
I found that the PVC breathers out of the valve cover got in the way. I don’t know if the older trucks had them in the same place or not but it only took a few seconds for me to take them off and make more room to work. One more trick I found is to take a pry bar and put it in the engine lift bracket and push the wrench when trying to break the number 6 line loose with the stubby wrench. Then take off the rail and then the rest of the bolts on the intake. I found an extension that has the swivel built in on the end to be very handy for the ones by the head. At this point I was shocked that it had been a little over a hour and I just got it tore down… then I looked and my work bench and saw all the stuff that I had taken off (see pics). The size difference between the intakes was pretty big (see pics).
Now it’s time to put everything back together… The directions did not say anything about this, but I cleaned all the bolts that were going to be reused so that none of the coating would peel off and get into the intake. It’s probably not too big a deal, but I am picky about some of those things. Be careful when putting the bolts back into the holes, the first time through I got the bolts mixed up and created an extra step by having to go back and make sure they were in the correct holes.
Once that was done, I got the 3 rail and 2 studs for the intake. The instructions show that there were 4 studs but they also say that they were deleted for ease of installation. Then they say to torque down the bolts to 18ft pounds (hmm… no torque wrench on the tools needed). After I got all of them torqued I tried to hook up all my rail feed line, pop off valve and number 6 injector line. This is when I found that number six was not in the right spot and had to loosen up the rail to get the line on the back of the rail and started (just for a little info if you take the rail off). So I got that done and after about kicking my buddy’s butt for moving around the injector lines (they were not in order any more) I got 3-6 line on tight and bolted down. So far so good. Now number 2 line, if you take off the old bracket and do like me (set it down not paying attention), you’ll have to look at the pictures (thank God they’re color) to figure witch way it goes on. I quote from the instructions “You may have to wiggle but it will fit”. It took some looking at it and a couple of choice words but it went on.
Then I had to put their nuts on the studs, two bolts in the side by the head, and one extra bolt where the number 2 injector bracket was bolted down. The bolts that come with the intake use an allen wrench to install. I am not a big fan of these and when I went to tighten them down then I remembered why, the intake is close to 6 inches tall and my allen was not. I had to dig, but I found a set of allens with 3/8” drive that were 6 inches long. They were perfect but a normal allen on a socket with a extension would be fine too. Then I moved to the final injector line, the wiring, and the intake hose. I found this neat little hose installer/remover from snap-on (see pics) but I am sure that others make it. This had to be one of my best investments when I was working on diesels full time. It makes putting on the intake hoses so easy. Back to the intake install: the last step is to unhook the intake heater from the relay and tuck it away.
When it was all back together, it took 2 ten second cranks to get it running ,but it fired and did not miss a bit. The instructions say that the whole process will take about 2 ½ hours, which was right at what it took me having never pulled an intake off a Cummins before. I think it could probably be done faster than that.
So now the fun part: test drive. Well the TST was on 1 and 0 so I went out to the street and sure every thing sounded right. Everything sounded good, time to see if I could feel any difference so to the wood it goes and nail all the gears. It seemed to have a little more there but maybe it was just my imagination. So now it is time to really play 6 and 6. I have learned that from a roll 3rd is the best start point for me, 2nd just wants to spin and is done in a split sec. So I got it rolling in 3rd and to the wood she goes again. Slam all the gears and I do have to say that it made some difference on the higher setting. It pulled through the mid-range stronger than it used to and the smoke seemed to clear up a lot quicker than it did with out the intake. So I would have to say that it is flowing more air. The real test for me will be the fuel mileage. I have a 500 mile trip in a couple of weeks so I will let you know how it does on that. So all and all I am impressed with the intake and if I was going to buy a high ram or something like it and could loose the intake heater, I would recommend it for the money difference.
Attention: TDR Forum Junkies 
