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Front and rear differential covers and fluid recommendations

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I periodically check for leaks, if no evidence exists....I don't even bother to check my diff level, I just change it as needed.
 
No rear cover will make your diff run cooler.. More fake info..its this simple... unless you install a plate and Fin cooler your diff will run the same temp. The only change you will see is the additional lube will TAKE LONGER to heat. So Guess you could make claims of running cooler for a time That's it. All My Big trucks form 2500 Up All have Rear diff temp sensor . The pictures are Trutrac.. If you look you will see the lead wire for the sensor.

The finned cover maybe will run 10-20F lower for longer periods of time but the Lube will reach MAX temp vs use and load.

The plate and fin cooler was installed on My twin turbo setup. I have live gages for all the fake EVIC readings OIL PSI / Oil Temps Etc. Some of the readings are correct.. The 5.9 / 6.7 / 3.0 PSI form the EVIC are false. they all have a switch that will trigger CEL at 10 PSI, at that PSI your wallet is already suck up or running away for its life. I will try and find a picture of the diff gage

Mine felt cooler to the touch on this last 3000 mile trip stopping and feeling it with my hand than a trip at the same time of year and same ambient temps before I put the dinner cooler on it.
 
Mine felt cooler to the touch on this last 3000 mile trip stopping and feeling it with my hand than a trip at the same time of year and same ambient temps before I put the dinner cooler on it.



Not scientific enough. Come back when you have hard data. ;)
 
No rear cover will make your diff run cooler.. More fake info..its this simple... unless you install a plate and Fin cooler your diff will run the same temp. The only change you will see is the additional lube will TAKE LONGER to heat. So Guess you could make claims of running cooler for a time That's it. All My Big trucks form 2500 Up All have Rear diff temp sensor . The pictures are Trutrac.. If you look you will see the lead wire for the sensor.

The finned cover maybe will run 10-20F lower for longer periods of time but the Lube will reach MAX temp vs use and load.

The plate and fin cooler was installed on My twin turbo setup. I have live gages for all the fake EVIC readings OIL PSI / Oil Temps Etc. Some of the readings are correct.. The 5.9 / 6.7 / 3.0 PSI form the EVIC are false. they all have a switch that will trigger CEL at 10 PSI, at that PSI your wallet is already suck up or running away for its life. I will try and find a picture of the diff gage

Is your oil pressure Sensor on your ISB?

Is the sender In the top of the filter arm/moumt?
 
I installed FAST coolers on my g56 thinking they would keep the fluid cooler.

Was I mistaken in my rationale?

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Yes... did you install any type of sensor to verified...Unless You have some type of Heat transfers ,, Plate and fin or tubolator Design.. All exchangers do just that exchange energy.. How is it possible for blocks bolted to the casing to exchange or transfer the Heat. It will take longer to heat the additional surface and lube, But again it will reach the operating/ running Temp , Load vs heat whatever energy is created the lube will need to absorb the heat...reduce the load will reduce the energy reducing heat... https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/251476-Fast-Cooler
 
The blocks have find on them. Not thin fins, but somewhat thicker fins.

The heat transfer coefficient of aluminum is pretty effictive. That's why I thought my aluminum differential cover and fast coolers (although the g56 is all aluminum casing) would transfer heat to the ambient pretty well.

In fact, That's why Mercedes decided to make the g56 aluminum.... because it transfers heat better than iron???? At least that's what the argument is in several reviews
 
Its not that difficult to install sensors Just like I did to compare before and after results. Unless You can provide some facts..I stand By My findings. O their My findings..No guesses or some of type marketing hype. It would Not be fare for me to speculate Why Mercedes changed Material..... their are many reasons Why... its easier and cheaper to Cast, faster to machine, its lighter,etc.
 
Not scientific enough. Come back when you have hard data. ;)

exactly. shoot it with an infrared temp tester or something a little more objective than how it feels in yer fingers. LOL. in the end the diff is one of the most reliable devices on a vehicle..
 
How is it possible for blocks bolted to the casing to exchange or transfer the Heat. It will take longer to heat the additional surface and lube, But again it will reach the operating/ running Temp , Load vs heat whatever energy is created the lube will need to absorb the heat...reduce the load will reduce the energy reducing heat... https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/251476-Fast-Cooler

Heat sinks work for electronics....they work. I could see the MagHytec cover with minimal fins not doing much, but did you test the nice deep finned factory cover?
 
No on the deep ban...They would work for electronics', What wire transmits more energy Solid core or strand wire, Strand and core will carry the same vs size, strand will transmit heat faster because the surface area is more. Now if you could bolt bigger surface coolers to the casing it would transmit the heat..If you had 1 ft additional on each side the surface area will loose more heat.. Trial and error would be the only process I can come up with to find How big the additional area would need to Be.. I can speculate BIG.

Yep You see those huge Coolers at transfer stations ,look at the size and surface area of the Fins.

Plate fin.jpg
 
It is sound science that aluminum will transfer heat more quickly, and adding more surface area will make that more effective.....but the difference is not huge.
 
Hi Y'all

I'm new to this forum, so please forgive any mistakes.

I have a 2016 Ram 3500 SRW FWD Laramie which I use to tow a fifth wheel (GVWR 16,500 lbs). I also have the Aisin transmission upgrade. So far, everything is bone stock.

Getting ready to service my drive-train and was looking for some recommendations/experience in this area.

First off, I am considering replacing both differential covers with some aftermarket ones that will allow for easier service in the future (drain plugs which Ram conveniently left out). How can I determine which differentials I have so I can get the correct covers for my axles? I don't care about "fancy", just functionality.

Also, was wondering what I might find when I pull the covers off, gaskets or RTV? Is one really better than the other? Not knowing any better, my inclination is to go with RTV since I don't plan on cracking the pumpkins open much afterwards.

Also, hoping to hear experiences you guys have had with various differential fluid brands and viscosity? Again, from the little bit of online research I've done, it looks like Amsoil 75w-140 might be one of the better choices for my situation.

All advice and recommendations seriously welcome.

Thanks

Mike:confused::rolleyes::D
I have the same truck and am getting ready to change my differential fluid for the first time also and was wondering if you decided to go with the Amsoil 75w-140? Did you use an additive as well?
 
IMO, unless used for commercial or severe use 75-140w is just to heavy. If you live in cold climate No way would use 75-140w
 
As I mentioned just look on AMZ/OIL site. 75-110 SevereGear is what you should use if towing heavy or frequently.

Leave front cover alone. Replace rear with Mopar aluminum cover. No additive required.
 
the gaskets on the Ram Diff's are re useable...so unless you damage them when removing the diff cover, out a little grease on them and re use them and they will come right off next time around.
as far as synthetic gear oils go, believe it or not they are all pretty much the same.
I know people get hung up on certain brands but fact of the matter is its a lubricant that has to
put up with shear and pressure but it doesn't have to put up with combustion by products..

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NO, synthetics are NOT all the same! The MOPAR is CRAP as proven by my Blackstone report. ZERO grabbing with the AMZ/OIL compared to the MOPAR.
 
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