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Front Axle Disconnect

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Where did you put yours?

Greasable 2008?

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I addition to the problems associated with turning a corner with a locked alle (or set of locked axles), almost all four-wheel-drive vehicles are slightly overdriven in the front drivetrain (a lower numerical gear) - in other words the front wheels are designed to turn ever so slightly faster than the rear ones. This is done in order to help keep the vehicle from wanting to "swap ends" as could happen if the front ever turned slower than the rears.

This is no problem on low traction surfaces or even marginal ones like wet roads, but try it on dry asphalt and you are bound to cause somethin to bind up...
 
Dodge trucks will need front hub bearings,
also the non cad trucks are turning lots of front drivetrain mass when not engaged. ( another unneccesary wear item and loss of MPG. )

SO: to me the hub conversion seems a worthwhile mod.

I am pleased with my 02 conversion... . to me it was worth the
1300 . But , when you want 4x4 operation, you do need to
get out of the truck ( good exercise )
 
Dodge trucks will need front hub bearings,

also the non cad trucks are turning lots of front drivetrain mass when not engaged. ( another unneccesary wear item and loss of MPG. )



SO: to me the hub conversion seems a worthwhile mod.



I am pleased with my 02 conversion... . to me it was worth the

1300 . But , when you want 4x4 operation, you do need to

get out of the truck ( good exercise )



ASOLUTELY:

Being able to use two wheel drive low range is only one (small?) benefit to having after market free spin hubs.

IMO it is a good example of Dodge being penny wise and dollar stupid. I would have bought a new Dodge\Cummins years ago had that been an option.

I love mine, and I'm getting a solid one MPG better (hand calculated) after five thousand plus miles on them.
 
Which hubs are you guys using? I followed the thread on here a while ago for a group buy. Is that the company you guys all went with?
 
Which hubs are you guys using? I followed the thread on here a while ago for a group buy. Is that the company you guys all went with?

I also used the EMS kit.

After calling them and getting on their waiting list, they called about 7 or 8 weeks later and said they were in. I paid by credit card Mon. and they were on my porch Fri. UPS ground.

I installed them in my garage, ( 1st one 6hrs-2nd one 3hrs) using hand tools ( I had to buy a special spanner socket at local auto parts store).

I did have to make two phone calls to EMS with questions, and they were very helpful.
 
The transfer case in our trucks have no "center differential" THANK GOD! It, center differential, allows for difference in axel speeds between the front and rear diffs. If you had an old full size Chevy Blazer with "Full time 4wd", If you got the front or rear axel stuck or high sided, You were S. O. L. #@$%!You might as well had a one legger rear axel!

When you have a "locked" transfer case as our trucks and other TRUE 4X4's have, if one axel turns slower or faster than the other, the axels and tires are forced to slip or hop on the road surface.

Clear as MUD... . Eh?



The old NP 203 t'case was full time four wheel drive. It had a center diff. And the statement above is only true to a point. It DID have a lock in hi and low. You could put it in 4 low and back up a trailer with no problem, little or no binding. And if you got in a pinch, you just put it in lock. It was a TRUE 4x4. I know. I had a '76 Suburban.



SOLER
 
geon's has a kit like you guys are talking about. I stopped on a hill with a 7k trailer on a 45-50% slope and tried to go up> fteri hit 3k rpm i kicked it to 4wd low an cruised up it at a little above idle!! i am interested in this to.
 
I addition to the problems associated with turning a corner with a locked alle (or set of locked axles), almost all four-wheel-drive vehicles are slightly overdriven in the front drivetrain (a lower numerical gear) - in other words the front wheels are designed to turn ever so slightly faster than the rear ones. This is done in order to help keep the vehicle from wanting to "swap ends" as could happen if the front ever turned slower than the rears.

This is no problem on low traction surfaces or even marginal ones like wet roads, but try it on dry asphalt and you are bound to cause somethin to bind up...

The Dodge has identical ratios front and rear. When I race my truck I put it in 4 Hi and run it up to 100 mph with no problems.

If you're going straight 4 low is not a problem on hard surfaces but turning is not good. You can feel the drivetrain bind up and something has to give. Usually it's the tires but why put all that strees on the driveline and suspension.

Some trucks do have slight differences like if it were running a Dana and corporate axle on the same truck and they didn't have an exact match they pick the closest available (has to be within a few percent). I've also read that some people who run dunes intentionally run different ratios for better performance while racing up dunes.
 
Ok the free wheeling hub kits are a bit pricey but when you look long term better fuel mpg, less wear and tear on all the front end parts ;U joints drive shafts, transfer case, the $1400-$1800 is not all that bad.
 
I installed an EMS kit about a 1. 5 years ago. Totally pleased with their product and customer service. I don't know how much fuel I've saved over the mileage that I've driven, but the peace of mind that I have about less wear/tear on my front end is worth it to me.



I haven't yet needed 2wd LOW, but when the time comes, I suppose it'd be worth it too. And, you can't go wrong pimping out your truck!! :D:D



Wayne
 
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