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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Front Axle Seal

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I posted this question on another axle seal post, should have posted my own question.



I am changing the right front axle seal on my 2000 2500, 4wd. The wheel bearing assembly does not want to come off and I'm not sure what I'm in for once I get the axle shaft out of the housing.

has anyone tackled this ??????
 
So you've got the rotor off, right? I think they made the rotors separate starting in 2000. Then, you need to loosen the 4, 12 point bolts on the backside of the knuckle. There are several schools of thought for this next part, but I'll tell you how I did it.

I left the 4, 12 point bolts threaded into the hub, but sticking out loose.



Put a BIG 2 jaw puller on the hub flange, pushing against the axle. (The 1 11/16th" axle nut was broken loose and taken off while still on the ground w/ the tire on)



Tighten the puller 'sort of tight' to put pressure on the hub assembly. If you tighten it too much, it might pull the bearing apart. ( I would guess I had about 40 ftlb on it)



Then, I did three things to help work the hub assembly out of the knuckle. 1. I put the socket with extension on the 12pt bolts and beat on the extension with a 2lb mini sledge. 2. Wedged the socket/extension(s)/breaker bar against something on the knuckle or frame (while the other end was on the 12pt bolt) and had my wife start the truck and turn the steering. This uses the power steering to essentially press off the hub. 3. Beat on the circumference of the knuckle to deform the hole so the hub assembly can vibrate out. This will probably only work if you do it in conjunction with the puller.



It all took about an hour from when I loosened the 4, 12pt bolts to when the hub was free.



Reassemble with lots of anti seize.



I can't tell you about the seal. Haven't had to do that one yet.
 
Szabo, So, after you got the hub off, how did the rest of the seal change go?

I have a passanger seal leaking, but it is a pretty small leak.

Andre
 
Guys, I had a leaky right seal too. I found a wealth of information on the TDR prior to picking up a wrence or hammer. The easiest thing is sometimes the hardest to do. The best suggestion I received was to "wait and see how it goes if it's not too bad". Mine wasn't too bad, so I waited . . . it stopped leaking. The suggestion/education I received was (short as possible) the seal is designed to keep oil in - not dirt out. What happens is when you go off road or get snow & dirt packed in the knucle area junk gets pushed past the seal. Drain the oil, clean what you can see of the gear case area and refill w/fresh oil. The one fellow responding to my post said once he took his apart the tube was packed with dirt and debris. He had to totally disassemble the front axel to cleen it properly - the worst part, as he stated, was he had no other option but to re-assemble with the original (inferior design) seals which, in his opinion, would only continue to keep the oil in and allow dirt to invade the axel assy. I wonder what the new American axel used on the 3rd gens are like??? Could it be that DC did something good without realizing it????
 
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