2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Front Axle Tube Leaking Fluid around Axle!

[okayred]

My truck (below) is leaking differential fluid around the axle on the front driver side axle tube.



Does anyone have the shop time estimate for replacing the axle seal?



Does anyone have a part number for the seal?



I went to Rock Auto and it was about $22. 00 for a new seal.



Can I drive it in 2WD with this going on, or do I need to shut down and gitter fixed?



Any help would be great. Thanks.



JP

 

[DieselDoghouse]

If my guess is right its an involved fix—the seal has a garter spring around it which may have broken or moved. the seal is located in the differential requiring removal of the guts to get at it. This is unlike the right side where the seal is on the inboard CAD box. Yes you should be able to drive it but watch the differential for going dry (unlikely). There are some here who have left them alone and had the leak stop itself up??

 

[okayred]

Good to know. I just had the 4. 10s replaced less than 500 miles ago.



Do you think that the shop that installed the 3. 73s might have damaged that seal?

 

[Pavemen]

if the diff work was recent, it could be damaged during the work or it could be residual gear oil in the tube after removing the shafts and its finally making its way out.

if the work is older then the seal is likely gone bad from dirt/debris and is leaking.

here is my write-up on doing the driver side seal in a D44, its basically the same with the 60.

PavementSucks.com - Truck Tech - Dana 44 Axle Seal Replacement - Dodge, Ram, 4x4, 4 wheel drive, 4wd, off road, off-road, wheeling, trails, DIY, trucks, Chevy, Ford, clubs, mud bog, rockcrawling, Toyota, Gallery, mud, rocks, readers rides, full-size,

If the seal is bad enough that the spring in it is running on the shaft you can score the shaft seal surface and the new seal wont seal right
. then you need a new shaft.

 

[DieselDoghouse]

Didn't know there were recent fingerprints but yes—what Paveman says. sliding the axle shaft into that seal can knock the garter off—especially if no one rechecks it before sealing the pumpkin. There can be residual oil in the tube but since it should be a dry tube you could flush it out. Also if synthetic oil was used it will find holes fossil oils won't.

 

[okayred]

Thanks for the replies. I just got it back from the Trans/Diff shop. Thats about the only work I won't do myself (mostly because I don't have the tools and experience).



They charged me for 3hours and $10 for a new seal. But - I also asked them to change the differential fluid to Amsoil (after 500mi), front and rear, and also to check transmission/transfer case oils. They did all the labor within the 3 original hours quoted. I feel like they might have screwed it up, but it doesn't matter, its fixed, checked for correct wear-in, and all fluids are full and contained. I feel pretty good about it. Their shop labor is only $45/hr.

 

[rotohead]

Thanks for the replies. I just got it back from the Trans/Diff shop. Thats about the only work I won't do myself (mostly because I don't have the tools and experience).

They charged me for 3hours and $10 for a new seal. But - I also asked them to change the differential fluid to Amsoil (after 500mi), front and rear, and also to check transmission/transfer case oils. They did all the labor within the 3 original hours quoted. I feel like they might have screwed it up, but it doesn't matter, its fixed, checked for correct wear-in, and all fluids are full and contained. I feel pretty good about it. Their shop labor is only $45/hr.

You should feel very fortunate with that deal. Where I live it would be almost twice that shop rate and double the time to do the repair.
I'm eyeing my axle since I replaced ball joints, axle ujoints, wheel bearing hubs and control arms. I've got a 'seep' not even bad enough to drip oil on the ground but is slinging oil in the inside of the tire when in motion. I'm hoping it will settle down and stop leaking but am preparing to buy a case spreader and seals to do it myself. It can't be to hard to do.
Chuck

 

[CTD12V]

Wow, $45/hr?! That is dirt cheap these days. I just replaced both axle seals in Feb. Just for kicks and grins I called the local ****** after I finished to see how much they would have raped me for if I had had them do it, and after he looked it up, he quoted me about $70 parts (most of that was diff fluid) and 7. 5 hrs labor at $95/hr, I believe it was. I tried not to laugh, and then asked him how much it would be if they replaced all 4 ball joints, tie rod ends, and drag link while they were in there. He said, "Well, I'm not sure, we don't usually get requests to do that--I'll have to look that up. " He couldn't even give me a firm quote on parts cost, but it ended up being close to $3000 with labor. After that, I didn't feel so bad about it having taken me 3 days to do the job myself.