Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Front axle u-joint replacement ?'s

[plangone]

The u-joints on my front axle need to be replaced asap. They click pretty bad when turning now. I understand the general procedure. My question is:



Do I need to separate the ball joints to get the axle out, or will it fit through the hole where the hub assembly normally lives?



Any other tips to pass along regarding this procedure?

 

[Joe G.]

I just did the passenger's side on my '95. The axle assembly comes out thru the hub ok. Mine was on there really tight. I had to use a large slide hammer to get it to come out. From what I have read here the sealed bearing sometimes separates. For some miracle that didn't happen to me. I did hose down the whole mess the night before with liquid wrench. I dunno if that helped or not, but it can't hurt. One thing that happened to me was that NAPA sold me the wrong U-joint. The correct one is about four inches from the end of one leg to the other. I think the one they sold me was for the gasser.

 

[BHaner]

Yep

Just pull the axles out the hole after you remove the hub nut, and hub. I used an impact wrench to remove the nut, removed the four bolts on the back of the hub assembly (just a 12 point 9/16's) and pulled the whole axle out. It only took me about 15 mins to get bolth sides out. Was much easier than I was thinking before i started. I need to replace my axle oil seals now... same thing but i think the carrier must be removed to get to them. Best of luck. Byron

 

[illflem]

What the service manual doesn't say

No need to remove the ball joints. The worst thing that can happen is having the unit bearing frozen to the axle stub. Leave one of the four bolts behind the rotor loosely in place while working to free it otherwise the whole axle with the heavy rotor still attached can come out at once damaging the seal. Soft hammer pounding the axle while rotating the rotor usually will free it but sometimes you need to resort to penetrating oil or heat to bust it loose. Make sure to use anti-seize on reassembly even if it comes apart easily, you don't want that problem at later date. Remove/install the axle carefully to avoid seal damage. You may have a slow leak for awhile but it will usually clear up within 500 miles.



If you jack one side real high so the lube flows to the other side right before you are ready to remove the axle from the differential you can avoid lube running past the seal and staying in the tube causing what may look like a leak for quite some time after the truck is level.



The rest is pretty straight forward.

 

[baby.driver]

Auto Zone has PDQ part # 3-0332 for the U- joint.

Are you sure you're not due for the ball joints as well?

As for removal, I took the four bolts out from behind the backing plate and replaced them with hex head bolts only partially installed and beat on them alternately to push the assembly off the axle housing.



Jay

 

[plangone]

Thanks for all the tips guys. It doesn't seem like too bad of a job now.



Next question: What do you recommend for u-joints? I was thinking the Dana Spicers from Napa.

 

[Jeff Knight]

I don't think the ones from NAPA have grease fittings. Try the ones from Auto-Zone. you will only have to change them one time if you get them with grease fittings. Jeff

 

[BHaner]

Car Quest

The ones i got from car quest Have grease fittings.

 

[illflem]

There is debate over whether greaseable joints are weaker than non-greaseable since the greaseable ones have hollow galleys in the cross. Folks who use their trucks in heavy duty applications prefer the OEM Dodge joints. My feeling is if you don't offroad or sled pull go for greaseable Spicers from Napa.

 

[Extreme1]

I would do the ball joints while you're there. Do a search for some tips I've written about it in the past.

 

[plangone]

Is it really necessary to remove the axle from the hub assembly? I am not sure, but I imagine you can pull it out as one big piece and still be able to swap out the joint. The rotor might get in the way, but if not, and you can get the joint area into the jaws of a vise, you should be all set, right? wrong?



If you do have to remove the axle from the hub, is there enough movement to allow you to drive the shaft in while the hub is still bolted in place? If not, then I will be holding onto the hub/rotor assembly with one hand and driving the axle out of it with the other.



Just trying to figure out the best way to do this.

 

[Joe G.]

It's a big u-joint. I used my press to change it. My vise is pretty big but I don't think it's big enuff to handle that u-joint plus the sockets necessary to do the job. Even if you could do it with your vise I don't think there is enuff room to do it without taking the whole mess off the truck.

 

[Jeff Knight]

the axle should slide right out of the hub assembly. I don't think you will be able to change the u joint with the hub ass attached. you might damage the seal try to take the whole ass out as a unit. Just my thoughts. Jeff

 

[bighammer]

Separating the hub from the axle is not the problem. The Hub and bearing assembly seem to rust themselves to the knuckle. Lat time I had mine apart, I was replacing the rotors, so I just beat on 'em. I wonder if a rubber mallet would help knock them loose without damage

 

[illflem]

Removing the axle from the diff with the rotor attached would be a royal PITA, you would likely damage the seal either taking it out or putting back not to mention the rotor getting in the way while dealing with the u-joint. I've never had a bearing frozen to the axle real bad, some have. Like I said before remove all the hub unit bolts but leave one in loosely to prevent the whole mess from falling out, tap on the axle while rotating. Rotating seems to be the key. I use a four pound copper hammer. One of the first ones I did I didn't rotate, was getting nowhere, rotated it just a little and it almost fell off.

 

[JHalderman]

Front axle U-joint replacement

Once you take the 4 bolts out of the hub, I used a 3-jaw puller to remove the hub/rotor assembly from the axle shaft and the axle came out real easy, no banging ,no mess. It's really a simple proceedure, just do what Illflem said and make sure you jack the truck up high on the side you're doing first so the fluid stays in the axle shaft. John.