Front Brake Pull!!!!!!

[JBournes]

My truck is pulling to the right. i have made sure it wasnt the allignment or something loose in the front end. I have replaced the pads, rotors, calipers, and the brake lines that go from the axle to the calipers. does anyone have any ideas or, have had this problem. Its becoming very upsetting







JEB

 

[Bluebird]

Pulling, right...

Yea, mine is doing it too, and I have not done anything. All the suspension componets look fine. I'll take any ideas... Thanks, Patrick.

 

[JBournes]

Well dont start tring to fix yours yet, im not goin to tell you how much ive spent on all these parts so far and hasnt changed a thing. So maybe only one of us will have to go through this the expensive way. I just hope someone has some insight on the issue and can help us both.



JEB

 

[paccool]

This will probably sound stupid but make sure you bleed them real good! Air in one side can cause pull like what you have.

 

[Paychk]

Have you used to correct hi-temp lube on the calipers? where they slide on the mounting brackets? This will let each caliper grab the rotors with both pads. This is impossible when the caliper seizes to the mount.



Hope you find the problem!

 

[BushWakr - RIP]

A very common and recurring problem is the front caliper slides... . they dry up quickly or become "gummed up".

Also the calipers are single piston and that is always a factor in these things...



I discovered, by accident, that the brake adjustment on the rears can contribute to the pulling.

You need to jack up the rear end, then adjust the brakes manually until they drag noticably. Once they do that, hold the "ratchet lever" off, and back the adjuster off a couple "ratchets".



When you're done, take it out on the street and do some darn hard reversing/braking, repeatedly. I also applied the brakes with both feet, then built up some RPM/boost, and released... ya, I spun a tire or two, but as I shot backwards I'd stab the brakes as hard as I could.

Do it frontwards in between, back and forth. You're trying to lock them up if you can...



It seemed to fix my pulling really well,,,, for how long I don't know.



Bob.

 

[RamAZ]

Brake Pull

Other than not having the ways lubed properly and the wheel bearing adjuste correctly I would say there is still air in the calipers. I recently replaced my front brakes as you did and it took a long time to get the air out of the front calipers. You will be surprise the amount of air you will get out of the calipers after they have been used for awhile.



After a second bleeding of the calipers they are just great, stop straight as an arrow. I also used DOT-4 fluid, boiling temperature is a little high.



Jim

 

[JBournes]

Ok well thanks everyone for all of the info. Still no luck so far i think i will try bleeding the left to see if i can get any air out of it. Because to me the left isnt workin as well and the right is workin damn good. So maybe this will help. About the lube on the calipers, well its on there i made sure of that, so im hoping the bleeding of the left helps. if not ill let you know. Again thanks for all of your replies

 

[CDegner]

Like BushWakr said, I ahve found the back brakes to be the culprit in causing the truck to pull more than anything else. I am constantly having to adjust my rear "self-adjusting" (yeah, right ) brakes.



Next brake change, I plan on changing out to the 3" shoes and larger wheel cylinders.



Carl

 

[Bluebird]

Pulling brakes...

Thanks for all the replys and info, I'll look into all the items noted. Any step by step for changing front pads on a 2X4. This will be my first time on the Ram, Patrick.

 

[jbolt]

FWIW- my pull went away when I replaced the upper kingpin bushings.



Jay

 

[hdm48]

Mine does pull a little now and then but it used to be severe. What I did to stop it was I installed the calipers without pads or lube and slid then in and out to check to see if they had equal slide tension. They did not. So, I used a tapered machinists stone and reworked the slides untill they were equal. Lubed them with silicone disc brake lube. No more pull.

But this does not rule out the rears. When ever I get pulling now, it's coming from the rears. Adjust them and it's back to normal.

I really like Bobs idea though. It does help adjust the rears and it also proves to your neighbors that your nuts.



Dave

 

[bvanetten]

Is it consistantly pulling to the right? Or does it switch sides on ya. Mine would pull randomly to either side. All new front equipment didn't help. Rebuilt rear's helped for a while but the problem would come back. I would adjust the rears again only to help for a while. Ends up the rear drums were close to being out of tolerance. Fed up with the whole mess I put rear disk on and it stops like a dream now. I got the kit (from TSM) delivered for around $540. Well worth the money.



Bruce

 

[cerberusiam]

bvanetten,



Do you have the kit numbers you used to do that conversion and the weight rating of your rearend? The last time I checked TSM did not have a kit for anything but the lighter (5000) Dana 60. The heavier rated rearends have a bigger shoulder on the studs and they had not figured out a conversion for them yet. My rears are shot and have been waiting patientlt (not!) for a decently priced rear disk conversion.

 

[bvanetten]

I don't have the info handy. I have a Dana 70 out of a 1990 one ton single rear wheel. Give them a call and they will be able to get you the right kit.

 

[Wayno]

Mine was pulling to the right . It drove me craaaaaazy . I change everything and I mean everything ~~~~~~~~ except the shocks and when I put the best Monroe shocks on it that money could buy it stop pulling to the right .

 

[RCMiller]

Check the rear brakes-

the bolt that holds the ebrake arm on rustup in the bushing which makes the rear brakes work poorly to check you can loosen the bolt above the bleeder scew. .

if you pull anything you should put the next size wheel cly & 3" shoes if 3/4 use 1ton this is a fatory fix.

to make your rear wheels lock up disconect the antilock by unpluging it behind the glove box (no more speeding up on bumps when brakeing).

if you have new rotors turn again now can be done on truck (after you fix rears).

after owning 4 of these 91,92,92,93 all the above will need done. Rick

 

[Bluebird]

Pulling and wondering...

Okay, a lot has been written on brakes pulling, my truck does wonder to the right without applying the brakes. Anyone have the same experience, any ideas? Thanks for all the details in the previous posts... Patrick.

 

[bflood]

Me too - pulls to the right on hard braking. This info will help me track it down. Thanks all!

Bruce

 

[PPeters]

TSM Brakes

bvanetten, cerberusiam:



I put on TSM's 3 months ago, they asked many questions about rear axle rating, I answered, they sent kit. The only thing needed was to take the wheel studs and *slightly* turn the heads down to fit the rotors (like a 32nd total). Everything else was fine, except they needed to send three sets of calipers before I got a pair that didn't leak from the banjo fitting



Also, they didn't send the correct axle shaft bolts (heads were too small, had to reuse mine). I called, they said oops, but would not send new ones, "... just reuse your old ones"



I had to purchase the kit with parking brake, so my price was much higher than $540. On the up side, once adjusted properly, muuuuch better stoppiing



If I were to do again, I think I would go to EGR. You pay a little more, but I have spoken with both organizations and they response was better from EGR. Live and learn.



The above is my opinion, your mileage my vary... .



Pat