Front Driveshaft = Grenaded

[rbattelle]

What did you paint it with? Looks good.

Ryan

 

[Cattletrkr]

No joke, I painted it with a can of "el cheapo" spray paint that has to be at least 10 years old. It's old Ford Red enamel. Paint was on and in front of a shop heater for about two hours and it was still sticky when I installed the shaft. Self etching primer underneath and lotsa runs from my overpainting as usual. Stupid thing is ya can't see it 'cause it's hidden completely by the frame. Now the rear shaft, that'd be cool. Might be a bit of a pain to clean it up, but I have a lot of free time this time of year.

 

[bighammer]

Well, not really grenaded, but the CV joint is destroyed. The ball in the center broke. A local driveling shop told me to just get a new one, it's cheaper. Only place I could find one is the dealer. They're getting the back shaft w/ knuckel assembly, should be in Fri. AM.

Anyone else ever had this happen? I don't use 4wd too much and NEVER when going down the road. The most abuse mine gets is when I go into 4-low if I need to slow down backing my trailer. The u-joints around the ball went out about 43K back, but this time they appear to be OK. Or at least as OK as they can be given the circumstances.

Why would this be a problem? Any ideas as to what can cause this to be a repeat problem? I don't care to have to replace it again.

I felt a vibe Mon night. It got progressively worse and eventually I had to pull off the freeway. As I was slowing to a stop, I thought something was about to explode. I had to look at the tach to see if the engine was running 'cause the shaft was making so much noise. Grabbed a maglite and looked underneath. No puddles and the transmission and diffs were relatively cool to the touch. I ended up driving at about 8mph for 3-4 miles until I could get into a big parking lot. Crawled underneath again and wiggled the shaft and just laughed. Not much guess work as it moved probably 1/2" side to side.

Dad was on his way with a backup '03 CTD (his). In the meantime I decided to start taking the shaft out. I had all the tools except the Torx, which dad had in his truck. Long story longer, I managed to get 6 of the 8 bolts out, 2 on the front weren't going to budge. Dad pulled my trailer home and we came back with a flatbed to haul my baby home. Dropped it off in the mechanics lot at 1:30am Tues. Later (obviously) it took the mechanic all of 10 minutes to pop the bolts.

I'm trying to remember for sure, but I think that's the first time in 287K of driving a CTD that I've been stranded. I guess I can't complain too much.

If the pics turn out I'll post them.

Mine just did nearly the same thing. I though it was just a bad joint in the double-jointed doohickey. I tried to get the shaft out and the 2nd TORX-me-off bolt decided to be stubborn. The bit slipped and lost a tooth. I got a new bit and got the other 2 out and worked again on that last one. I ended up removing the sid plate, rear bolst, then the band clamp and rubber boot so I could slide off the rear part of the shaft.

I knocked the joints apart and maybe 3 caps (of 9) had any grease to speak of. I decided to just pitch the whole thing because it was obviously going to be a nearly impossible task to get it all back together. I got out my grinder to remove the other half. After the bolt head was gone, I put Vise Grips on the protruding stud and it wouldn't budge. I let it soak for a bit and ground a couple crude "flats" on it as the Vise Grips had been slipping.

I noticed, while getting intimate with the underside of my truck, I had a big heavy blanket-like body sort of laying on the transmission. It was soaking wet and embedded with dirt and junk, and still sort of attached to the underside of the cab in places. It came off pretty easily. (in pieces) I'm thinking the skid plate might have a spot out in our woods util I have the urge to go "rock crawling" or driving over woodpiles.

 

[bighammer]

Our road is a steep one-lane road up to our driveway, and using 4wd even when it's not slippery helps to keep it intact, so I use 4wd almost every day. Mileage is only 62k.

 

[Cattletrkr]

The front torx are lock-tite'd from the factory. A little heat should pop them pretty easily. I don't carry a torch in my truck or else I woulda tried that.

 

[jwilliams3]

When the front shaft went bad did you ever get a clunk out of the front end when loading or unloading the drivetrain?

 

[bighammer]

I was getting a sort of grinding and clicking when I would climb the hill. I just put it on going up and go back to 2wd to turn in the drive. Going out, I would often put it in 4wd to go down because there's an up on the other side and back to 2wd before the STOP sign.

 

[rbattelle]

I tried to get the shaft out and the 2nd TORX-me-off bolt decided to be stubborn. The bit slipped and lost a tooth.

I got out my grinder to remove the other half. After the bolt head was gone, I put Vise Grips on the protruding stud and it wouldn't budge. I let it soak for a bit and ground a couple crude "flats" on it as the Vise Grips had been slipping.

I've started some work on my front driveshaft (I suspect the joints are toasted) and found that the torx screws at the front axle flange are secured with permanent (red) Loctite. The easiest way to remove them without damage is to heat them up (Loctite says 490°F for 5 minutes). I used one of those little Butane torches.

The rear cap screws that secure the shaft to the transfer case flange are secured with medium strength Loctite (blue). Theoretically, they can be removed without heating.

For reference, the front bolts are M8x1. 25 with T40 heads. Rear bolts are 7/16-14 hex cap screws with 5/8" heads.

Ryan

 

[Semicrazy]

Does anybody have the Dodge front drive shaft part number? I have not been able to find it by searching?



The part numbers for the napa joints and ball kit I found in another thread add up to a little over 100 dollars. Throw my time to fix the shaft and I am thinking it might be worth it to pick up a new shaft since I already have 151K miles if we can get them for around 200. Plus I will have a spare this way.



I need to do something, the CV has a lot of play and I get a revolution thud when in 4wd.

 

[Cattletrkr]

The guys at the driveline shop told me once the center ball goes ka-blooey, you don't fix it. The kits for CV's are only for when the joints go out and the ball is good. There's some little pieces in the ball that can be replaced, but the ball itself cannot. If they had the proper equipment they could have cut the whole head off, welded a new one on and probably charged me more than the new shaft cost.

I had a slight vibe all day long and then the night when it went completely, I literally came to a grinding halt. I could still move but man was it harsh. If you look at the pic you'll see not only the center busted up, but look at the left-right alignment. That sucker was destroyed.

Sorry, but I can't find the slip with the #.

 

[RussJ]

Does anybody have the Dodge front drive shaft part number? I have not been able to find it by searching?



The part numbers for the napa joints and ball kit I found in another thread add up to a little over 100 dollars. Throw my time to fix the shaft and I am thinking it might be worth it to pick up a new shaft since I already have 151K miles if we can get them for around 200. Plus I will have a spare this way.



I need to do something, the CV has a lot of play and I get a revolution thud when in 4wd.

52105933-AD SHAFT DRIVE

That's the part number I got from mine through Mopar 4 Less. $180. 00 bucks. Hope this helps!

 

[jwilliams3]

Dont forget the manuals and auto's are a different part number.

 

[Semicrazy]

52105933-AD SHAFT DRIVE

That's the part number I got from mine through Mopar 4 Less. $180. 00 bucks. Hope this helps!

RussJ,

Thank you for the part number, I am ready to order I just have one more clearification. I notice that you have a 5spd, do you or anybody know if the 5 and 6spd front shafts are the same part number?

 

[RussJ]

Hmmm? I don't know that for sure. Just be sure to ask whoever you order from. I'm pretty sure they asked me when I ordered mine. Just to satisfy my curiosity, please post whatever you find out.

 

[bighammer]

RussJ,
Thank you for the part number, I am ready to order I just have one more clearification. I notice that you have a 5spd, do you or anybody know if the 5 and 6spd front shafts are the same part number?

I just picked mine up and it's 52105932AF

Looks like it's got a spot for some grease in the center this time around. (And for the guys that complain about rusty driveshafts on their new trucks... . They come from the factory that way. )

 

[Semicrazy]

Thanks bighammer!



That is what I needed, the 6spd shaft part number.

 

[Semicrazy]

Hello Board,



I just wanted to update everyone on this issue. I went to order my 6spd front shaft from moparparts.com and I talked with Doug and he stated their price to order it now has gone up to $214. I was lucky in that since I placed the order with the old price listed he is going to give it to me for the old price of 175. But I just wanted to warn people.



It will probably be more cost effective to re-build the shaft now since with all the dealer mark ups the price at the dealers might go up to like 300 dollars:{