Front hub bearings

[Odp]

What kind of milage are yall getting before front hub bearings go bad ?

 

[RVTRKN]

The standard was around 100K, haven't seen a thread on it in a long time though. Sealed wheel bearings are usually very hard to get off as well as expensive. When my sealed wheel bearings go, I'm going to install Dyna Trac hubs.

 

[gsbrockman]

What kind of milage are yall getting before front hub bearings go bad ?

268,791 on my previous 2014 RAM 3500 Crew Cab DRW....

 

[Ozymandias]

They are not expensive, even Timken or SKFs are reasonably priced.

 

[RVTRKN]

Its the cost to change them out, especially if they are frozen on requiring a shop to perform that, at their retail prices. Compare them to a standard hub with regreasable bearings. Also the bearings set farther apart in a conventional hub, which gives it more stability. I can go through the bearings cheaper if PM's are performed as needed not having to replace them. I just went through my trailer bearings for pennies on the dollar with simple hand tools.

 

[Ozymandias]

First let me say I've got the Dynas already but only because of the 2LO Feature that they provide.
Otherwise I'd have stick with the OEM.

They are easy to replace after the first time for every DIY Worker, can be re-greased through the ABS Sensor hole and with so done last long.
The Dynas have far more parts and possibilities to fail, need maintenance to and cost 4x more.
And installing/maintenance need some good mechanical skills, seat bearings, races, seals and so on, including set preload etc.

It is not the solution for everyone, some can be way happier with the unit bearing assembly.

 

[gsbrockman]

Its the cost to change them out, especially if they are frozen on requiring a shop to perform that, at their retail prices. Compare them to a standard hub with regreasable bearings. Also the bearings set farther apart in a conventional hub, which gives it more stability. I can go through the bearings cheaper if PM's are performed as needed not having to replace them. I just went through my trailer bearings for pennies on the dollar with simple hand tools.

As much as I drive......I’d be “servicing” them every other oil change—-about every 12 weeks, sometimes sooner.

The bearing assemblies are much easier to remove and replace on the 2013 and newer axles. They actually only make contact in the housing in four areas. No more beating, bangin, torching like in the past.
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Since 2013 3500’s and 2014 2500’s have CAD....there’s nothing to gain from adding those over expensive locking hubs.

 

[jhenderson]

I needed to replace 1 at about 85K. No play but it had a rumble. I chose SKF for $220 at Rockauto. It was much easier than my 3rd gen. A couple of shots with a 3 lb hammer and it was loose.
I get my 2 wheel low from a BD 2 lo kit.

 

[JR]

Now if only they could figure out how to keep the rotors from seizing themselves up...

 

[DonFitzwater]

Now if only they could figure out how to keep the rotors from seizing themselves up...

I use Mercury 2-4-C grease on the rotors and studs as well as the duals on the rear and have so far had good luck with them not sticking.

 

[JR]

I use Mercury 2-4-C grease on the rotors and studs as well as the duals on the rear and have so far had good luck with them not sticking.

Once I get em off for the first time its not an issue...my mistake was letting them go 4 years and 100k before trying to remove them. Between the year round humidity and road treatments they're as good as welded now.
If I wasn't worried about reusing them it wouldn't have been a big deal - RBFH time

 

[Cummins12V98]

Now if only they could figure out how to keep the rotors from seizing themselves up...

Do you mean Calipers?

 

[CoastyAV8R]

I looked into greasing the bearings through the ABS sensor hole but with a sealed bearing in there, I don't understand how the grease will actually get into the bearing. Thoughts?

First let me say I've got the Dynas already but only because of the 2LO Feature that they provide.
Otherwise I'd have stick with the OEM.

They are easy to replace after the first time for every DIY Worker, can be re-greased through the ABS Sensor hole and with so done last long.
The Dynas have far more parts and possibilities to fail, need maintenance to and cost 4x more.
And installing/maintenance need some good mechanical skills, seat bearings, races, seals and so on, including set preload etc.

It is not the solution for everyone, some can be way happier with the unit bearing assembly.

 

[JR]

Do you mean Calipers?

Rotors.

 

[Ozymandias]

I looked into greasing the bearings through the ABS sensor hole but with a sealed bearing in there, I don't understand how the grease will actually get into the bearing. Thoughts?

The whole unit bearing itself is a sealed unit, inside it isnt sealed, it is >seal, bearing, tone ring, bearing, seal<
The grease goes directly into the bearings, and if it is to much grease it will seap out through the seal.
I've done this a couple times until i switched to the Dynas.

 

[CoastyAV8R]

Ahhh, nice to hear. I'll add that to my list of maint items. I assume the newer trucks still have the same sealed bearing design?

 

[RVTRKN]

I only have 75K miles on my 07, so it’s getting time to worry.

 

[Regcabguy]

All 4x4 trucks came with locking hubs in the distant past. I put 50K on my F-250 and then had them serviced. No issues ever.
Next came the auto locking hubs on the Fords and eventually sealed units.
Our Honda's going on 200K with the factory hubs. If the stock sealed units on our Rams went 200K I'd go with that.

 

[TCDiesel]

Just grease them, Some does leak out past the seal just wash it off, I have sooooo much grease in My hubs in the winter on ice packed roads the steering wheel shakes until it warms up ( About 2 miles) or on clear pavement, Some grease at 75/100K miles and have reported 300K plus on OEM bearings.

 

[DonFitzwater]

Just grease them, Some does leak out past the seal just wash it off, I have sooooo much grease in My hubs in the winter on ice packed roads the steering wheel shakes until it warms up ( About 2 miles) or on clear pavement, Some grease at 75/100K miles and have reported 300K plus on OEM bearings.

View attachment 110147 View attachment 110148

That ain’t grease making it shake, it’s flat spots on the tires.