2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Front Hubs! Grrr!

[Dieselnerd]

I've read all the search results on front hub removal so I can replace a bad U joint. I purchased a 1" 11/16 socket and a big can of PB Blaster penetrating oil. Big axle nut came off easy as did the 4 12 point bolts holding on the hub. Of course the hub is frozen on. I hate to use a puller since I don't want to separate the bearing (besides I don't have a puller that big). I've been using a socket and extension and beating on the loosened rear bolts but so far no results. Has anyone come up with any new tricks that worked well? I also bolted the wheel back on and kicked it as one poster mentioned. No luck there either. I plan on more penetrating oil and more patient beating but that gets old fast...

 

[DSiemens]

Correct me if I am wrong, but I think illflem had a post about using a 6 inch extension placed against the steering gear. Then the steering wheel was turned and the hub came out. I do not have time to search... work. Use lots of anti-seize on reassembly.



Dan

 

[Dieselnerd]

I got the hub off. After soaking in oil overnight and tapping on the bolts again it started to move a little. I tried an extension against the frame and turning the wheel without running the motor. That moved it quite a bit more. After that it came off pretty easy. Thanks for reminding me about the steering trick. I didn't come across that in the searches I did.

 

[CATCRACKER]

i maybe wrong but somone said before removing axle nut that is when you get the hub loose that way you dont have to worry about upsetting the "golden" bearing. i have never done this operation but i do have a u- joint that is out so i have been searching the process and i remeber someone mentioning this. i could be wrong. i am dreaming this?



is the nut 1-11/16 on a 3500 4x4



dieselnerd where did you but the 1-11/16 socket?



future reference a puller that big can be bought for $25 from harbor freight

 

[Dieselnerd]

Catcracker, I got the 1 11/16 socket at NAPA. It's a 3/4 inch drive for my large breaker bar. It was $32 and I've since heard that they can be found at Sears for about $17 but I don't know if that's a 3/4 drive or 1/2 drive. The nut was not that hard to get off and a 1/2 drive would have worked OK.



The round end of the bearing sticks out of the back of the hub and is a tight fit in a round hole in the steering knuckle. That's the part that gets rusted tight. Soak it in plenty of good penetrating oil overnight and you should be able to remove it.



If you leave the nut on the axle you won't split the bearing with a puller but when the hub pops out the axle shaft is still attached and you might damage the oil seal. That requires both axles to be removed as well as the gears to install the seal from the inside of the housing. If you don't at least loosen the axle nut while the wheel is on the ground you may not get it loose later. Also put it in 4 wheel drive before you start, keeps everything from turning.



Now that I've done one side that was bad, I think I'll replace the u joint on the other side too as a preventive measure.

 

[JoshPeters]

I wouldn't use a puller on those bearings. The puller pulls from the outside... inner bearing. My experience with that is... it ruins the bearing. The inside is the outer mounting surface that is stuck to the knuckle. Beating or air hammering on the 14mm bolts on the back side is the best way to remove that bearing.



Josh

PS. Removed the axle nut prior to removal of the hub like Dieselnerd said... you don't want to damage that oil seal. It's a real PITA to replace them!

 

[Extreme1]

I used a slide hammer puller. 15 minutes of pounding and off it came. I used a puller on the other side and the bearing seperated. I put grease in it and it's still tight, almost 7 years and about 135,000 mile later.



Edit: AutoZone has a slide hammer to loan but I used a friend's Snap-On.

 

[Ramafid]

The only way I could get my bearings out was with a big puller. I used penetrating oil for two weeks , pounded on the back of the bolts for a total of 10 hours and tried everything else in the book. The big puller finally got them out and that was just barely. Worst job ever of getting rusted parts apart.

 

[krs]

The best way to go is to leave the nut on, break the four bolts and back them out about 1/4". Then start the truck and use an extension or driver rod or what have you against the four bolt heads while having someone gently turn the steering your way. It'll push the hub out as far as the bolts allow as neat as you please and you can then back the bolts farther and either push or pound the hub all the way off.

If you remove the big nut and use a puller you'll likely pull the bearing hub apart and leave the seized center still seized. When you ignore this and pull your hub apart anyway it is possible to reassemble it but no one knows what the correct preload is so it'll either work, or it'll run hot and you lose a wheel/hub/brake, or it'll work loose and fling it's grease all over the place.

 

[Dieselnerd]

KRS, I plan on pulling the passenger side tomorrow to replace the other U joint as a preventive measure. I'll try your method before I start all the oil soaking.



Maybe the next person that has to remove a hub will find all these good tips in their search!

 

[Dieselnerd]

I decided to go ahead and get the job over with today instead of tomorrow. After all the work to get the drivers side hub off, the passenger side practically fell off after I gave the bolts a couple of taps with the hammer. And I mean taps, not whacks! I didn't need to try using the steering to press it off after all. Whole job took about 3 hours including coffee breaks. I sure am glad that's all done.



Anyone in the Twin Cities area needs to borrow my 3/4" breaker bar with the 1-11/16 socket to do their truck is welcome. I may not need it again for a long time.

 

[IWeiny]

Bearing question?

I did this job about 9 or so months ago. I used a puller but only to preload the hub and then wacked on the back side bolts. The bearings did not come apart but I am now hearing a rubing sound from the front end while coasting. This just started last weekend.



I only hear it sometimes and I can feel a small vibration in the wheel at the same time.



Could I have hurt the bearings? I know these are very expensive but not as expensive as them freezing up on the way down the road. I used plenty of anti sieze on the way back together so theoretically I should be able to replace the bearings pretty easy.



Any thoughts? My only other idea for the cause would be a caliper sticking. But that is why I pulled the hubs/rotors, for the EGR break up grade.



:-(

Ira



On edit I have not noticed any leakage from the bearing seals so I really don't think they separated at all.