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llotton

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There is a local station that sells a blend of 20% B20 and 80 % #2 diesel. This fuel is 20 cents less that straight #2. Would you run it in a 2003? Thanks for any and all replies Larry
 
During the summer months I run home made BIO 100% and have no problems with close to 200K on motor been using it from about 60K on ONLY DURING THE SUMMER, It gels like a SOB in the cool weather.
 
Is $0.20 going to save you more than 10% MPG loss? (Worst case on high concentrations.) In my case the cost for other complications cleanly wiped out any savings and then some. The MPG loss only added to the total cost.

I would check lift pump compatibility with methanol and/or biodiesel. I would run a fuel soluble biocide as well.

Some other things to think about: (And your question was the final inspiration to put this post together on here.)
https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/248698-ULSD-and-Biodiesel-Exposed!

Sure it can be done, but, at least know what the downsides are.
 
If you have an extra f/w sep then yes, if not then I wouldn't.

Personally my truck likes B20, quieter, more fuel pressure, and mileage is the same.
 
If you have an extra f/w sep then yes, if not then I wouldn't.

Personally my truck likes B20, quieter, more fuel pressure, and mileage is the same.


Agreed, works better for lube and makes things quiter, but, the bio is a LOT worse for holding and drawing water. You cannot trust the source so without extra filters you are running a risk.
 
Gee maybe this is why I get away with it + the one in the stock fuel filter spot that rarely needs changing

penny 327.jpg


penny 328.jpg
 
That would correct. The primary filter son the FASS do a good job of pulling the ashphaltenes from the fuel before it gets into the others. The CAT filter has hardly any black on it.
 
BIG, I would change that FS19594 for a Baldwin BF1275. The FS is only rated for 19.82gph, where the Baldwin is rated for 120.
 
BIG, I would change that FS19594 for a Baldwin BF1275. The FS is only rated for 19.82gph, where the Baldwin is rated for 120.


Im not questioning the Yoda of Filtration but is that better filtration? or better water sep, and with a stock motor would that GPH really make that much of a difference? I have never found any water in my Fuel from MT or from my BIO, but have found it when coming home from TN one time. Thanks im about ready to pick up some new filters for a service. I was told the the Fleetguard filters were the only best thing avail for my AD 100 at the time I bought them so things have changed?


Thanks BIG
 
Im not questioning the Yoda of Filtration but is that better filtration? or better water sep, and with a stock motor would that GPH really make that much of a difference? I have never found any water in my Fuel from MT or from my BIO, but have found it when coming home from TN one time. Thanks im about ready to pick up some new filters for a service. I was told the the Fleetguard filters were the only best thing avail for my AD 100 at the time I bought them so things have changed?


Thanks BIG

Yes, the stock engine makes no difference. The first filter on the AD has full flow all the time, up to 150GPH on most models. When you exceed the fitlers rated flow you reduce the filters ability to do it's job, which means water can get pushed thru the filter.

It's probably not a huge deal with a BF1212 first, assuming they are in order in the photo, but at your next change I would use a higher rated filter. The FF5613 only has a 60 GPH rating, but that's probably not a big deal on a stock truck.
 
The OP asked abiut B20 not B5. World of difference between them.

Other than a higher percentage of bio-diesel, what is the difference? I'd like to make sure I'm not doing some damage to my truck when I run the B20 stuff. So far, it acts just like normal on the B20 fuel, but I only have a few thousand miles on it.

JDoremire's post above is about his experience with B99, which seems like a much different beast than B20.
 
That is it, the higher percentages. It raises the chances of more substantial contamination if the fuel is compromised. It is not going to hurt the engine but one tank of contaminated fuel is going to raise havoc with the filters and force a tank cleaning. You have to be careful and trust the source of the fuel. The hihger percentage of bio may increased the filter pluggng also as it is going to clean things up pretty well.

Without extra filters you are relying on some less than adequate filtration to protect sensitive equipment, a little too much water and you will have $$ to spend.
 
I think only 4th gen has seals that can withstand the bio diesel solubility. Long term, could be an issue?????
 
Just to bring this full circle the fuel in question is 80% #2 Diesel and 20% B20 which if my math is wright puts the final blend at about 5% Bio. and 95% #2. How soes that work.
 
I think you may be misinterpreting what the fuel is. B20 is a blend of 20% biodiesel plus 80% petroleum diesel, not 80% petroleum diesel AND a blend of 20% bio diesel AND 80% petroleum diesel.
 
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