fuel canister top removal problems

[GARY GRISSOM]

cant get cap off of fuel filter canister

 

[EDankievitch]

The filter cap is a royal pain to remove. only thing that I have found is to use a very tight fitting 6 point socket that has been ground down so that there is No taper leading in to the socket. This helps keep it from slipping off. Then use slow and steady pressure to get the cap to turn. too much force and the socket will strip the hex part of the cap.

 

[Dman]

I use a flexible strap type wrench around the outside of the cap while applying pressure with the ratchet -socket to loosen the tough ones !

 

[2013megacab]

+1 on the 6-point socket. I had to go buy one. There is a YouTube video on how to do it that says to use a 1-1/8 socket. Mine was a 12-point and it slipped. I had to go buy a 28 mm 6-point to keep it from slipping. It was still VERY hard to turn, but it finally came off. It will be interesting to see if it is that hard the next time I change the filter. IF so I guess it was that 200 lb.ft. setting on the dealer tech's air wrench the last time I had it changed.

Al

 

[SnoKing]

28 mm 6-point 1/2" drive, universal joint, long extension and slow steady force on the ratchet. SNOKING

 

[Dieselnerd]

I just changed mine for the second time and it was just as hard as the first. I tightened it to the proper torque the last time I changed it and even put a light coat of grease on the O ring. I thought sure the cap was going to break just before it broke loose.

I use a universal joint and a long extension and I use my long handled torque wrench to remove and install the cover.

 

[Kirwin]

https://www.turbodieselregister.com...num-billet-cap-for-engine-mounted-fuel-filter

Check this thread for the real answer!

 

[KenHwy61]

Just went through this as well. I ended up using a vise grip chain pliers. It worked great and surprisingly did not ruin the cap.

 

[Cummins2014]

https://www.turbodieselregister.com...num-billet-cap-for-engine-mounted-fuel-filter

Check this thread for the real answer!

Thats certainly the answer if there is a problem. Although mine is always a bit snug, it comes off with the steady pressure.

I think most of the trouble happens with an improper socket, 28MM 6 point is the right socket. Also a straight shot on the cap, thats where a universal is a must.

I'm curious about this metal cap, does it come off easier or is less likely to break or strip the head of it. I can see someone wrecking it pretty easy with the wrong socket or not getting a straight shot on it . As said its certainly an option, but at that price I would certainly practice a little caution, and the proper way to remove the OEM . I guess if all else fails get one.

 

[Cummins2014]

I just changed mine for the second time and it was just as hard as the first. I tightened it to the proper torque the last time I changed it and even put a light coat of grease on the O ring. I thought sure the cap was going to break just before it broke loose.

I use a universal joint and a long extension and I use my long handled torque wrench to remove and install the cover.

I thought the same, and did the same, but yes it was pretty snug the second time also. Steady pressure did the trick .IMO plastic on plastic is always going to be the same, we will see on the third filter change. I didn't tighten as much this second time, will see what happens.

 

[EDankievitch]

The O ring swells and causes it to be very difficult to remove the cap. Not how tight it was installed.

 

[Cummins2014]

The O ring swells and causes it to be very difficult to remove the cap. Not how tight it was installed.

If that is the case then there is no solution other then hoping for the best

 

[DonFitzwater]

The O ring swells and causes it to be very difficult to remove the cap. Not how tight it was installed.

Unless your dealer has McGilla Gorilla working in the service department.

 

[Kirwin]

This is how I do it. I think the key is a lot of steady pressure on the cap using a tight fitting 1 1/8" 6 point socket. I use the 29 MM one from Geno's, but if I were to go back to the plastic cap I would use the 1 1/8" socket. My set up: 29MM socket 3/8" universal, 10" extension, 6 inch extension, 3/8 ratchet. Keep the extensions and universal as straight as possible, use a lot of steady pressure to get it to break free.

 

[Kirwin]

My tools:

 

[sag2]

That little ratchet does not give you much leverage.

I changed an IPR valve on a Powerstroke at the college this week and it makes the fuel cap look like your changing the oil cap. It is burried behind and under the turbo at the back of the engine. I broke one universal and finally got it lose with an impact universal, Snap-On 80 tooth flex head and a cheater bar. I'm surprised it didn't break the socket because it is split like an O2 sensor socket. Fortunately for the students we have been kept plenty busy with PS trucks. We have only worked on a handful of Cummins trucks. Never thought I would have to learn a new product after all these years doing nothing but Cummins.

 

[SnoKing]

My tools: View attachment 97391

Geno's will most likely replace your 29MM socket with the correct 28MM one. SNOKING

 

[Kirwin]

Agreed, but its the steady pressure that loosens it. If you go bigger, its harder to keep it all lined up straight and square. The socket MUST set square on the plastic cap nut.

I do like the new cap, it has a much taller nut so the socket has a lot more contact surface to hold the socket square. Harder to mess it up.

That little ratchet does not give you much leverage.

I changed an IPR valve on a Powerstroke at the college this week and it makes the fuel cap look like your changing the oil cap. It is burried behind and under the turbo at the back of the engine. I broke one universal and finally got it lose with an impact universal, Snap-On 80 tooth flex head and a cheater bar. I'm surprised it didn't break the socket because it is split like an O2 sensor socket. Fortunately for the students we have been kept plenty busy with PS trucks. We have only worked on a handful of Cummins trucks. Never thought I would have to learn a new product after all these years doing nothing but Cummins.

 

[PGAdams]

The previous post outlines the easiest method, straight down vertical approach.
I've had a 20" 1/2 drive extension for many years and I finally discovered another use for it. Place the 1 1/8 6 pt socket or it may be the 28MM, as noted above.
on top of the canister, slide the extension down next to the firewall into the socket, 1/2" ratchet, easy on, easy off.
If you don't have a 20" 1/2" extension, connect several other together.

 

[Cummins12V98]

My tools: View attachment 97391

I do the same with 1 1/8" six point socket but I use all 1/2" components. No issues with initial removed at 15K or the second one at 30K a couple days ago.