Fuel Delivery Redesign: "Project Number Two"

[rbattelle]

Well I still don't get why you're going through all of this...

Andy

I set forth the following goals in prioritized order:

1. Improve fuel filtration 5 times over stock (to 2 microns absolute)

2. Improve fuel delivery reliability and consistency (flow and pressure)

3. Improve serviceability



Plus, I love building stuff.



I have considered the overheating if I box the pump... I'd have to provide lots of heat sinks.

 

[canblue]

Has anyone given some thought to a monitoring system for the pump or pumps? I was contemplating using a 12v led to monitor that the pump is running. Sound like a good idea? Comments or suggestions welcome.

 

[rbattelle]

Has anyone given some thought to a monitoring system for the pump or pumps? I was contemplating using a 12v led to monitor that the pump is running. Sound like a good idea? Comments or suggestions welcome.

The system I'm building includes 2 fuel system monitors: one to indicate a signal is being sent from the ECM, the other to indicate the pump has power. I don't know how to wire up an LED to indicate whether the pump is actually turning, but I'll have a FP gauge to tell me that.



-Ryan

 

[canblue]

Cannot wait to see the schematics for the system. I added a second pump therefore the interest in knowing if a pump is working. I also have a FP guage. With one pump it would be rather easy to see the pressure drop. The drop would also show if one of the two pumps were dying but it would not be as obviuos thus the thoughts re: the LED. Like many before me, the pusher pump went then the injector pump took up the slack then quit. I did not have the FP guage back then. The second pump will hopefully extend the life of the fuel system. I have asked Carter for information about adding an LED to the circuit to keep an eye on the pump. I thought that the members, with all of their knowledge, might be able to help with this. Maybe there is a product in this for someone.

 

[rbattelle]

Here's a wiring diagram for the fuel system. I'm not an electrical engineer, so I apologize for the crudeness of the drawing.

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"S" is the in-cab switch. "R" is a 500 ohm resistor for the LEDs, which are 2. 2 volt 20mA models. You can find the LEDs at www.newark.com part number 559-5201-007. The relay is a double bridge type which can be found here.



For the switch "S" I'm thinking of using a toggle with a red-colored switch guard (like an arming switch).



-Ryan

 

[realsquash]

You should measure the current draw on a lift pump that is going bad or has too restricted of a filter. A pump that has to pump harder will draw more "amperage", a true measure of the health of your system.



As long as your wiring is good your indicator light on the pump power is rather useless.



Andy

 

[rbattelle]

As long as your wiring is good your indicator light on the pump power is rather useless.

Andy

I know, but it looks cool.

 

[BigEasy]

I know, but it looks cool.

A true engineer...

 

[rbattelle]

Control Panel

Here's a picture of the front face of the control panel. Red LEDs are the heater grids, green LEDs are the pump power signals, red safety switch is the LP power switch, and the gauge is a Dakota Digital fuel pressure unit.



I've almost finished the under-hood junction box. Total of five 2-pin circular connectors and one 17-pin cable connector that will route into the cab. I'm starting work on the wiring for the cab control. There's lots of extra space for future projects on the cab control. Haven't decided what else to put on it.



-Ryan

 

[LesStallings]

Labels

There's lots of extra space for future projects on the cab control. Haven't decided what else to put on it.



-Ryan

Suggestion: Label Everything. In the heat of battle you may forget what an indicator is, or in my case, have a Senior Moment.

 

[rbattelle]

Update

Yesterday I received a shipment of most of the plumbing supplies I need. This includes -6AN fittings and braided stainless steel hoses. Tonight I assembled all the pipe thread joints using a thread sealant called Swak (made by Swagelok), which takes 24 hours to cure.



The under hood junction box and the cab control box are finished. The junction box has 6 connectors and the cab controller has 1. I have tested it and it works exactly as I planned. The remaining electrical work is making the cables that will connect the heaters, pump, ECM, batteries, and fuel pressure sender to the junction box. I'm trying to find a convenient wire covering for these cables. I used spiral wrap on the big 17-wire cable between the junction box and the cab controller, but I need something that'll work better with 2-wire cables (something small). I'm probably going to get some expandable fiberglass sleeving.



I'm using a Dakota Digital FP gauge, and I am rather impressed with the unit. I wired up a momentary pushbutton I can use to set the limits on the gauge (it blinks when the pressure is outside your preset range) and a toggle switch to dim the gauge at night if I want. It's very readable, and I am genuinely impressed with the apparent quality (and the price).



-Ryan

 

[rbattelle]

Built a test rig

Here's a test rig I put together. Waiting on a shipment of wire I need to wire the pump. I won't test the system until warmer weather hits... no chance I'm working with electricity and fuel inside my garage!



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[Gauthier]

How do you plan to connect to the tank? If using the quick connect, what is the type, style or specification that defines the connector used on the stock 3rd gen tanks?

 

[rbattelle]

How do you plan to connect to the tank? If using the quick connect, what is the type, style or specification that defines the connector used on the stock 3rd gen tanks?

I'm using a stainless tee fitting with 3/8 OD tube fittings on 2 ends and a 3/8 FNPT port in the center. One end will be equipped with a valved quick disconnect to facilitate priming or fuel tank draining, the other end attaches to the 3/8 OD factory line coming from the tank (I'll cut into it right on the vehicle rather than dropping the tank).

 

[rbattelle]

Well, I discovered today that the return line to the tank is not 3/8 OD like the supply... it's 0. 315" OD. I assume, then, that the return line is 5/16 OD and I'll have to change one of my fittings as a result.



I'm still waiting for warmer weather to bench test this project...



-Ryan

 

[rbattelle]

Correction

Nope, leave it to Dodge to mix English and metric parts. When I checked my fittings supplier for 5/16 tube fittings they didn't seem to have any. But they did have 8mm OD tube fittings. 8mm just happens to be 0. 315". So I assume now the return line is 8mm OD tubing.



Of course, an 8mm OD branch tee is over $40.



Thanks, Dodge.



-Ryan

 

[rbattelle]

Possible major change

I got to thinking about building a PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) controller today. Then I found this little gem. I bought one to test. If it's workable, that would eliminate the need for a pressure regulator and allow me to vary pressure with a knob in the cab at will. Would also save wear and tear on the motor.



Almost seems too good to be true.



-Ryan

 

[hasselbach]

The Stanadyne units are great, I've had absolutely no problems with my dual set up. .

 

[Rosco]

hasselbach,



Is that setup on your D-Max or the Dodge and what did it cost?

 

[hasselbach]

contact info

hasselbach,



Is that setup on your D-Max or the Dodge and what did it cost?

Its on my dmax, and I am doing the same for the 05 dodge. Call Reliable Industries, 504-733-4120, ask for Scott. They are FM 100 with electric pumps. You can get 20-10 or 2 micro filters for the units as well.



I think they flow 80 gal an hour. If you plumb with AN like I did, drill out the fittings to the actual size of the coupler. What I did was installed a male fitting to a straight Push Lock coupler, and ran a drill through the Push Lock to open up the male fitting.



They work great, and I have a consistent 8 PSI regardless of load or level of power on my Edge box. I paid $169 a pump. One should work fine, but I went 2 just to give a little extra push.