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Fuel Filter message?

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This weekend my truck's display announced it was due for a fuel filter. It was just at about 8 K miles on filters.

Truck is 2019 3500, with 38K on it.

I went ahead and did it, and reset the filter minder, and it drove fine all weekend, though we did pass through some negative 22 degree areas. It started just fine, but it was up near zero by then.

No issues Monday, but cold here tuesday, and it didn't start. didn't even turn over, then displayed the same filter filter message, on a filter with only 300 miles or so.

I'm thinking these are unrelated issues, and maybe I have some bad fuel.

On the filter changes, how are you containing the mess? I open the drain, but it doesn't drain much of the bowl, then it just comes out everywhere as I drop the rear.

Do you ream out the drain hole with a pipe cleaner or something?

Do you put a hose on that nipple? What size if so?

I cut a scrap of garden hose to overlay the OEM drain hose up front. This helps, but seems a better idea would be to replace it with a longer vinyl tube, that stays on, but tucks out of the way for diving.

I'll put a zip lock around the rear one next time, if no-one has a better suggestion.

Are we supposed to use these valves sporadically to dump water? The water would be at the top, thus necessitating during the whole bowl for any water to be discharged, right? Thats a lot of fuel to contain. I've never done it. Knock on wood, never had a gelling issue in 22 years of diesel trucks, though my son had one in Wyoming this winter. that was a huge pain in the ass...


The dead truck, would not jump start not a hint of urning over, from the passenger side, but fired up easily form drivers side. (well both sides, as I just pulled another truck up and left both sides connected.)

I know of no battery draining even save this one, but Assume I should replace them asap to be safe?

What are guys having good luck with? I assume I should upgrade to AGM? Anything shine out as best or best replacement? I used to go Everstart as about my only Walmart purchases ever, but those dropped for 60 months to 36 month warranty. have all brands done this?

I may use Walmart out of convenience, as they install for free, and its presently single digits out, and I have no garage access.

I put the NOCO on it overnight, and it fired right up with negative temps this am. I assume it doesn't matter which side the charger goes on. I did passenger side for charger.

Remote start would not engage this am, even with batteries topped off.

Memory settings are lost, but this isn't a big surprise. This seems to have happened a few days before the no start condition, so that is odd.

I think that covers it.

Thanks,

Dave
 
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Put a piece of hose over the nipple. The water is in the bottom, hence the drain on the bottom. Put the hose on, open the valve, then crack the filter loose and as soon as it breaks the vacuum the water and fuel will drain out. That is assuming the water didn't freeze in the valve. You are supposed to drain both filters on every fill up but no one does that. I rarely drain mine, and if I do it is just a little into a glass container to check for water. Have never seen any water yet.
 
What was the error code for the remote start cancelling?

Just to confirm, the dash is telling you to change the fuel filter and not that you have water in the fuel? WIF will disable auto-start, and come on when water is detected. The change fuel filter message comes on every 15K miles, and I don't believe it will trigger early for bad fuel as there aren't any sensors on the fuel lines for pressure/flow.
 
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sag2 does it seem odd he got this message early?
Yes, if it is fact for the filter change interval. I would think that if the message was showing, the mileage to change should have been close to zero. If it was for the change message then the cluster would more than likely be the problem.
 
As best I recall with the 2013 through 2018 trucks.....a flash or an update will generally cause the fuel filter status to get out of wack. Perhaps if the OP had an update performed....this could have been the root cause of the problem.
 
It was in for replacement of 12” infotainment screen, again, but that was thousands of miles before this incident.
 
I would load test the batteries separated from each other by removing one ground. Be careful that one hasn't frozen.

The rest of your "problems" would be answered IF you find one or more bad batteries. The voltage can get so low from A bad battery dragging the other one down that the ECM will not even attempt to crank the engine. All the other issues with the fuel filter etc. can be from a bad battery.

I am using Odyssey AGM's in mine for less cable corrosion. (Odyssey, NorthStar, and Batteries Plus X2's label are all the same company now.) Maybe they will live a long life, but, I am not counting on it. Others here in Phoenix, AZ have seen them make exceptional life.
 
Thanks. I will replace the batteries this weekend.
Sounds like the AGM s are worth the extra $$.
I’m seeing $309 a piece for the northstar AGM group 34.
I assume that’s still the right size for 5th gen.
 
Batteries Plus will put 5 years on the Odyssey as well. The “free” 5 year warranty makes it worth going there.

Cost of cables that are less likely to corrode, faster charging are reasons to justify them.

Otherwise they are simply expensive for the best. Now vs. The Dealer who charges you to install batteries … anything is cheaper.
 
Thanks Tuesdak. The Napa didnt have those after a call anyway.

I thought the odyssey was the X2, but I'll look closer.
 
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