fuel filter pic.....unknown miles and 110 gallons of BioDiesel

[LightmanE300]

Rbatelle - yes that's the standard jargon I was referring to - it's all over biodiesel sites, although none of us had actually seen one clog till now!



Here ya go RB - Energy PLUS 24 - Harvest Land Co-op, Inc.

619 Sater St.

Greenville, OH 45331 Richard Giffen 937 548-1122 B2

Fuel Depot

2 McWherter Drive

Delaware, OH 43015 740-363-1516 B20 No restrictions

Midwood Inc

12818 East Gypsy Lane

Bowling Green, OH 43402 Joe Molnar 419-352-5231 B2

Perry Valley Garage

2732 East High St.

Newark, OH 43055 740-763-2573 B2

Staggers' Auto Service

394 West National Drive

Newark, OH 43056 Steve or Tim Staggers 740-323-1148 B2

World Energy



Heath, OH 43056



For anyone else looking for bio - check both the retail buying map and the distributors map!

http://www.biodiesel.org/buyingbiodiesel/retailfuelingsites/default.shtm

http://www.biodiesel.org/buyingbiodiesel/distributors/default.shtm

 

[rholcom2]

If you flip over to the volkswagen "TDI Club" page, they are talking quite a bit about bio diesel in the Cincinnatti area. I believe some of the guys run a B20 mixture. From the limited reading I have done over there, I have not ran across where they have had any problems from running it.

 

[mhenon]

Biodiesel and sludge

I ran B20 for six months and carried a spare filrter after reading of the cleansing effects of biodiesel. Nothing happened other then the truck ran great. Seemed to hum along the Highway just a little quieter. After a few thousand miles on this B20 I pulled the fuel filter for a routine change and found it quite clean. Could have used that filter for several thousand more miles. So... I assume there was no grung or build-up to begin with.

Now that I here in the mid-west visiting family... you find biodiesel at a lot of pumps. The local soy-bean farmers are taking a cut of that high-priced foriegn stuff and I'll support that.

Good clean biodiesel is an excellent alternative to Diesel#2. We just have to start using it and let the powers to be set standards and quidelines so all of the biodiesel is good quality stuff.

If your looking for lubricity... you only need B2 (2% biodiesel) mixed in with regular diesel. Stanadyne studies showed this to give the best bang for the buck and completely address the Ultr Low Sulfur Fuel issue.

If you can afford to add more... . now you're stinging these oil jerks right in the wallet... . and giving back to a local farmer. Ain't nothin wrong with that.

Just don't be afraid of this new product. Start with a small blend (B2 or B5) and use more as your comfort level rises. Your Cummins can handle B100 if it's good fuel (not home brew) bought from a reputable dealer.



Mike

 

[JLehman]

hi guys, ugly filter alrite. I was wondering if B100 will run ok in the third gen trucks?? I only have 10500 miles on my 04 have used ablut B20 three tank fuls. Station sells B100 so i put 7 gals in tank then finish fill with #2. Any experiences?? and since my trucks so new think i need to work about junk in the tank??

 

[John - K5AWO]

B100 will run just fine JLehman, and with your truck being so new I doubt the tank is dirty enough to worry about. just check your fuel filter once in a while. If it is still clean, put it back.

 

[mhenon]

JLehman, You might want to do some checking before using B100 in a 3rd gen Cummins. I believe there were issues with the common rail engine and biodiesel. Can't remember the whole story but it was something about the extremely high pressures of the common rail causing foaming with straight biodiesel.

Hopefully... somebody will jump in here with the scoop.



Mike

 

[rashwor]

I am interested for my '05 as well.

 

[LightmanE300]

I ran B20 for six months and carried a spare filrter after reading of the cleansing effects of biodiesel. Nothing happened other then the truck ran great. Seemed to hum along the Highway just a little quieter. After a few thousand miles on this B20 I pulled the fuel filter for a routine change and found it quite clean. Could have used that filter for several thousand more miles. So... I assume there was no grung or build-up to begin with.

Now that I here in the mid-west visiting family... you find biodiesel at a lot of pumps. The local soy-bean farmers are taking a cut of that high-priced foriegn stuff and I'll support that.

Good clean biodiesel is an excellent alternative to Diesel#2. We just have to start using it and let the powers to be set standards and quidelines so all of the biodiesel is good quality stuff.

If your looking for lubricity... you only need B2 (2% biodiesel) mixed in with regular diesel. Stanadyne studies showed this to give the best bang for the buck and completely address the Ultr Low Sulfur Fuel issue.

If you can afford to add more... . now you're stinging these oil jerks right in the wallet... . and giving back to a local farmer. Ain't nothin wrong with that.

Just don't be afraid of this new product. Start with a small blend (B2 or B5) and use more as your comfort level rises. Your Cummins can handle B100 if it's good fuel (not home brew) bought from a reputable dealer.



Mike

Fantastic post

 

[LightmanE300]

hi guys, ugly filter alrite. I was wondering if B100 will run ok in the third gen trucks?? I only have 10500 miles on my 04 have used ablut B20 three tank fuls. Station sells B100 so i put 7 gals in tank then finish fill with #2. Any experiences?? and since my trucks so new think i need to work about junk in the tank??

All I've read has said to stay away from b100 in HPCR injection. Whether or not this 'flocking' phenomenon as they call it exists or not, who wants to find out? I believe the problem is because biodiesel has a much wider range of viscosities within the ASTM standard than regular diesel, I don't have the exact specs. However I think HPCR injection needs a more consistent viscosity of the fuel to function properly. B100 is much better suited to the indirect injection engines of the past, with their prechambers.



I recommend guys with 3rd gens just run b20, no need to get above that. Anything above that there is a noticeable decrease in power and mileage, and this stuff isn't cheap. I admire people who do use a lot, however with 3rd gen injection and the environmental impact, b20 is the point of diminishing returns. Considering all the fuel these trucks go through, if 20% of your fuel burned is domestic and renewable, you've made a difference. Plus the thing just runs like electric the stuff is so slippery.

 

[JLehman]

Thanks for the replys guys appreicate it!!!

 

[Headshot zod]

This is a quote (another forum) from the guy I get my bio from... . But I'll ask in person. I have to assume its astm.





"... ... . In this way your co-op will have astm quality material to sell, we are chemists and the ability to produce quality product is not trivial..... "

 

[fox]

Looking at the pictures, it looks like the WVO was not filtered. I see rust or french fry crums and untreated WVO?

If the process was to 'trans esterfication' it should eliminate any methanol and of course be filtered before it gets to your tank.

NAPA has some Biocide or go to a tractor dealer.

 

[JyRO]

Lightman - I've been reading your posts with great interest (when I found them) from the 1st ones you've mentioned bio-diesel. I've been running the roads quite a bit here lately and now have the bio-diesel retailers bookmarked and available off-line, because I take my laptop when on the road. I recently moved to AL and have no retailers in the state unfortunately.



I have a 2nd gen truck with ~75k miles. So I may have some gunk in the tank. I've never had a fuel system issue (barring one LP), and change the fuel filter every 15k miles. So far, so good.



My question is this: Do you recommend some method for someone in my case to start up on bio-diesel? For instance, I would rather not 'wash-out' the tank with the first few tanks of bio-diesel. I realize it may not happen at all, but just in case.



I was thinking something along these lines, but any or all of this may not be necessary.



1st - I run the stanadyne with the fuel for maybe 3 tankfulls, to rid the tank of any water.



2nd - Go straight to B20, and maybe run some biocide with it for maybe 3 tanks, to kill any algae that either may be there in that tank already or may get stirred up and 'activated. '



3rd - Change the fuel filter.



4th - Run B20 or higher with no worries. I value the opinions of you fellow TDR guys and would appreciate your input.



My biggest problem is going to be lack of bio-diesel in AL. But here lately I have been fuelling up in various other states and can probably manage to get to a bio-diesel retailer. Assuming I did steps 1 through 4, would you recommend running B20 or B100 (or other)? Thanks.



- JyRO

 

[LightmanE300]

Lightman - I've been reading your posts with great interest (when I found them) from the 1st ones you've mentioned bio-diesel. I've been running the roads quite a bit here lately and now have the bio-diesel retailers bookmarked and available off-line, because I take my laptop when on the road. I recently moved to AL and have no retailers in the state unfortunately.



I have a 2nd gen truck with ~75k miles. So I may have some gunk in the tank. I've never had a fuel system issue (barring one LP), and change the fuel filter every 15k miles. So far, so good.



My question is this: Do you recommend some method for someone in my case to start up on bio-diesel? For instance, I would rather not 'wash-out' the tank with the first few tanks of bio-diesel. I realize it may not happen at all, but just in case.



I was thinking something along these lines, but any or all of this may not be necessary.



1st - I run the stanadyne with the fuel for maybe 3 tankfulls, to rid the tank of any water.



2nd - Go straight to B20, and maybe run some biocide with it for maybe 3 tanks, to kill any algae that either may be there in that tank already or may get stirred up and 'activated. '



3rd - Change the fuel filter.



4th - Run B20 or higher with no worries. I value the opinions of you fellow TDR guys and would appreciate your input.



My biggest problem is going to be lack of bio-diesel in AL. But here lately I have been fuelling up in various other states and can probably manage to get to a bio-diesel retailer. Assuming I did steps 1 through 4, would you recommend running B20 or B100 (or other)? Thanks.



- JyRO

Jyro - glad to see you are interested in running biodiesel, since it helps us all out as Americans



As I've said before, this case was the actual first I've ever seen of fuel filter clogging due to biodiesel, and I have to assume he was using b100 since he didn't answer that. In your case Jyro I don't think you'll honestly have to do anything, and I'd just fill up with some b20. B20 isn't going to dissolve and clean things like b100 does, and if any, it will do it gradually. B100 itself is just really a strong cleaner and the only issues even warned against are pretty much all centered around b100 use.



As for your steps you listed - and while this may be a different topic, I've commented many times on the fuel additive demulsifier vs emulsifier situation. In short - stanadyne will not remove water from your tank safely, and if anything it will cause the water to pool at the bottom of your tank or flow through the system in large clumps . Stanadyne and other demulsifiers cause water to group together and pool/separate itself from the fuel, into the form of free water. The water separator is supposed to catch free water, however if you notice when you drain your fuel filter housing, you never get any water. That's because fuel filter water separators are only really effective at removing huge slugs of water, not the amounts that are typically found in diesel fuel. Thats why I choose to deal with the inevitably present water in fuel by emulsifying, which basically takes the present water and makes it into smaller microscopic size droplets so they can safely pass through the system. I can't recommend stanadyne in anyone's case to be honest.



In short Jyro - don't sweat it - run b20 and change your filter at your normal interval. Congrats on burning the bean!

 

[Headshot zod]

B100 all the time... ... ... Sorry.

 

[barbwire]

Lightman, I am interested in possibly making my own bio in the future. Can you inform me as to where I might buy the best kit on the market to use? Also, how does one go about testing your product to determine if it's a good thing to use?

 

[mudcat]

I've been running B20 in my truck for about 10,000 miles now and have had no ill effects. I notice much quieter engine now and about the same performance and mileage.

 

[Headshot zod]

facts and myths of Biodiesel.



It just reinforces what has been said earlier in this post. B20 is ok, B100 "may clog your filter"... . yeah right

 

[DBond]

its mixed with methanol... ... ... I spilt a little in the bed of truck over the weekend and it dissolved a styrofoam coffee cup... ... . It also dissolves rubber fuel lines.

methanol is mixed with Veg oil and chemical reactions make the biodiesel, but the methanol is not in the final product you pump into your fuel tank.

 

[Headshot zod]

I understand the reaction with the methanol, catalyst and the oil and the glycerine falling out of solution. Especially since the meth is a deadly poison and biodiesel is as they say "less toxic then table salt and decomposes faster then sugar". But it also make a great paint remover and the cup looked like I dumped paint thinner into it. It was just easier for me to say "mixed with".