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fuel filter pic.....unknown miles and 110 gallons of BioDiesel

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Bio Diesel contraption

Running rough after BioDiesel

Saying biodiesel is biodegradeable and decomposes quickly is marketing nonsense - it's just a bit LESS toxic than regular diesel - methanol and lye - the methoxide mix that causes the transesterification reaction in vegetable oil is certainly toxic, and quite flammable. Gotta be careful with that stuff.



Barbwire - depends on the scale of setup you're looking for. There are plenty of plans if you search google to build small scale processors. Some who want less hassle will go this route ; www.biodieselgear.com . They have some SWEET stuff there, and isn't too bad of a price if you go in on it with a buddy or two. IF a tdr member in Cleveland had space for one of these things, I'd be all over chipping in!! :)



www.avlube.com offers fuel testing, so does stavely fluids analysis although they are more expensive. You can get a basic test from avlube for around $52.
 
Gary - K7GLD said:
... And WHY would the bio stuff have any greater "cleaning power" than the regular stuff the rest of us use?



AND, if true, is greater "detergency" something we REALLY want for the rest of the fuel system and engine?



Because BioDiesel is an awesome solvent. . Barney diesel is just oily crap...



Just FYI* I process my own fuel. . I also filter to 1 micron, TWICE before it hits my tank.
 
LightmanE300 said:
Saying biodiesel is biodegradeable and decomposes quickly is marketing nonsense - it's just a bit LESS toxic than regular diesel - methanol and lye - the methoxide mix that causes the transesterification reaction in vegetable oil is certainly toxic, and quite flammable. Gotta be careful with that stuff.

No-- Its true... It will decompose and biodegrade. . FAST. I spilled some in the bed of my truck and just took it home and squirted some palmolive dish soap in the bed and put the nozzle on the hose an power washed it out...



Try that with barney diesel.



This was B100, the only way to go IMHO.



Oh yea, all the bad crap should be gone after reaction when the glycerin is drained off.
 
bio diesel

hello all

if your scared about the winter time problems and you have a fass fuel system just run the heat from the engine to the pump that will help with the jelling of the fuel my fuel temp runs from the temp in the am to 135 degs after its heated up



dont just sit there and wish for the old days, there not coming back ulsd biodiesel its here to stay, make sure you have extra filters



cj hall
 
My 2nd-gen 24 valve with 130k miles has run extremely well on straight B100 biodiesel for almost a year now. I heard the stories about filter clogging, and started out blending in about 20-30% biodiesel, but never saw any sign of filter clogging. Since last spring I've been running b100 almost exclusively, except when I get caught once in a while where I can't get it. Even the first filter changed after switching was clean looking. No sign of anything that would clog a filter. Just changed one yesterday, and it looked perfectly normal.



I use commercially made biodiesel that meets the ASTM spec. My engine is very noticably quieter and smoother than with petrodiesel. Cost of biodiesel is about the same as petrodiesel in Houston. Sometimes a little less or more.



All-in-all my first year of experience with biodiesel is entirely positive. I like the fact that my money goes to American farmers and workers and not to foreign interests who hate me and my country.
 
Wow my head is spinning reading all this, lol. Thought I would chime in on what I have experienced running bio. I started with B20 and after 3k miles I changed the filter and what a mess it was. The filter was filthy and there was some white sludge at the bottom of the filter canister. After another 3k I changed the filter again and found it to be much cleaner with no sludge. I made the switch to B100 (soybean oil) and went back to my normal filter change at every 6k.



I had about 100k miles on the odometer when I started and now have somewhere around 80k miles on B100 exclusively. I only run #2 when I can't get bio or when I go to CO for skiing. I have said before that if the bio is not made or refined properly you will have some problems whether it be with the cold, clogs or algae. I have had B100 in the tank with no additives down to 18* with zero problems, some folks can't get below 25* with out clogging again must be how it was refined.



As far as the way my truck performs, lets just say it does much better on the B100 than it did on #2. Smoother, quieter, feels stronger and hardly any smoke. One thing I have found that if you have any kind of fuel leak with bio get to it quickly, this stuff forms a black tar like goo on fuel lines if not corrected early. As far as mileage goes, I have not noticed any drop or increase.
 
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Good read

I support the Bio-movement and do my part to help clear the fog about bio, staing informed from good healthy coversation like this.



However, argument for or against any type of bio aside... ...

:--) :--) TWELVE YEARS!!!!?? :--) :--) I think you should be proud to see a filter look that good after that kind of service. Holy cow, I ve seen filters much nastier than that with far less hours. Last friday I removed a filter so rusty it would barely move fuel, that I Installed back in the spring.



If thats all you got washed out, you have done an impeccable job of maitining a clean fuel system. (now take the extra step of changing twice a year at minimum, even if enough miles have not passed to warrant it)
 
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