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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Fuel Filter Question

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Fuel Gauge/Sending Unit Died

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Hey Guys,



I just bought a fuel filter from the local dodge dealer for my 97 turbo diesel. I don't think they gave me the right one. First off, the price was $47. 70 just for the filter. The part number is 4874274AC. Is this the right filter, and is that the average price for a fuel filter? I attached a picture of the filter.



Brandon
 
My 97's fuel filter is just a pleated cartridge that goes into a metal housing. Costs around $17 from Cummins. It looks nothing like your picture.



Let us know if you need directions on replacing the filter - it can be awkward the first time.



Fleetguard # FS 19598



Geno's sells them for 13. 95 plus shipping.
 
Thanks for the reply fellows. I am definitely returning that fuel filter. I just ordered two fuel filters from Genos. The total was $34. 85. That just goes to show you how much the dealership rips you off. I never installed one before, so any tips are greatly appreciated.



Brandon
 
On my 97, I hook up a hose to the fuel filter drain tube and drain off some of the fuel with the yellow drain valve. Close valve. Then unplug the electrical connection on the front of the housing, loosen the nut on top of the housing and carefully drop the lower housing - you can fish it out from above. New cartridge comes with two new O-rings that should be replaced. Clean out housing, slide new cartridge in, then comes the fun part. I install from above and sort of balance it just below it's position and use a plastic funnel with a hose and valve that I got at Walmart to pre-fill the lower housing with clean fuel. Lift it up with one hand, tighten the nut on top with the other, rehook the electrical connection, prime it a few times with the rubber prime pump below the filter and you should be all set. Space is limited, but it can be done without going under the truck.



Hey guys, anything I left out?
 
corprimo,



Wow, sounds like alot of fun. Thank you for your instructions on how to change the filter. Must you fill the housing with fuel before tightening it back up, or can you just prime the heck out of it until it starts?



Brandon
 
I don't think filling it up first is a good idea. Unfiltered fuel will go to the injection pump if you do that. It's a lot more work and slower to prime it with the push buttong, but all the fuel is filtered that way.
 
I agree, I just install my new filter and housing dry and break the 10mm banjo bolt loose a bit and pump the plunger until the bubbles stop and fuel come out. Tighten and start. :D
 
I bought a filter for a Diesel VW Rabbit once. Bought it from a German Parts & Garage place. He said that they fill the empty filter with injector cleaner type stuff. Can't remember the brand, but the jist was to have the pump & injectors get 100%, undiluted shot of it once per filter change.
 
Originally posted by Forrest

I bought a filter for a Diesel VW Rabbit once. Bought it from a German Parts & Garage place. He said that they fill the empty filter with injector cleaner type stuff. Can't remember the brand, but the jist was to have the pump & injectors get 100%, undiluted shot of it once per filter change.

Would that be the same thing as one guy said on another forum about filling the filter with pure Stanadyne and starting it up? I remember, it was on my forum about fuel additives and mileage.
 
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i don't think the dealer's intention is to "rip you off". i think there intention is to make money. they price it, you buy it. or not.



in my business, if i had to let $40,000 slide thru my hands and not make any more than they do, i would go out of business. they make their dough on parts/service/financing, etc.
 
Originally posted by shendren

i don't think the dealer's intention is to "rip you off". i think there intention is to make money. they price it, you buy it. or not.



in my business, if i had to let $40,000 slide thru my hands and not make any more than they do, i would go out of business. they make their dough on parts/service/financing, etc.

I agree, but a $30 mark up from a $17 part is kind of overkill, IMO. Only in the Chrystler world that seems to make sense.
 
Well, my filters arrived today from Geno’s. Replacing the fuel filter was not bad at all. Took about 10 minutes total. It took 170 pushes on the primer to get it going, which took about a minute. The filter that came out was extremely dirty. I have attached a picture of it. Is this how an old filter looks when it is shot?



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Brandon
 
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The black coating is normal. It's from a normal part of diesel. I can't remember the name of if. Do a search about fuel filters posted by illflem. If that is all there was the filter is still clean.
 
I had an interesting failure yesterday related to the fuel filter that I'd never heard of. The drain valve/water sensor in the bottom of the filter went bad. I smelt fuel after stopping and I figured it was the dreaded return line but upon closer inspection it was coming out of the valve. I lost about a gallon of fuel in about 30 miles of driving. That would have run me dry in @450 miles running empty, @300 miles ahead of schedule, and sense my fuel level sending unit is currently not working, that could have left me walking on a long trip. I better get that thing fixed!
 
i had that prob with the sendor and i pulled it out of the tank and it fell apart i screwed it together and it been fine ever since
 
Asphaltenes is the solid visible particles your filter catches. Some black is normal and some areas have poorer fuel quality (more ashpaltenes) too.



Last filter I changed (not mine) was the worst ever. Coated with black & other gunk. The filter media was partially collapsed from the restriction.



I pay under $12 for a filter at Cummins. It is cheap insurance to change the filter more than less.
 
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