2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Fuel gage sender

[hcpBILL]

I searched this forum for information on replacing the sender for my fuel gage. There is lots of great information on how to modify/upgrade/repair the sending units but I did not see that there is a reliable sending unit available that I can just bolt in. I am not fond of the time it takes to re-design and engineer something that should be simple (and reliable).

Is there a replacement unit available that has a better history than the OEM units we all have struggled with?

THANKS!

Bill

 

[SRath]

I'll second that; except I would be interested if anyone has a rock-solid, do-it-once fix for the crappy Dodge sender.

And hcpBill might change his mind about just bolting in a new one when he sees what they cost...

 

[rotohead]

I'll add one thing about dealing with this issue that bugged me for two years. I've had a very annoying squeak/vibration in the rear cab for awhile now and never put two and two together until recently. If you drop the tank to fix this issue it takes some attention to get the tank properly centered so it doesn't rub against the rear panel or the left frame rail. Use to drive me crazy cause I couldn't find it. Just a thought.

 

[SRath]

I plan to install shielding under the bed just like I did under the cab, so I'm taking the bed off anyway and doing something to the doggone sender while it's off. I've dropped and reinstalled fuel tanks before and I would much rather remove the whole bed.

It would also be a good time to replace some crappy Dodge fuel and brake lines with decent quality stainless steel ones, so some careful planning and gathering of needed parts would be very helpful first.

 

[JMcCoy]

This issue has got me so mad, i'm about to cut a hole in the bed and start checking the fuel level with a stick.

 

[BarryG]

I ended up going with a capacitance type unit from centroid that I had read about on here previously and wrote up my install on here somewhere a couple years ago. Mine has worked fine along with others reporting no problems. All I did was take it out of the box and put it in. I didnt do any recalibrating or anything. However some others have said that they have had problems. Another option is to go to vulcan performance and replace the whole module with the jeep liberty module they have both modded an unmodded (drawstraw installed). I dont recall hearing anything about the liberty module sender going bad. While the entire jeep liberty module is a somewhat different design than the stock one the fuel sending unit portion appears to be very similar to the stock sending unit - float, wiper arm contacts etc. However I have not looked close enough at the contact portion to see if that is any different (a side by side comparison). The folks over at Vulcan may be able to answer that.

 

[SRath]

My gauge works fine for the first 1/4 tank or so (it's gradually getting worse); then it drops to "empty" for the next 25 to 30 gallons leaving me to guess by keeping track of the miles driven.

 

[JMcCoy]

I went through three in tne first 3 year 36,000 miles under warranty. 150,000 miles later, the gauge still bounces up and down every 30 seconds. It makes a dinging noise every time it goes down. Sometimes it will stay down for a half hour and leave me alone for a while. I refuse to take out the bell because if I do, I will never fix the problem. The problem is that I tune it out of my head so I will never now if my truck is warning me of a different problem. Sorry I have nothing to add to correct this problem. I just wanted to vent to people who understand. You guys are cheaper than professional therapy.

 

[DonTX]

Mine was shot when I bought the truck, I put in a new one from MOPAR and it has performed perfectly for over 100k miles now. Maybe there are good ones and bad ones.

 

[Joe G.]

I replaced two of them before I got one that works and keeps on working. Stock from Dodge. Many miles since then.

 

[rweis]

I replaced mine with a boat fuel level sensor several years ago (way tougher and the float is nylon and will not breakup like the dodge one). Works fine still. I did the drawstraw II also. Return fuel to the filler neck for better cooling. The only issue is I never got the tank sealed TOTALLY with the boat sensor and the tank total slap dead full, weeps a little.



If you change the Dodge fuel level sensor and want to change it to something more common you have to add 2700 ohm resistance to the wiring so the dodge canbus will read the levels correctly.



Bob Weis