Fuel in oil

[AllianceDiesel]

Spec is only 44 ft/lbs which isnt much and when you loosen one bolt, the other one is instantly loose. So when you are running the new bolts in, I always run one bolt in until it starts to lift the injector hold down on the other bolt side, then run that bolt in until it becomes snug. Then I do my version of the torque sequence. As long as the injector takes some force to full out, it is seated. And I dont remember you saying you had a miss or crankcase pressure, which you would have if the injector was letting compression into the rocker box.

 

[Billy]

Thanks for your reply AllianceDiesel- The service manual says 89 Inch LBS, I assume that would covert to 44 Ft. Lbs. Well I don't have a lot of experience but I have never backed out a bolt and the other side became hand loose. The truck runs fine, no misses but it did have lots of crankcase pressure as it had lots of smoke coming out of the blow by tube and when I set the oil filler cap on the hole it rocked and rolled and tried to blow off. Think I should tighter her down and check it again, it's a pain but I have nothing but time today and Monday. Thanks again for your help brother! If you know, does the 89 in lbs. convert to 44 ft. lbs.? I would rather use my ft. lb. torque wrench.

 

[Billy]

One more thing, the bridge has openings where is sets on the valves or whatever you call them, one side of the bridge is long gated as opposed to the other side which is more round, does it matter which goes where when I set it? I didn't pay attention when I took it off, the service manual does not address this. Thanks.

 

[Billy]

On top of the bridge one side has a raised dot and the other side does not. The others in there; some have the raised dot the same direction and some don't, no rhyme or reason it seems how the others are.

 

[AllianceDiesel]

Sorry I looked at it wrong, its 44 in/lbs initial torque and 89 in/lbs final after the first torque of the connector tube nut. 89 in/lbs is roughly 7.5 ft/lbs.

I always put the valve bridge dot to the exhaust side of the engine. Dont think it matters but I remember my mentor tech telling me thats how he did it.

 

[Billy]

New Trick: When you take off the retainer nut off the connector tube you can put a wheel lug on the end of the connector tube and pry it out, who needs a miller special too? LOL

 

[Billy]

OK, I've got one for ya'll. The back bolt holding in the injector was loose when I first starting taking this thing apart. So, I put everything back together after tightening the bolt thinking maybe that was why it is leaking. I started it and it still leaks so I started taking things apart again, guess what? The back bolt was loose again, does anyone know what could be causing this, the bolt tightens up fine. It was backed out a little after start and looking for the leak, less than 2 min. Man, it's always something...............

 

[Billy]

Well, after careful inspection of the bolts it looks like one has a bad spot on it. Instead of being sharp, it looks kind of flat on a couple of threads. I will replace it, do I need to do anything to the hole it goes in. Thank ya'll a lot.

 

[HHhuntitall]

Ahh, sounds like it was overtightened at some point, and stretched, just not quite to the point of breaking. Hole should be fine. I doubt tightening them will help, but I could be wrong... The crossover tube was most likely holding it down, but if it was blowing by up into the crankcase, the injector is still likely cracked.... But you could tighten it down and try it.... Cheap to try, right?

 

[HHhuntitall]

ON second thought, the pressure you're dealing with is what is probably stretching the bolt as it blows out the cracked injector body.....

 

[cerberusiam]

Remember the injector hold down does fit flush to the head, it will rock back and forth. You have to tighten alternate sides of the hold down to pull the holder down evenly or they can loosen. New bolts if there is any question on the threads is a god idea also as they can be stretched if tightened too much.

 

[Billy]

Thank you for the replies. Ya'll think I should replace both bolts? I got the truck new so I assume the factory over tighten it. I got 2 new ones today. The bolts I got today does not have a built in washer so I got a lock washer to use, think that's ok? I don't see anything wrong with the injector, I assume the crack in the injector is not visible because it is leaking, white smoke pours out with I unplug the FCA plug and the paper I hold above it gets wet with diesel. I really don't have anything to brush the injector hole in the motor with, I looked in there with a mirror and it looks fine, what do ya'll think? I could go somewhere and try to fine one if ya'll think I really need to. Thanks a lot for your input, I'm really thankful for everyone's help.
Has anyone heard anything about the Donaldson fuel filter system, it looks easy enough to install and it goes behind the skid plate so it looks protected and the ordinal filter will still heat the fuel. Thanks again!

 

[cerberusiam]

There is a possibility that the hold down being loose MIGHT have caused a leak at the cross over tube that was blowing fuel up past the o-ring. Generally I would say no becasue the TQ on the cross over should have held it it. You could check the o-ring and tube tip to see if there is any obvious damage. High pressur efuel leaking is going to casue damage to the tip and the o-ring so it should be obvious. Sans any obvious damage the injector body is likely cracked.

Go to the parts store and get a steel bottle brush type tool, they should have a selection of them to choose from. Carb cleaner and air to blow it out will clean it up nicely.

Typically your final filter mounts on the engine if possible and you would want to use a large um filter with good WS mounted between the tank and OE haousing. Depends on what you have for an LP also.

 

[bigceltic]

I found this set of vids very informative for replacing injectors. Still too chicken to do it myself, but the vid seems to be pretty good.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b0PrboPiYOI (remove)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Pcl9Eu4MGo (install)

 

[Billy]

Nice bigceltic, Did you notice they didn't use the last one on the row to show you? LOL
My injector came in, I guess the carrier didn't have the energy to drive down 7 house's to deliver it. It was easier to put the "Sorry we missed you" notice. ****** me off, I have been in the garage all day. They wonder why they can't make money, it that was a UPS truck he or she would have been knocking on other doors to get it off the truck. What a joke......Sorry for the rant, It's my day off and I could have been on the road...Damn

 

[bigceltic]

Nice bigceltic, Did you notice they didn't use the last one on the row to show you? LOL
My injector came in, I guess the carrier didn't have the energy to drive down 7 house's to deliver it. It was easier to put the "Sorry we missed you" notice. ****** me off, I have been in the garage all day. They wonder why they can't make money, it that was a UPS truck he or she would have been knocking on other doors to get it off the truck. What a joke......Sorry for the rant, It's my day off and I could have been on the road...Damn

Yeah I did notice that! I also noticed he broke a fuel line during the removal!

 

[HHhuntitall]

Yeeeaaaahhhh..... I deducted 20 IQ points at 22 seconds when I saw the Banks air intake... then another 20 IQ points after he droned on for another 3 minutes.... after 6 minutes, I fast forwarded it a few minutes, just to find he lost his tooling.... Ok, I'm done. And then you tell me he broke a fuel line. Anyone notice the rusted to heck common rail? No WAY I'd be running a rusted up rail like that on a modified engine..... Jus' sayin'.... Overall, I rate the guy slightly above a California State School graduate....

 

[Billy]

Well, I installed the new injector and did the test, everything looks ok, I unplugged the FCA and no leaks, I let it run for about 10 min. Tomorrow I will start it, unplug the FCA and check it again and check the new bolt I installed, it should be ok. Thanks to everyone for the help, I could not have done it without ya'll!! I'll let everyone know tomorrow how the 2nd test turns out. I want to do it so bad now but I'm tired as a dog and 3 AM comes early. LOL Thanks again!

 

[Billy]

Tested out fine. I know more about these injectors than ever, wow what a system. Does anyone know how to check my vacuum line from the cc pump? It's plastic so I cant pinch it off at different locations. Any help would be great, thanks. The pumps just runs and runs, that is the issue. I'd like to take care of it before I put the wheel well protector back on, I can see the part where the line goes perfect and get to it if I need to, thanks as always.

 

[HHhuntitall]

Well, I'd attach my hand vacuum pump, with guage, to the line where it goes to the cruise servo, and make sure I'm getting vacuum there.... if I wasn't, then I'd backtrack my way to the pump. There is a myriad of places it could be leaking, between lines, fittings, and even a servo housing or ruptured diaphragm in the servo. You could possibly just test it with your finger, but it should have a minimum of 10" mercury vacuum......

The cruise control servo should be under the driverside battery tray, by the way. The line should run from the pump, pretty much straight to the servo.