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Fuel Injector Summary

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Another first timer question. Injectors are in - running smoothly. Went back and did valve lash - went OK - need to recheck after some idle time. But - decided to run the engine with the valve cover off and I noticed #1 and #3 intake rocker did not seem to be oiling the valve bridge like all the other rockers. Pulled them both off and cleaned the passages. Reinstalled and #3 looks fine but #1 still flows less. It looks like plenty of oil is coming up, the arm and pushrod are well oiled, the top of the rocker is filling just fine. I did note that it took longer for all the intake rockers to oil the bridges compared to the exhaust's - but # 1 is still lagging. This is a few minutes (<5) at idle. Am I being paranoid? Pictures with engine off don't do much justice but that #1 intake valve well looks pretty dry compared to all the others, and you can see a nice coat on the #2 bridge when compared to the #1 bridge.

#1 Intake
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#2 Intake for comparison
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Each rocker is individually lube. Either the lube circuit has some blockage or the bushing may have some imperfection allowing seepage....take it apart and check for wear. double check the assembly of #1.
 
TC, I did disassemble and clean that rocker twice, all the passages are clear as far as I can tell. And like I said, the rocker shaft, and the pushrod are getting plenty of oil up through the rocker and out, so it's acting as if only the passage to the bridge end of the rocker is blocked - but I have cleaned it well. What bushing are you referring too?
 
Gotcha TC - thanks for the graphics. I did check that bushing and it fits tight and smooth (oddly enough #3 intake rocker/bushing felt like it has a bit of a bur, couldn't feel it with my fingers and it was tight - but not smooth). In any case I buttoned up the truck, drove a couple miles, opened it again and watched - now the oil is flowing just fine. So perhaps there was still something interfering with the flow, air pocket maybe, or it just wasn't warm enough. Quick oil change now in case any debris is in the system. Appreciate the help.
 
Gotcha TC - thanks for the graphics. I did check that bushing and it fits tight and smooth (oddly enough #3 intake rocker/bushing felt like it has a bit of a bur, couldn't feel it with my fingers and it was tight - but not smooth). In any case I buttoned up the truck, drove a couple miles, opened it again and watched - now the oil is flowing just fine. So perhaps there was still something interfering with the flow, air pocket maybe, or it just wasn't warm enough. Quick oil change now in case any debris is in the system. Appreciate the help.


All is good...
 
Thought I'd give an update on a few things. 1) How it's running with the new injectors and 2) A warning on something I found, and 3) For those changing injectors (and setting lash) for the first time, a couple thoughts.

1) I have run about 1.5 tanks of fuel with the new injectors. To recap - I went with 0.5 BBI's. The truck idles a little rougher but runs very smooth. I get a little more smoke - both haze/white at idle, and a lot more black when I punch it. The exhaust smells a little stronger. I am running unloaded/no towing and feel low RPM power about the same but better power in the higher RPM, better response hitting it hard from 40-70 miles per hour. I've put very few freeway miles on so still need to see what happens there. Surprisingly, with my mostly city commuting the first tank picked up mileage by about 10% (14.3 to 15.9). I was very meticulous torquing the fuel tubes, but just in case the additional white smoke/odor is a little fuel getting past that joint, I am going to get an oil analysis to make sure (no obvious fuel dilution but I thought the oil in the rocker box smelled a lot different after running the new injectors for a few minutes, but could have been loosing my mind by that point). Lash is set good.

2) One extra little fun I had when putting the injector wiring harness back on, one of the little BLACK cable ties holding the wires to the plastic frame broke and fell into the rocker box filled with BLACK oil. I did not like the thought of that getting churned through the system but man was it hard to find, back on number 6 of course so I had to fish around blind to pull it out. When I did a little tugging on the rest of the wires I found that all of those cable ties were deathly brittle and broke at the slightest stress. Normally those ties never see any stress, but I caught a wire reaching in to #6 and that was all it took. Obviously the heat made the ties brittle, and I wanted to replace them with something better. Found some higher temp rated ties and tested them with a heat gun. Ties were rated to 338 degrees F, I hit them and some standard ties with a 600 degree heat gun. Both shriveled up, but the good ones did not become brittle, while the normal ties broke up like an old cookie. Pictures below of the factory black, new blue, and white test subjects. This is a quick replacement you might do next time you have the valve cover off.

3) First timers' observations. This thread (and related past threads) was invaluable in helping me understand what I as in for, helping with questions along the way, sharing tips, and getting information from suppliers even. I really want to thank everyone again for all the help. It was a big job but doable. I spent about three days, working at a slow, no-rush pace, swapping out the injectors. Most of the guys on here will probably laugh at that but I'll admit it for your benefit. I am actually more embarrassed at how long it took to set the valve lash. This was all about technique, and it took a while to get mine down. I did it twice (checked and reset after the first handful of miles) and it was shockingly faster the second time.

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If the cross tubes are not seated correctly the truck will have running problems, Any NONE seated cross tube will leak into head return circuit and the fuel that leaked will return to fuel tank, It will NOT show up in OA, If the % of fuel in oil is high its not always the Injectors, Most CP3 shaft seal will start leaking at around 250K miles, and is overlooked in most cases because the Grocery Selling distributors don't have the knowledge to correctly diagnose Problem and just want to condemn the injectors to sell products to you for profit only, that is their goal.
 
Good thread, lots of great info! I have one question on a comment you made. Are you saying your truck idles a little rougher than the high mileage stock injectors did?

1) I have run about 1.5 tanks of fuel with the new injectors. To recap - I went with 0.5 BBI's. The truck idles a little rougher but runs very smooth.
 
Well thanks alot for this thread, now I lost a fuel injector today after reading this yesterday!

375,000 miles on the stock injectors is good though right?
 
Good thread, lots of great info! I have one question on a comment you made. Are you saying your truck idles a little rougher than the high mileage stock injectors did?
Yes exactly. Idle with the new injectors is a little rougher, but I wasn't as lucky as jonny d, I only had about 110,000 on my original factory injectors.
 
Great information here. I have 300k on a stock truck running a smarty on low, with unknown miles on injectors +.

I too am on a budget, but can't afford to be cheap. Leaning towards injectors direct - specifying new 238 injectors. Any suggestions on injectors / possible vendors before I pull the trigger?

With 300k should the valve cover gasket and tubes be replaced?
 
My local shop has a "Bosch authorized" rebuild for 295 a piece on the shelf, Bosch reman for 325, and bosch new for 425. Problem is both the Bosch direct options is they wouldn't get here till Monday. I hate waiting!!!
 
I would, like it was shown the plastic ties gets brittle along with the insulation on the wires. For around $150 at Geno's its great insurance.
 
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