Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Fuel Module Suction Line

[CStewart]

I've been having a hard start problem ever since I put the FASS system on my truck and I think I have finally found the problem. The steel tubing on the top of the fuel tank module suction where the quick connect attachs is rusted and leaking air. I pulled the tank out of the truck and after having priced new modules I'm trying to rebuild the one I have. I have new fittings made up to use two of the four openings on the top of the fuel module so I can use threaded fittings. One for the suction and one for the return. My problem is that I haven't seen the original type of tubing that was used for the suction and return lines and I need something that will work with a Push-Lok fitting or a hose barb. I know the Push-Lok hose works for external diesel fuel lines but I'm not sure it will hold up to being submerged in diesel. Has anyone used the 601 or 801 type hose in this type of application or know of a hose that will work and where I can get it? I need something with a 3/8 ID. Thanks! And sorry for gettin wordy.



Chris

 

[GKarpen]

I just finished with that problem. The problem is the rollover valve. That's the big hockey puck like thing inside of the screen. R&R the module and you will have a lot less grief.

 

[tractorface]

Me too

I just built a replacement module for mine using all AN type fittings. I used a piece of Brake line tubing threaded into a 3/8 coupling for my return line. You could adapt this to your module. I agree with GKarpen as I have seen the same thing. I also don't like sending the return fuel into the "bucket" that the supply fuel is coming from, tends to heat the fuel up quickly. My new module has 3/8" couplings welded in the top for Roll over valve, FASS return, and VP44 return, as well as 1/2" fittings for Supply and also a 1/2" fitting for a capacitance type fuel level sender. I will post pics once my truck is up and running and I get a chance to try out the new setup.



Back to your question. Is the tubing in the tank now bad? Can you reuse it? I cut the clamps off and reused it the first time I rebuilt my tank module.

 

[CStewart]

My main problem is that I can't reuse the tubing that was on the suction of the fuel module. I don't want to use anything that is gonna come apart from being submerged in diesel fuel. There is a marine type fuel line called A-1 that looks like it might do it but I'm still checking on it. Thanks for the info and good luck on your new set-up.



Chris

 

[tractorface]

Should have thought of this before. My old module is apart on my workbench. I can ship it out to you tomorrow if you like. Let me know, I have no use for it!

 

[jabird]

Please post the pics of what you did..... I'm in the same boat right now only i had the pin hole in my return line... ... . fuel pouring all over!!!!!!! Jb weld for now seems to be holding. but i wanted to make a 1/2" pickup line but cant figure it out just yet... . If I could see what you did that would be great

 

[tractorface]

I'll Try

I will try and post tomorrow. The pics are at home. I say try because I have trouble re-sizing the pics to post. PM me your e-mail and I can e-mail them to you unless your on dial-up, than it will be sloooow. I just took a 3" phoenix flange and welded a 12 gauge plate to it. Then welded my NPT fittings into it and installed AN adapter fittings. It really looks pretty good, not rigged up at all. I'll post the pics tomorrow including pics installed and Plumbed to the FASS. I also have some 3/4 fittings with the correct quick connects welded in that I used to repair the module the first time. If they would help you I could send them to you. They require dissassembling the fuel module to install them and they use the spare hole up. I was not happy with the fit and finish thus my new part. Wish my sender was here. Custom made capacitance probe with the correct Ohms output for our ECM (that is the custom part) cost less than the stock sender from DC. Will not work in standard fuel module because of the sliding deal. Could be installed elsewhere in the tank or through a custom module like the one I made. I think the only downside of what I did may be its ability to use every last drop of fuel in the tank. I suspect the OEM unit would allow one to draw the tank down further than the 1/2 pickup tube I used.

 

[CStewart]

Thanks for the offer Tractor but I would like to use something better then what came on it from the factory. I don't have the tool or the clamps that you have to use on the factory stuff.

 

[Ncostello]

I must be fortunate to have the all plastic module. I modded mine by filing off the barb which holds the oring connector on. I then just pushed on 3/8" fuel line and clamped it.



Finding a hose is key. Most inner tubes are diesel proof while the outer sheaths are diesel resistant... to a point. I've had Weatherhead SAE J30R7 hose soaking in a diesel bath for over a year. No degradation or swelling whatsoever noted. The white lettering is even still holding up well and won't rub off.

 

[CStewart]

Hose search

I've got some 601 and 801 Parker soaking in diesel to see if anything happens to it I also found some Tygon tubing through Cole Parmer that has a A+ rating for use with diesel and can take up to 29" of HG vacume. I might have my buddy machine up a piece that goes into the suction screen so I can use all steel tubing like Tractor suggested from the top to bottom. Speaking of which did tractor and GK do away with the hockey puck thingy that is the rollover valve or did your mods use another type of valve for that?It looks like it could cause problems not to mention restrict the fuel flow. Thanks again for the info.



Chris

 

[tractorface]

Hope this works.

Pictures of new module posted. Missing is the fuel level sender. When it arrives I'll post it as well. Pictures installed are incomplete as you can see by the dangling hose.

 

[CStewart]

Thats what I call HEAVY DUTY!!!! :-laf Nice job! How much was your capacitance probe and who did you have make it up for you?



Chris

 

[tractorface]

http://www.centroidproducts.com/



Part# CGF-14. 25-12v-220/20-wires-1/2"-flatted.

The 14. 25 is the length of my sender. Cost is $64. 00

Sender without water screen will peg your gauge if water gets in the system. Nice feature! Water screen deletes this feature if your crazy :-laf



I use a version of these senders at work everyday and never have a problem.

They also make them with the standard 5 hole SAE hole pattern for bolt on installation, I just like threads and did not want a hole in my tank.



Can also get sender with 4-20ma if you want a digital processor in the cab

 

[CStewart]

Capacitance probe

JEEZ!! And the factory doesn't use this instead of a sending unit because why?? Bean counters strike again!! Never heard of a capacitance probe going bad very often. Don't need the 4-20ma signal, haven't done the in cab microproccessor upgrade yet :-laf

 

[tractorface]

Actually

I think the SAE mounting style will be $49. 00 if I am not mistaken. The flatted holder with the threads is an extra $15. 00



Anyone could take and make the hoel in the top of the tank and install one of these. Just not in the bucket. Don't have mine yet but am pretty sure you will need an extra wire. I need to look at the stock harness and see what is back there.

 

[GKarpen]

Nice going tractorface! I put a new module in mine. Maybe you should go into business with this once you have tested it. I spent $400. 00 from Dodge for my all plactic up to date replacement. Thats a lot. The harness has places for four connections but uses only two.

 

[tractorface]

Small problem at this point

Thought I would post an update. Topped off the tank Saturday and fuel poured out the top. I made the mistake of trying to use the OEM gasket with my new module. My module has an angled mating surface and it distorts the OEM gasket which is slightly smaller than one would expect. My solution is to remove the OEM gasket and use "The right stuff" black RTV as a new gasket.



For whatever reason my FASS is now so quiet I can barely hear ir. You have to get right up on it even at start up when the truck is not running I have serious fuel flow now. Filled an Quart OJ container in a mater of the blink of an eye. My 0-30 psi gauge is on backorder so I can not tell the pressures cause my 0-15 is pegged. I need to find out how to back that down some. Anyone know the procedure.



Hot Rod VP44 is really cool, power is up like adding a second EZ, Have not had the nerve to floor it yet, but there is a noticable difference from the old VP. I'll update again once my gauge comes in.

 

[CStewart]

Fuel Pressure

Sounds like your setup is workin excellent Tractor. You can reduce your fuel pressure by changing out your bypass spring inside the FASS unit. Diesel products has several different springs available I hear. Still waiting for the hose and fittings to come in to get my truck back on the road



Chris

 

[onstottc]

Wow! That puts my job to shame...



https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=47558&stc=1

 

[GKarpen]

tractorface: Brad sent me another spring months ago because he thought my FASS was over pressured. Turned out it was the same spring, the weakest. I maintain a constant 15 Psi no matter what I do in my un-bombed truck. It cost $7. 50. My mechanical Di-Pricol reads 14. 5 and my electric Westach reads 15.