2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Fuel pressure sender questions

[Ralph Heron]

Okay, read the threads on the FP guages and getting nervous about the VP44 (got about 60k on the current lift pump but have two new pumps waiting on the workbench).



Picked up autometer ultra lite Boost (4304), Pyro (4344) and Fuel Press (4361) guages as well as an apillar mount from Geno's. Seen posts where readers have mounted the sender on the firewall (isolated from the motor (using a grease gun hose to connect the fuel filter cover to the sender)). However, Geno's appnote mentions that you want the sender to vibrate with the engine (mount the sender on the motor).



What do the TDR member say?? BTW, this is an electric unit. Thanks in advance!



Ralph-

 

[JL penner]

Wanted to put this back to the top, I have the same question. Oo.

 

[AggieJustin]

I've always had my electric FP sender mounted remotely from the engine so that it was isolated from the vibrations of the engine. I used ~24" rubber hose to help dampen some of the pulsations from the injector pump as well. My sender lasted for almost 2. 5 years, finally failing last week due to an internal leak.



I've got it mounted near the firewall on a homemade bracket. I can grab some pics if you want.



Justin

 

[SRadke]

It says to mount it to the engine? I would try to isolate it from the vibration. My mechanical isolator rattled apart mounted to the engine so I moved it to the firewall connected by a braided stainless hose. It looks very good and the hose was less than $15.



-Scott

 

[AggieJustin]

I've posted pics of my sender mount in my gallery. Ignore the fact that there is no hose hooked up to the barb fitting. I haven't got around to installing my replacement sender yet.



The mount is pretty basic, made from supplies you can find at the hardware store. I used a metal bar typically used for connecting two pieces of lumber (holes evenly spaced down the length and easy to bend) and a conduit clamp to hold the sender. The conduit clamp is bolted to one end of the bar, the other is bolted to the fender.



I used a brass T right before the sender to mount my schrader valve that I can hook my mechanical gauge up to if I ever need to doublecheck the accuracy of my electrical one. The next thing that will be added to this is a needle valve (probably down where the rubber line comes off the bolt at the pump) so that I can shut off fuel in case of another leak.



Justin

 

[JPope]

Got my Westech electric used from Bob Wagner (thanks Bob!!!). Came with a short straight metal bracket, which connected nicely to the battery holdown bolt (separate from engine vibrations), and with a isolator hose from Genos went together nicely and has been working fine. Don't know how long Bob W. used it, but it is still working, and helping me monitoring staying out of trouble!

 

[24V-DSL]

Vibration will kill an electric guage. Mine's mounted on a bracket on the inner driver's side fender just above the fuse box. Line comes off the VP and I have a snubber before the sender. This is an autometer 0-15 psi that's been on the truck for over three years. I did have a sender fail a few months ago, and I put the snubber in at that time. Be aware, the electric guage and replacement senders are spendy as compared to mechanicals.



Got the snubber from Branom?? Instruments 503. 283. 2555 PN 12S-E, SS. It was less than ten bucks.