Fuel Sender Swap

[DBCooper]

My truck came with the standard nonworking sending unit. I took a look today to see what it will take to change it out and came away with a couple of questions. What's the trick to unhooking the two fuel lines? Looks like a Ford setup! Do I need to buy the tool, or is there a way to take them off without damaging the clips? The second question is this. I need to take the big nasty plastic "nut" off right? Couldn't budge it. It's the 4" round ring that goes around the whole nine yards. Sound right?
Thanks for your input. I guess I need to get good at this fix. Hey DC, next time go to the nearest Jr. High and get a real engineer!!!!

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'98 QC 4X4 LWB Auto, 3. 54 LS's Leveled with 2" Skyjackers in the front, and bone stock everything else... so far.

 

[csutton7]

DBCooper--the fuel line connections have tabs on the sides which you need to push in so the line releases--it's a little bit of a bear--just keek at it, maybe use a small screwdriver to help depress one side--it can be done without the tool--depress and pull--It will help to lower the tank and remove the drive shaft event though I never removed my driveshaft---I took the nut off with a 12" pc of 1 1/4" or so dowel and used a rubber mallet to smack the nut off--use the same method to tighten it---the wire harness has a sliding red button you need to push to the rear and then depress the tab to remove--this one is even more fun than the fuel lines--just keep at it--and again it's much easier to lower the tank first---since you didn't mention the overflow & diesel fill lines I guess you figured those out---most important is to mark the way the module is in the tank before you remove the nut, so that you can put it back exactly---and when you remove the module note how it's setup--the dang thing only works in one position in the tank--I know it took me 2 times before I got it---I made the mistake of not taking/making a note of how it was setup up when I changed the pickup tube---hope this helps and good luck----chris

 

[illflem]

I found that a extra large pair of Channel-Locs works well on the nut, so will oil filter pliers. I've been into my module several times and prefer jacking up the drivers side of the bed to dropping the tank. The lines are easy to remove once you figure them out, and are extremely easy to replace.

 

[samb]

If you push in on the fuel line and then press the plastic tabs the line will come right out. By push in on the line you remove the pressure on the tabs.
Sam B.

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97, Lamanie SLT, clubcab, driftwood, 3. 5 spicer 70 rear axle
96 Coachmen Royal 285rk 5th wheel, 11,000 #

 

[DBCooper]

Thanks for the replies. I hadn't thought to mark it for the possition. Should get to it soon.

 

[Bill Lins]

When I re-did mine, I could only get one connector off from the left side. In order to release the other line and the electrical plug, I had to drop the driveshaft and get up in there. Good luck!

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Bill Lins Wharton, TX 98 2500 QC SLT,12 (the CORRECT # of)valves,NV4500,3. 54 LSD,Manik grille guard,Semi-Psychotty Air,Amsoil everywhere, Reading aluminum utility body and bumper,Optima yellow tops- silencer ring & muffler stolen.

 

[DieselB59]

Forget about the fuel line connection nonsense and just leave them connected. Run the truck to near empty (about 550 miles) and put a jack and a block of wood under the tank and unbolt the straps. Then just let the front part of the tank down until you can get at the pickup unit and there's just enough room to slide it out and R&R the sending unit. Stop for a beer and it'll take you a half hour at best.

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Chris Timochko
*Association of Diesel Specialists Certified*
AUTO WURKS DIESEL R&D TEAM
1997 5sp 4X4, Rhino Linings, Espar Heater, A. W. D. HX40 turbo, ATS 3pc Manifold, BD 4" Brake, Marine Compression, A. W. D. Custom Tuned Injection Pump, A. W. D. Intercooler, A. W. D. /Mallory Fuel System and Braided Stainless Lines, A. W. D. 370B Injection Nozzles, Delivery Valves, Governor & AFC Spring Kit, Psychotty Air, A. W. D. Water Injection, NOS Diesel Kit, A. W. D. 6" Chrome Exhaust System, BD No Smoke Valet Switch, McLeod Dual Disc Clutch, Mag-Hytec Rear Cover, Cummins Chrome Kit, Optima Red Tops, Hadley Bully Horns, Hurst Line Loc, Goodyear Wrangler AT/S 305/70/16s. 15. 50@97mph on Goodyear All-Terrain tires.
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Project U96 - 1996 3500 2WD racer. A. W. D. Marine Ultra Low Compression, A. W. D. Teflon-coated Pistons, A. W. D. High Lift Camshaft, Ported and Honed Cylinder Head, Intake and Exhaust manifold; A. W. D. HX40 Turbocharger, ATS 3pc Exhaust Manifold, A. W. D. Water Injection, A. W. D. Custom Fabricated Fuel System, Race Spec A. W. D. /BD P7100 Injection Pump, A. W. D. Custom High Flow Fuel Injection Nozzles, BD Auto transmission and Custom TC, Weld Draglites, Goodyear Eagle Drag Slicks, 5" Single Stack Through The Bed, Mag-Hytec on Rear and Transmission. 11. 54@115mph

 

[jolyman]

I have a related question . . After I filled my fuel tank I noticed that I have some leekage from the area of "the big round nut" but I can't tell exactly where it is leeking from (or am I overfilling the tank?).

I am new to TDR and I am really enjoying it. THANKS EVERYONE!!

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'96 2500 SLT Laramie, Teal & White, X-Cab, 4X4, 5 spd, 3. 54 LSD, LWB, Dee Zee Boards & Caps, Camper/Tow group with air bags & Elec. brake control, K&N, Jacobs E-Brake, and Prime Loc.
A Dodge Ram Ham . . W0AJL

 

[illflem]

jolyman, there is a seal under the big nut that could be leaking. DC says to replace it every time the nut is removed. I never have and have had no problem. Another place you may want to check is the auxiliary fuel outlet on top of the tank module, it is supposed to be capped, but the cap may have come off or rotted. It is the outlet that points straight up, not the one that points to the side, that one is a vent. Your tank shouldn't leak at all no matter how full it is, in fact it's not supposed to leak even in a rollover accident.

 

[Extreme1]

Wasn't there a recall on the rollover valve for some early units or was that my gasser?

I'll never drop the whole tank again, that job was a Royal Pain! Planned on lifting the box next time. Dropping the end of the tank or lifting the side of the box doesn't sound too bad.

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'94 3500 4x4, 210,000 miles, Never had a cat, Auto w/shift kit (thanks Dave G), 3. 54 Gears, TST #5 plate, 235-85-16s, Rancho 9000s w/remote, Isspro Gauges & Amsoil Air, Oil & Bypass Filters & Lubes, AWOL intake boot.
Punchlist: 14 cm Turbo Housing & 215 Injectors.
NRA member.
Blue Ribbon Coalition member.
"I am my own performance station"