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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Fuel shut off took a puke. Need help

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Delivery Valve Guru's???

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Well yesterday on the way home from work i went out and started my truck well it was reluctant to start (do to the starter contacts). When she finally started the starter stayed on. Well most of the time it sticks it is only a couple of seconds. Not this time. I poped the hood to go and stop it from running so i would not damage any thing:rolleyes: . As i go around to the front i see it start to smoke I tryed as fast as i could to pull a terminal on the battery, but i was to slow. I herd a pop and it started to smoke bad. So now i have to replace my solinoid. So far the best price i have is $360 thats dealer cost. The highest has been $440. If any one knows where i could get one cheaper that would be great. I need to get it asap cant drive the little sisters car to long(pluse it is not a diesle it is to quiet).



Thanks

Tony Stetson
 
I'm confused, what solenoid "popped", the fuel shut off or the starter :confused: If it's your fuel solenoid try Cummins, they are a lot cheaper than DC.
 
http://www.piersdiesel.com/ has a good price on solenoids, well not good but better $278

When worn starter contacts stick voltage is applied to the solenoid initial lift up coil for too long overheating it. This is one of the few things that can truely fry a solenoid, most other times they are replaced needlessly. Twenty bucks for a set of LarryB's heavy duty contacts can go a long way too save you big money. Best to replace the contacts before they fail.
 
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My latest bout of swearing at the truck replacing the rubber fuel lines, heater strainer, fuel filter, W. I. F. sensor AND lift pump required me to remove the shutdown solenoid.



That P. O. S. rubber boot crumbled and the spring and plunger went flying... . needless to say... I'm now popping my hood and shutting her down manually until I get a PTO cable to shut her down from inside the cab.



No problems at all with doing this... . just gotta pop the hood and reach in there. You'd all be happy to know that the truck gets even more odd looks when I am under the hood shutting down the engine.



Matt
 
Matt, hope you've upgraded your throttle cable. When mine failed it stuck at WOT, I was going 95 and still accelerating when I shut down the engine.
 
holeshotholset i can only imagian the looks turning it off. I got the looks to start it (relay).



I found a place by me that wants 304. 94. The prices are getting alot better. My question is why is their such a big price difference?



$440 form DC and $278 Piers?

$162 in difference whats the deal.



Thanks for the help guys.
 
Originally posted by TStetson

holeshotholset i can only imagian the looks turning it off. I got the looks to start it (relay).



I found a place by me that wants 304. 94. The prices are getting alot better. My question is why is their such a big price difference?



$440 form DC and $278 Piers?

$162 in difference whats the deal.



Thanks for the help guys.



I guess it's all about tring to see how high of a proft one can make. Obviously DC has no concious... how else would they be able to sleep at night by charging those prices? :rolleyes:



How could I of forgot about Piers. Do business with him, you won't regret it. He's knowledgable and typically has the best deals. Did I mention the outstanding customer service you get when doing business with Piers. ;)
 
Yes Piers is a great guy. I bought my 3000 gov springs their and any questions i had he was more than willing to help answer them for me. The only reason I am not going to go with him is cuz I would have to wait another day or two to get the parts and i need the truck asap.
 
Throttle cable was upgraded by my local friendly DC dealership on a recall notice... . they were so nice that they even replaced my primary hood latch assy. !! :rolleyes:



I'll leave the unintended acceleration up to the old Audi's... . :D

But if I ever get pulled over... . I got lots of excuses. ;)



Matt
 
Ok i have my new starter contacts on the way and i am going to pick up my new fuel shut off solenoid. I have one more question.

Do you think it is posable to put a switch in the power line of the starter so if it ever decides to stick again i can kill it? It would also be a good antitheft device.



Thanks for all your help

Tony Stetson
 
The part a Cummins is only $278. 00. It is also a more heavy duty soliniod. it comes w/ a new bracket, because the old one won't hold the bigger sol. -Lane- Part # 3800723
 
Tony, there are all kinds of battery shut down switches but unless installed underhood it would require running heavy cable into the cab. You can buy inline ones with a key or go as simple as a replacement battery cable terminal that has a switch built in. Most online and your local auto parts carry them.
 
HoleshotHolset,

I replaced my fuel shotoff solenoid with a twist and lock PTO cable from Napa. The twist and lock one works real good but is the most expensive at about $21. You can also get little brass cable stops with set screws for the cable at Napa for a couple bucks. These were all out on a counter in the same area. If you get the twist and lock, a tip on smooth operation is to grease the locking ferrule a little bit. It makes it real smooth and easy to twist and lock.
 
I like your idea better illflem about putting the switch under the hood. Yeah I really dont want to run big wires into the cab.



Lanthony,



Where did you get the part #. When i called he told me about the upgrade and the brackets that come with it, But the part # that i have is 3931570. Dont know if that just might be this companies # or what.



Thanks again for the help.
 
That # is an old number for the old sol. I got the number right from my electronic parts catalog here. I work for Cummins Northwest. The 3800723 is the latest number, and gets you all the parts you need to change brackets. :cool:
 
Well just got off the phone with the girlfriend. I ask her what the part# on the box was and it is 3800723 so it is the new one. Thanks for all your help. Thanks LAnthony.



I learned my lesson. Fix it now for a little or pay alot later!!
 
Just a note about the newer style of selenoid. For whatever reason, mine was so close to the master cylinder that when I turned left and torqued the chassis it rubbed. Of the four bolts holding the master on the firewall, I put washers between the firewall and the bracket on the bolts closest to the engine. This "canted" the cylinder and gave me proper clearance. Had to adjust the brake light switch too.
 
For those who have shut down cables, I haven't looked close but how difficult is it to hook it up for pull to stop? Don't really like the idea of pull to go, too easy to shutdown at the wrong time.
 
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