Attention: TDR Forum Junkies 
Yo Hoot
TDR MEMBER
I purchased the setup from Circle Track Supply out of North Carolina based on the opinions of some of the people on this site.
Partial Brake Upgrade Packages for Dodge Ram Diesel / Gas 1/2, 3/4 and 1Ton Pickups. B Package
$835 + $81 shipping + shipping to return the cores. Looks like I'll have $1000 in this and I'm doing the labor. Somebody take my temperature.
You get one pair of Gas Slotted Rotors, Severe Service Blue-Printed Calipers, Carbon Kevlar Pads, 2 liters of Hi-Temp Motul ABS 5. 1 Brake Fluid and 2400 degree ceramlube paste lube.
They shipped my stuff right away. Had the stuff in two days. They called me because I had a question. Good customer service.
The new calipers are noticeably different. They are much more substantial. They are thicker and heavier. I guess this is what they mean by "Severe Service"?
I removed the drivers side caliper. Pretty easy. Make sure you unbolt the brake line bracket at the frame and pop out the ABS line from the plastic holders attached to the brake line. This gives you freedom to hang the caliper on the lower control arm while doing the rest of the job.
I sucked all of the fluid out of the reservoir and replaced it with new fluid so as it draws it gets new stuff plus you can see an immediate color change down at the line when you purge.
Removing the caliper and pads was straight forward. Getting the two big bolts loose that hold the caliper bracket took a long breaker bar. You have to remove the bracket to replace the rotors. Fortunately it had been removed before for ball joints so they weren't that bad.
Once the rotor was off I removed the ABS sensor and injected grease into the bearing assy, taking the advice of others. Using a thin needle greaser works best. The thicker needle won't get past the tone ring. I re-installed the sensor, installed the rotor and caliper bracket.
The caliper loads in from the top first than you push the bottom in. You need to make sure the two slider sleeves are fully retracted or they'll hit the bosses.
Once I had the new caliper in place it was time to disconnect the brake line from the old caliper, purge the old fluid out and connect it to the new caliper. On the drivers side with the door open, I could reach into the truck and push the brake pedal with my hand while watching the fluid coming out of the disconnected line. Once the fluid came out clear I attached it to the new caliper with the supplied new copper crush washers. I added fluid and bled the caliper. I looks like the system doesn't suck in air doing it this way. Worked real well.
Now for the problems... .
Passenger side was a real pain. I'm not sure what the issue was, me, wrong parts, bad parts? I read in another thread that the passenger side caliper gets loaded in bottom first. When I removed the old caliper I forgot to look at how the rattle clips were installed but it looked like they would only go on one way. The full finger clip up top and the slotted one on the bottom. Something didn't seem right about the fit. I tried installing the new caliper, sliding the top in first but the bottom simply would not go in no matter what I did. Almost like it was too big. I took it apart and tried installing the rattle clips the other way with the full finger one on the bottom but they would not go on that way. I ended up with the full finger clip up top but I had to bend the middle finger LOL out. I installed the bottom of the caliper first and was able to get the top in and then bend the tab back down. What a pain because it was 11:30 at night and I still needed to get the rest together and needed help with the bleeding since I couldn't reach the brake pedal from there. Wifey wasn't real happy.
I wondering if I got the wrong rattle clips for the passenger side.
Anyway I bled that side no problem. Had about a half pint of fluid to spare and plenty of grease left. Instructions said to take it out, run up to 50mph and firmly bring it down to 15mph. Do that three times to heat up the pads and then park it till it's all cool to touch. Brakes feel great.
Pictures coming.
Partial Brake Upgrade Packages for Dodge Ram Diesel / Gas 1/2, 3/4 and 1Ton Pickups. B Package
$835 + $81 shipping + shipping to return the cores. Looks like I'll have $1000 in this and I'm doing the labor. Somebody take my temperature.
You get one pair of Gas Slotted Rotors, Severe Service Blue-Printed Calipers, Carbon Kevlar Pads, 2 liters of Hi-Temp Motul ABS 5. 1 Brake Fluid and 2400 degree ceramlube paste lube.
They shipped my stuff right away. Had the stuff in two days. They called me because I had a question. Good customer service.
The new calipers are noticeably different. They are much more substantial. They are thicker and heavier. I guess this is what they mean by "Severe Service"?
I removed the drivers side caliper. Pretty easy. Make sure you unbolt the brake line bracket at the frame and pop out the ABS line from the plastic holders attached to the brake line. This gives you freedom to hang the caliper on the lower control arm while doing the rest of the job.
I sucked all of the fluid out of the reservoir and replaced it with new fluid so as it draws it gets new stuff plus you can see an immediate color change down at the line when you purge.
Removing the caliper and pads was straight forward. Getting the two big bolts loose that hold the caliper bracket took a long breaker bar. You have to remove the bracket to replace the rotors. Fortunately it had been removed before for ball joints so they weren't that bad.
Once the rotor was off I removed the ABS sensor and injected grease into the bearing assy, taking the advice of others. Using a thin needle greaser works best. The thicker needle won't get past the tone ring. I re-installed the sensor, installed the rotor and caliper bracket.
The caliper loads in from the top first than you push the bottom in. You need to make sure the two slider sleeves are fully retracted or they'll hit the bosses.
Once I had the new caliper in place it was time to disconnect the brake line from the old caliper, purge the old fluid out and connect it to the new caliper. On the drivers side with the door open, I could reach into the truck and push the brake pedal with my hand while watching the fluid coming out of the disconnected line. Once the fluid came out clear I attached it to the new caliper with the supplied new copper crush washers. I added fluid and bled the caliper. I looks like the system doesn't suck in air doing it this way. Worked real well.
Now for the problems... .
Passenger side was a real pain. I'm not sure what the issue was, me, wrong parts, bad parts? I read in another thread that the passenger side caliper gets loaded in bottom first. When I removed the old caliper I forgot to look at how the rattle clips were installed but it looked like they would only go on one way. The full finger clip up top and the slotted one on the bottom. Something didn't seem right about the fit. I tried installing the new caliper, sliding the top in first but the bottom simply would not go in no matter what I did. Almost like it was too big. I took it apart and tried installing the rattle clips the other way with the full finger one on the bottom but they would not go on that way. I ended up with the full finger clip up top but I had to bend the middle finger LOL out. I installed the bottom of the caliper first and was able to get the top in and then bend the tab back down. What a pain because it was 11:30 at night and I still needed to get the rest together and needed help with the bleeding since I couldn't reach the brake pedal from there. Wifey wasn't real happy.
I wondering if I got the wrong rattle clips for the passenger side.
Anyway I bled that side no problem. Had about a half pint of fluid to spare and plenty of grease left. Instructions said to take it out, run up to 50mph and firmly bring it down to 15mph. Do that three times to heat up the pads and then park it till it's all cool to touch. Brakes feel great.
Pictures coming.
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