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Fumoto F-104

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It is thin steel. But I've changed alot of oil in my day, and It's the flimsiest one I've ever worked with.

Not sure what you mean , it seems its reinforced there with the threads for the plug, pan may be thin, but not sure that impacts the threads for the plug.
 
Flimsy implies they don't hold up. Eg break/crack, etc. I've personally seen two rot out but one was on a 92 that was a plow truck for over 10 years and the other an 03 farm truck that is exposed to the elements 7 days a week. But for the most part, even around here they hold up quite well over the long term.

I think the 4th gens have more weight savings. I bet the bumpers were more substantial 15 years ago as well. The oil pan i would assume is Cummins? Or maybe the engines are shipped without the pan and oil and It's mopar?
 
Not sure what you mean , it seems its reinforced there with the threads for the plug, pan may be thin, but not sure that impacts the threads for the plug.

I have been tightening it until the pan flexes ever so slightly. The pan flexes easily. Some say spec torque is 44 ft lbs. But I think I've seen flex before teaching that torque. I will check with a torque wrench starting at 35 ft lbs to be safe.
 
from Quickserve Online:

Clean and check the oil drain plug threads and sealing surface.

It is recommended that a new sealing washer is used every time.

Install and tighten the oil pan drain plug.

Torque Value:

Steel Pan, M18 Plug 60 n•m [ 44 ft-lb ]
 
from Quickserve Online:

Clean and check the oil drain plug threads and sealing surface.

It is recommended that a new sealing washer is used every time.

Install and tighten the oil pan drain plug.

Torque Value:

Steel Pan, M18 Plug 60 n•m [ 44 ft-lb ]
No serviceable sealing washer on any CTD/RAM trucks I’ve owned since December 1997. It’s integrated within the plug......
 
from Quickserve Online:

Clean and check the oil drain plug threads and sealing surface.

It is recommended that a new sealing washer is used every time.

Install and tighten the oil pan drain plug.

Torque Value:

Steel Pan, M18 Plug 60 n•m [ 44 ft-lb ]

I wonder if this is for a non FCA application?

The washer is part of the plug and can't be separated?
 
That's why I really wonder if this is a cummins pan and plug
Or an FCA pan and plug. I'm not going to apply 44 ft lbs.
 
The oil's gonna be black in a couple of blocks regardless of Fumotu,plug drain etc. I've done them both ways.
I give it a half hour with the Fumotu and close the valve.
My Blackstone readings are excellent and very similar to my 2nd gen results, leaving the plug in or removing it.
 
The way I figure it ,a plug has to be pulled regardless if you want all the oil to drain. Fumoto is just as easy to remove as the original plug, and a lot easier to get MOST of the oil out before removing, and not having to deal with that initial flood of oil coming out
I get why it’s ease of use is appealing, it’s just not for me. If it has to be pulled anyway to get all the oil out, I’ll just stick with the original plug and wear latex gloves. I’m normally changing oil at 9pm after working 14-16 hours and have to be back up and on the road by 4am so I need to get the oil changed in the least amount of time possible. Maybe when I retire I’ll be able to let it drain overnight.
 
this is the 12 quart oil pan for these current engines. I looked it up on Quickserve with my engine serial numer so it appears to have a Cummins part number, not a mopar source.

6 5284232 Oil Pan

7 5301901 Threaded Plug



oil pan.png
 
Gents,

Wow, you learn something everyday: I never realized the threads on the Fumoto drain valve leave oil in the drain pan. I've had a '93, 2000, 2002, 2003, and a 2009 Ram Cummins trucks and I used a Fumoto drain valve on all of them and never removed the drain valve. I have a new one ready to put on my new 2017 whenever I change the oil the first time too. I guess I'll still keep on doing it the way I have been, but it's still good to know.

Thanks for the info,

Ron
 
Gents,

Wow, you learn something everyday: I never realized the threads on the Fumoto drain valve leave oil in the drain pan. I've had a '93, 2000, 2002, 2003, and a 2009 Ram Cummins trucks and I used a Fumoto drain valve on all of them and never removed the drain valve. I have a new one ready to put on my new 2017 whenever I change the oil the first time too. I guess I'll still keep on doing it the way I have been, but it's still good to know.

Thanks for the info,

Ron

you never get all the oil.. short of removing the pan and disassembling the engine and hot tanking it and then blowing it dry, there wil always be oil somewhere in that engine that doesn't drain. That dirty old oil is laying on the head, its in the oil cooler and the oil galleries,and its clinging to every surface inside the engine.

That is why theses guys splitting hairs over the subject is is really as interesting as reading a treatise on obsessive compulsive futility disorder. :)
 
And, never used any oil or had oil leaks. Up to 2004, I used to do oil analysis and never had problems, so stopped. And, I'm pretty Type A: I log every tank of fuel, calculate mileage every tank, document all maintenance and fluid changes in a log since I was 18 years old on everything I owned. I measure my oil consumption at the dipstick and on my Ram Cummins trucks have always put a full 12 quarts every 10K miles with Mobile 1 5W-40. I had over 200K miles on every one except the 2009 4500 I just traded for my new 2017 5500. But, I respect anyone who is more type A than me, so all is good in Pleasantville. :D

Ron
 
you never get all the oil.. short of removing the pan and disassembling the engine and hot tanking it and then blowing it dry, there wil always be oil somewhere in that engine that doesn't drain. That dirty old oil is laying on the head, its in the oil cooler and the oil galleries,and its clinging to every surface inside the engine.

That is why theses guys splitting hairs over the subject is is really as interesting as reading a treatise on obsessive compulsive futility disorder. :)

I think the g56 models might not have an oil cooler?
 
you don't get all the oil out of an engine when you drain it. probably get 80 to 90% at best. Anybody ever had to do an inframe or bearing roll in or any other sort of repair that involved being under the engine with the oil pan removed knows that if they spend any amount of time under that drained engine knows they will look like a spotted owl by the time they get out from underneath. That is why its pointless to try to get that last ounce. You never will.

its like everything else on this subject. the oil pan has a nominal 12 quart capacity on these pickup truck engines. then you have a dipstick which at best is just a method of gaging a liquid that is laying in the pan. if it is a quarter inch over or under it really doesn't matter. Seriously, you just don't want the oil level so high the crankshaft throws start going thru the lube oil and churning it into foam, then you lose pressure. As far as being underfull, obviously you want as much oil in there as is safe, but the main problem with the oil being low but not too low is just that since oil also acts as a coolant and there isn't as much in there as should be, it gets hotter than it needs to be. Only time low oil level causes low oil pressure is when its so low you start sucking air, such as when stopping quickly or going around corners.
 
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