Gauges,how hard are they to install

[DGFoster]

How hard is it,and what kind of tools do you need to install boost and egt gauges??
Thanks

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Dave Foster:3500 Quad cab,auto,light driftwood,muffler and resinator are history,Van Aakens. DTT vb and tc on the way...

 

[Jetpilot]

Dave,

I emailed instructions to you (same ones that were given to me by TDR members). I just installed pyro and boost gauges in my truck, the process isn't hard at all.....

Good luck,

Doug S.

 

[dmurdock]

it's time consuming (if you are a methodical person like me) but not very hard. I was worried about drilling/tapping manifold but the hardest part was getting my fat fingers (which happen to be connected to my 320lb fat a$$) around the ipump/filter to screw in the boost line in the manifold. If you have a 2x4 it's a lot easier, 4x4=build scaffolding.


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'01 Eth 3500 4x4, Amsoil air filter, AutoMeter boost & egt on pillar mount. See My Truck and also be sure to read What tools & methods to use for an easy 1st oil change!!!
"Be happy you don't get all the government you pay for. " -W. C. Fields

 

[Ted Constantine]

Easy, a $pa dg-111 went in my truck on Friday thanks to Massdiesel. he did the drilling and tapping because I was scared and lack tools and experience. It took me about the same time to file out the mount to fit the gauge as it took Scott to drill and tap both holes. Some minor technical difficulties in gauge set up but the "hard stuff" was easy. Plus my truck is above average in height but not a sky scarper and I had no problem with the height at 5'11".

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2001. 5 2500, quad cab, 4X4, ETH/DEE, 4. 10 LSD, 255/85 BFG MT, BD Exhaust Brake, JRE 4" exhaust, Leer topper, Piaa driving 510's in bumper, Line-X, Stereo= JVC KD-MX3000, MBQuart 6. 5 components in front doors, 6. 5 coax in rear, JL Audio Stealth Box sub in center seat, Fosgate 400a4 and 250a2 amps, DynaMat everywhere

 

[RobbyRam]

I have a Westach Dual EGT/Boost gauge with the egt temp sensor installed 'post' turbo.
I would like to put a sensor in the exhaust manifold for a 'pre turbo' reading now that I have DD2's. How can I hook up a switch to go back and forth to pre/post turbo readings?

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Y2K Black 3500 ISB 4x4, 4:10 LSD,Auto,QC,SLT Laramie,"EZ",DTT VB,DD2's,LB, Polished Stull Billet Grill & Fog inserts, Chrome Smitty-Built Step Rails, Mopar Chrome-Tipped Mud Flaps, A-Pillar mounted West-Tach Turbo/Pyro/Trans Temp gauges,Rancho 9000's set at '1',Diamond Plated Tool Box, OEM U. R. Bedliner + other stuff.
Fact:The First Fords' had 'DODGE' Engines! The new PSD's need them!

 

[JJMiller]

Originally posted by RobbyRam:
I have a Westach Dual EGT/Boost gauge with the egt temp sensor installed 'post' turbo.
I would like to put a sensor in the exhaust manifold for a 'pre turbo' reading now that I have DD2's. How can I hook up a switch to go back and forth to pre/post turbo readings?

RobbyRam: You can use a DPDT Switch to switch between pre- and post-turbo thermocouples. 2 things to remember: (1) Don't cut the thermocouple leads. You can extend them using regular copper wire if you need to, but you will get inaccurate readings if you cut them. (2) you will have to use a DPDT (double position double throw) switch. Since both sides of the thermocouple lead need to go to the back of the guage, and neither of them is a ground (like some guages with senders) so you have to switch both leads on each t-couple.

Hope this helps.



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John Miller

'01 2500 Quad Cab, ETC-DDX, SLT, Long Bed 4X4, Tow, Travel, 3. 54, Camper spl, Forest Green, Line-X
bed liner, silencer ring removed, guages on order

 

[RobbyRam]

J Miller,
Could you put the dual switch installation
in English, please. #ad
I'm not too bright.
Bob

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Y2K Black 3500 ISB 4x4, 4:10 LSD,Auto,QC,SLT Laramie,"EZ",DTT VB,DD2's,LB, Polished Stull Billet Grill & Fog inserts, Chrome Smitty-Built Step Rails, Mopar Chrome-Tipped Mud Flaps, A-Pillar mounted West-Tach Turbo/Pyro/Trans Temp gauges,Rancho 9000's set at '1',Diamond Plated Tool Box, OEM U. R. Bedliner + other stuff.
Fact:The First Fords' had 'DODGE' Engines! The new PSD's need them!

 

[John]

Dave, check your email. #ad

 

[John]

Originally posted by JJMiller:
Don't cut the thermocouple leads. You can extend them using regular copper wire if you need to, but you will get inaccurate readings if you cut them.

I believe extending them will also produce inaccurate readings. The gauges are calibrated using specific lead lengths. The resistance will be changed if they are lengthened or shortened.

Also, if you have an SPA pyrometer and thermocouple the length can be altered without fear of innaccurate readings. Just one more plus about these fantastic gauges.



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John Treibel
'98. 5 2500 QC 4x4 Sport, Glasstite Vision II, 285 BFG A/Ts on M/T Challengers, Warn 4X Boards, Mopar fender flares & tow hooks, NW Custom s/s-rubber mud flaps and accs. , Mag-Hytec diff. cover & trans. pan, Edelbrock IAS shocks, Reese Titan V hitch, SPA gauges (3), Dynamat, '00 Sport grille and headlights/PIAA Super White bulbs, PIAA Dual Sport 900 aux. lights, BD exh. brake, Amsoil Dual Remote Bypass, Optima Yellow Tops, DD3s and DD TTPM, Aeroquip AQP braided s/s fuel hoses, Banks High-Ram intake manifold and 14 cm2 turbine housing w/Big Head wastegate actuator, ATS 3-piece exh. man. , Banks 4" dia. s/s exh. sys. , DTT 93% TC, DTT custom tuned VB, BD modified trans. front pump (enhanced by DTT), Air Bulldog induction hood (with NACA ducts), plus MANY other trick modifications

NRA Life (Patron) member

 

[JJMiller]

Originally posted by John:
I believe extending them will also produce inaccurate readings. The gauges are calibrated using specific lead lengths. The resistance will be changed if they are lengthened or shortened.

The way I understand it, you can lengthen the leads so long as you do so with a low-resistance wire (copper). The reason you can't cut the leads is that they are made of a higher resistance material.

From the Westach Catalog: the resistance of type "K" thermocouple wire is . 625 ohms/ft, so your standard 4' lead is 2. 5 ohms. That's what the guage thinks is there.

For our purposes (low power and a short distance) we can consider copper wire to have 0 resistance. 2. 5 ohms + 0 ohms is still 2. 5 ohms, therefore I maintain that you can lengthen the leads, so long as you do so with low-resistance copper wire (of a sufficient guage and to a reasonable distance, of course)

--J



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John Miller

'01 2500 Quad Cab, ETC-DDX, SLT, Long Bed 4X4, Tow, Travel, 3. 54, Camper spl, Forest Green, Line-X
bed liner, silencer ring removed, guages on order

 

[Archive]

Robby,

I think that Westach offers a switch (2, 4, 6 position) specifically for the thermocouple installation. It is a rotary type, and I'm not sure of the diameter of the knob and guts, so questionable if it could be stuffed into a pillar pod. I'm sure if you call them, they could tell you.

(800) 400-7024

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'99 4x4 • SB • QC • 3. 54 • LSD • AT • Leather • Mag-Hytech • Westach Guages • Line-X • Tommy Gate

[This message has been edited by AZ_OILBRNR (edited 03-29-2001). ]

 

[Ralph Edward]

First thing on thermocouples use in our usage on turbos is make sure you get a k type thermcocouple J type is not accurate above 950 F. Thermocouples generate millivolts (two dis-similar metals) the wire on the thermocouple is thermocouple wire it does not make any difference in its length. The wire is expensive so long runs are not cost effective. For long runs you can use a short lead of thermocouple wire out of the TC attach it to thermocouple grade wire run length needed attach a 6-8" thermocouple wire to instrument and done deal. Cutting the TC wire has no effect on gauge reading the gauge is calibrated to the output in m/v of the TC. If you install you sw. 6-8" from gauge and run a small gauge wires to gauge you will only see a 1-2 degree differential between that and no sw.

 

[JJMiller]

Originally posted by Ralph Edward:
Thermocouples generate millivolts (two dis-similar metals) the wire on the thermocouple is thermocouple wire it does not make any difference in its length. <snip> Cutting the TC wire has no effect on gauge reading the gauge is calibrated to the output in m/v of the TC.

The length of the TC lead does matter. If you start out with X milivolts right at the thermocouple, then run those X milivolts though 4' of high resistance TC lead, you will have X-(4'Y) millivolts at the end of the TC lead (Y is the resistance per foot of the TC lead). Shortening the leads changes the resistance, increasing the voltage at the end of the lead.

This is why you shouldn't mix brands of thermocouples and guages--the guage is calibrated based on a specific resistance across the TC leads. For westach, it is 2. 5 ohms. I don't know about other companys' products.

--J

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John Miller

'01 2500 Quad Cab, ETC-DDX, SLT, Long Bed 4X4, Tow, Travel, 3. 54, Camper spl, Forest Green, Line-X
bed liner, silencer ring removed, guages on order