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Gear driven air compressor

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new placement for 93 junction box

Need a few motor part numbers

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They are using custom mounts. Those specific trucks I dont have a fast internet connection to check out their build threads here from home. Goto http://www.4btswaps.com and poke around for motor mount info.

As for the hydraulic/power steering pump, you can just use the one you have on the back of your air compressor, unless it is a high gpm pump and the regulator cant bypass all the flow and psi. If you dont have a pump to attach to the air compressor, you have literally a thousand different choices of pumps. Just take you compressor down to the medium/heavy duty truck steering shop and tell them what psi, gpm, and hand them your compressor. Odds are you'll walk out with everything you need for around $350 bucks. Most rebuild kits for these pumps are 25 bucks! And that is only after a few hundred thousand miles... You can buy a new vickers v-10 pump, with a low-gpm rotor in there and set the regulator to around 1300psi, and just hook it up to your steering setup. You'll be set.

A hydro-boost setup is necessary, like you stated. For my custom applications, Van from Vanco-pbs is the guy to get stuff from. He is a huge part of the off-road community. And he can port out a new hydroboost valve to flow a high gpm(like what I need for my 5 gpm pump). You call and talk to the owner, Van.
 
Also, if you would, could you measure your compressor from mounting surface to the end for me? I dont have a pump on hand to check my motor mounts, and I would like to check it out before I go and drop a a bunch of cash on a pump that is too long. Thanks!
 
Please be advised that the large cast iron compressors are a load for the gear case, even with the support brace at the back side of the compressor where the ps pump mounts. I deal with these everyday here at school. Broken front gear case and/or air compressor mount flanges are commom place with the school bus.



The best luck I have is with the Cummins compressor, single cyl unit. The bendix are removed frequently for rebuild due to wear and broken mounting flange.



Just a real world view from a guy who works on this stuff every day... ... ... ...
 
The best luck I have is with the Cummins compressor, single cyl unit.



Just a real world view from a guy who works on this stuff every day... ... ... ...



This is why I'm using a single cylinder.

Greenleaf, perhaps you could give some insight as to where to tie in the return oil line. :confused:



MADDOG
 
I am not up to date on this thread. I have not been reading much of it... ... ... .



The Cummins single cyl does not utalize a return hose. It returns through the timing case.



The Bendix units have a drain in the bottom which uses the large hole in the side of the cyl block. It is a metric sized hole with an expansion plug. About 10. 5" back from the gasket surface of the timing case to block. The 12 and 24 valve have them. I don't know about the 4 cyl.



Are you asking about the 4 cyl engines?
 
The Bendix units have a drain in the bottom which uses the large hole in the side of the cyl block. It is a metric sized hole with an expansion plug. About 10. 5" back from the gasket surface of the timing case to block. The 12 and 24 valve have them. I don't know about the 4 cyl.



Are you asking about the 4 cyl engines?



Iam mounting a KNT86230 - EL850 Compressor - Haldex producto (which has oil return on the bottom of the case)

to a 1st Gen. 6BT. I don't see an expansion plug.



MADDOG
 
mega bump



I'm working a similar gig for the midland gear-driven air compressor similar to what MADDOG is working. Mine is the KNT85230X - air-cooled version.



My only issue is the compressor I got didn't come with the drive gear... and even after exhaustive searching and calls to both Cummins and Haldex I can not get hold of the proper gear. Of course the gear needs to be similar to what is pressed onto the vacuum pump, but the Haldex/Midland compressor uses a tapered shaft gear, and so far I can't find a source for a gear, new or used.



The midland compressor I've got looks a LOT liek the bendix military units pictured, and what I'm trying to determine is how the gear bolts on - it looks like there is an 'insert' of sorts that centers the gear on the shaft, and then is secured by a nut??? I've got the nut, but no gear or insert.



I can really use some help sourcing the correct gear/assembly hardware, or... do I need to use a different compressor (Bendix) all together?



- M2
 
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Why can't you simply modify the compressor gear meaning bore the tapered hole to straight? Or bore out and sleeve, whatever?

Or maybe I'm mis understanding the problem?
 
well I was considering that route but I'm trying hard to avoid any custom voodoo to make this work. If I can't bolt it on I won't do it... ... plus I just got off the phone with Bendix, and I believe I finally have the solution - I'm going 'Bendix'.



It was brought up before in this thread which is what gave me the idea, but basically I chose the wrong fork to take along the road to 'compressor alley'. I cannot find the proper gear to drive this Midland unit anywhere, not even from Cummins. So, I changed direction completely and started looking at the Bendix units, specifically the 2150, and they come with the gear and everything I need for the power steering pump already on the compressor, and I can get them from a local medium-duty truck distributor.



So, I'm returning all of the Haldex goods and ordering the Bendix version - it's just the only way to make it work, and it's a part number, and it's just about the same price.



I'll post up after I back up and make a right... .
 
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