Getrag Disassembly.

[Rebel Ram]

I pulled everything from the Crank (including seal) to the rear axle today. This is a follow up subject to "Getrag Down". Interesting things I found were as follows, NO OIL in trans. None! I topped everything off about 2 months ago after resealing the PTO covers. The only places I can think it went was some out the rear seal and the top cover was very loose. Two of the bolts had backed out about two threads. The gasket was very hard and had migrated some at the loose bolts. I can only speculate that as the gears sling oil it was going out the cover? The bottom of the truck has been very wet but I couldnt find the leak.

Whoever put the last engine rear seal in, left the tool there.

One of the bolts holding the Engine rear plate had backed all the way out. But just that one.

The transfer case still had all its oil and shifted well. I had a problem with getting into 4 high before. It turned out to be interferance with the lever and the tunnel.

So after all of the dirty work was done I started to try to take the trans apart to have a look at the damage. It looks like all the gears and shafts are ok. The input shaft bearing is what got HOT and was making ugly noises. The pocket bearing got a little dry too. But the mating race on the end input shaft apears to be in good shape.

It looks like I will need a new 3-4 shift fork though. I think that when things got hot there it got wasted.

So far all the disassembly I have done is to get the top gearset and input out. I have questions on the rest of the take apart.

1- How do I get the bearings off the shafts?

2-How do I get the counter shaft out? Is the answer behind the rubber plug at the front?

3-And lastly, What takes up all the latteral forces on the top gearset? Only the preload of the front/rear and pocket bearing? That does not seem like it would work.

Anyway thanks for wading through this and for any answers you have.

 

[WJune]

NO OIL ! You are one lucky guy if you can get by with just bearings. Getrags seem to die even with oil. Metal backed rubber plug needs to come out. Pocket bearing needs to be destroyed for removal as I recall ( sometimers disease ). Think die grinder an chisel are preferred method. Jay leonard sent me a pdf on Getrag, there may be others if you search. I have a paper file somewhere ? on these buggers. Oh, an DON'T let the syncro unit fall apart !I am sure others will chime in here. Good luck.

 

[PToombs]

Send a PM to MMiller, he's the new Getrag Guru!

See, you should have gone to SOP 3!

 

[dpuckett]

Yes, the front synchor asembly can be a booger to get back together if you dont hold your tongue just right. I would recommend PMing JLEONARD and getting his Getrag pdf. Lots of little stuff in there that will help.



For the bearings, a press is the preferred method, but most of us just use a carbide tip cutter on the die grinder and get ALMOST to the shaft, then hit it with a chisel.



Counter shaft will come out if you pop that rubber thingie up front in the middle with a punch then pry it out with a screwdriver. Remove all snaprings and drive the shaft out the front with a long punch and hammer.



SHims in the rear take up all the fore and aft slack in the geartrain on upper and lower shafts. If you had some slack, you had some worn bearings, which you already know anyway.



Good luck. It is doable. Dieselman359- you get your Getrag back in the truck yet?



Daniel

 

[Rebel Ram]

See, you should have gone to SOP 3!

Believe me. I did consider it. But its just to far.

Another Question. I need to replace the 3-4 shift fork. Do you drive out the freez plug type caps in the end of the trans top? If so which end is best to drive from? And are the plugs reusable?

 

[bgilbert]

I don't know how much these things cost, but if they are reasonable, I would suggest them. A medium sized bearing splitter and a medium sized two jaw gear puller. Took my 2wd getrag apart at the bro-in-laws shop this weekend, to HELL with spending all day with the die grinder and risking cutting your mainshaft and or 5th gear etc. I originally went there to use his press, but the shaft and gears wouldn't fit in the base of the press. So did some digging in the 'big tool' room and found a bearing splitter and two jaw puller. Worked like a charm. Pulled each bearing and gear off much easier than fighting with the die grinder, JMO. But of course these tools maybe high dollar. I plan to check for my next getrag build.

 

[dpuckett]

Dieselman359 also mentioned investing in a press as well. Be handy as heck. I dont know how a 2 jaw puller would do- some of those bearings oare tight, esp the front bearing on the input shaft- and I have a tendency toward bad luck in those situations.



DP

 

[WJune]

That mainshaft loaded with gears is to much for me to handle in a press, alone!

I finaly bit the bullet an bought a new gear seperator, over a $100. as I recall. To much for a China tool. Already had a huge military 2 jaw puller which I use. Still had to heat or cut a couple bearings to get them off.

 

[bgilbert]

I priced the two tools at a bearing shop (not the cheapest place to get such tools) and the BIG 2 jaw puller was $150, and gear separator/splitter was $50. Sure made the job simple. You would need a puller with a long reach, looks like the medium and small 2 jaw pullers won't work. I don't think I'll invest in them anytime soon, hopefully the bro-in-law will let me borrow them next time when I do the 4wd getrag.

 

[Rebel Ram]

I had an easy saturday to mess with the gear box. (no parts here yet) So I tried to buy a bearing puller and pull them. Damn!!!!!!!! Cant get a bite. So back went the puller. I was considering grinding, But thought twice. Even if I get the races off with out damaging the 3/4 syncro or 5th gear I'll still have a bunch of steel dust and abrasive wheel material on the cluster. So no. I think I will try to burn some custom half plates out of 3/16" T1 steel at the shop on the Burny 5 and bridge them and try to press them off at the Machine shop. No matter what though, I think I'm going to have to grind the input bearing. I cannot see how to get under it.

Rebuild kit supposed to be here tuesday. Con OFE Friday. Oo.

 

[bgilbert]

A big two jar puller should be able to get on the race of the input bearing on the input shaft. A small two jar puller would work on the pocket bearing race. The races have a nice groove on them the pullers can grab hold of.



For the rear output race, a bearing separator around one of the gears, then use the puller to pull against the separator.

 

[PToombs]

I think you mean jaw puller? I think the jars would break! :-laf



I can't help my self.

 

[Rebel Ram]

Well shes done! I am very pleased with my results. Thanks to all that chimmed in on here and 1stgens. I had allot of fun and learned even more. ALL of my noises are gone. No idle clatter. No 4th gear chatter. No whine from third or me. :-laf I replaced the 3/4 fork and all bearings. I borrowed a good set of mag dial indicators and dialed the packs in perfect. With the new OFE and roller pilot bearing its like what i would imagine new would be. New trans mounts and straitened X member. The last thing to fix is the cheesy rubber shifter joint. Once again thanks to everyone that helped and to Jay for the literature.

 

[SAndreasen]

does the bearing kit come with the pocket bearing for the inpu shaft ?

 

[WJune]

The ones I buy from Zumbrota and another (can't recall name) vender do.