IMPORTANT question — Crankshaft Rear Main Seal TagsNone

[seafish]

When I was done in the wood shop, I walked over to the mechanics shop and started to install the NV271 transfer case support bracket that I had got from Genos awhile back, but had never made time to install.

I bolted the adapter bracket bolted onto the TC, but before I could mount it on the skid plate, I realized that I needed to clean the dirt and grease from the skid plate, but once I had cleaned the dirt and grease off it, I saw the rust, so I realized that I need to wire brush and repaint the whole dam thing.

Took an extra hour I wasn't expecting, but got it cleaned, primed and repainted and back inside the shop as the sun set. Thank god for Rustoleum's quality quick dry rust prevention products,

Time for a G&T … I'll have to finish the support bracket install tomorrow.

 

[NIsaacs]

I guess I travel in small circles, I have never heard of this upgrade. The ad says for ('03-'07) auto equipped trucks. I guess it will fit manuals too? I wonder what the difference is between 2nd get trucks and 3rd gen?

In '94, a friend of mine had me install a Gear Venders in his new 3500 4x4. It promptly broke the t-case housing. I don't think him hauling house logs for me to Colorado, with a 30' tandem dually gooseneck had anything to do with it.

 

[seafish]

Went down to the shop today to install the freshly painted skid plate and immediately found one of the four threaded holes to be be lightly stripped and wouldnt tighten down. sigh.

I grabbed an M12-1.75 x 30mm bolt (and correct flat washer and lock washer) from the bins, lightly filed the burr off from the face of the crossmember, and then drilled out the stripped M10 hole with a 13/32" drill bit and retapped for the M12-1.75 bolt.

My OCD really wanted me to drill and tap out ALL 4 holes, but after inspecting and testing each of them and finding them good, my common sense wrestled my OCD into submission and I left the 3 good holes using the OEM M10 bolts and I used only the one M12.

The M12 bolt still (barely) fit through the skid plate holes (which are over sized for lateral movement), and 15 minutes later, the 48RE TC adapter bracket was properly bolted to the skid plate.

I have annotated the first pic below with a yellow arrow to indicate the location of the single 3/4" hole that I drilled into the skid plate to allow the 48RE transfer case support bracket kit to be used with a G56 transmission. EZ PZ !!!!

Second pic shows the retapped and larger bolt.

Third pic is the happy picture.

 

[seafish]

Performed an blood transfusion on the NV271

 

[seafish]

@NIssacs

I did need to drill a single additional hole in the skid plate in order to use the 48RE/NV271 bracket kit with the
G56 transmission. After that, everything bolted up in perfect alignment.

See the edited pic in my post above, annotated with yellow arrow, to show the location of the 3/4" hole that I drilled in the skid plate with a step bit.

 

[NIsaacs]

I like the Ground Hawgs on your fork lift, I had a set on my loader.

#ad

 

[seafish]

I like the Ground Hawgs on your fork lift, I had a set on my loader.

Sharp eyes once again, Sir

 

[Ozymandias]

I stripped two of them , replaced with steel rivet nuts so I can use the same bolt and functionality.

 

[seafish]

I stripped two of them , replaced with steel rivet nuts so I can use the same bolt and functionality.

Yes it will forever forward drive me crazy when I have to bring two different sockets to remove one skid plate, but thankfully that won't be too often.

I will post back later today when the truck is back on the ground and after a test drive.

 

[Ozymandias]

Your 12mm hole will fit a 10mm rivet nut.

Get a kit from Jeff's store for M5-M10 and enjoy for future projects.

I got this one, https://line10tools.com/products/pr...t-with-6-metric-sae-mandrels-60pcs-rivet-nuts because of it's compact size it can be used on many places. Only restriction is it can't do stainless steel nuts above M6 - to hard to push close.

 

[Topzide]

Like @Ozymandias is stating, a rivet nut set is a great tool for the toolbox! Gives you option for fasten something you're adding or fixing a stripped out hole! There are a lot of choices on the inserts. Here's another great resource; https://www.rivetsonline.com/.

 

[seafish]

^^^ I love me my riv nut set … that said it was 300' away at the woodshop… I just went with the at hand solution and seems to have worked fine.

 

[seafish]

MORE importantly…. as of noon today …. Maya rides again !!!!

First impressions — The Valair dual disc organic "street" and "quiet" clutch set up with strapped floater plate is MUCH easier and MUCH quieter and MUCH smoother on engagement then the SBC Con OFE that I replaced EVER was.

The clutch pedal depresses with substantially LESS effort, despite the 3800# pressure plate, and all the gears engage tightly but with zero of the grabbing or bucking that I always had with the Con OFE.

Downshifting in any gear, even into granny, is also effortless with zero or minimal double clutching, as opposed to the Con OFE, which ALWAYS needed double clutching and even then would not engage smoothly most times.

While there is some noticeable gear rollover noise in neutral, there is zero floater plate rattle with the clutch depressed. FURTHERMORE, the extra attention that I payed to quieting down the transmission tunnel and reinforcing the original sound.heat blanket, is CLEARLY noticeable as the cab is MUCH quieter with the windows rolled up or even rolled down.

In short, I am mightily impressed with this Valair clutch and simply wish that I had installed it many years ago.

While I havent towed with it yet (thats on Tuesday) and I am sure that it will continue to break in for awhile, but even after my short test drive, the clutch pedal is already becoming firmer but NOT harder.

Win, win, win… and thanks to all of you for the helpful advice … goes without saying that TDR rocks!!!

 

[seafish]

First tow today (a lighter load) with the new Valair DD organic clutch …it continues to upshift and downshift effortlessly with minimal pedal effort, though gear rollover noise with lugging starts at a slightly higher RPM, probably just due to the heavier clutch plates and flywheel.
Id say that I want to keep RPMs above 1600 at least when towing, but that's fine with me.