getrag pocket bearing...(GPS..need parts help)

[RHancock]

well the vibration in 4th and 5th got worse. . so I pulled the Getrag down... bad pocket bearing but no other damage from what I see...



anyone know of a vendor in the La Basin that stocks rebuild parts for a Getrag????



I guess I will take the trans the rest of the way down and look at the counter shaft bearing and the rear mainshaft bearings tomarrow...



Anything else you guys can think of... to look at or that you have seen fail. I really like my truck and have had little trouble with the Getrag to this point (guess it was my turn) but I change the fluid regular and overfill...

 

[1stgen4evr]

Getrag

You will note that the input shaft does not have a bearing race that you can replace. That surface will almost certainly be bad and will require a new input shaft. Depending on how long you ran the transmission with the pocket bearing going out and consequently shedding metal all around, you will/may have deteroriated the rest of the bearings through out the transmission. It is a long way to the point of changing the pocket bearing. Check out all the bearings. Replace anything that is iffy.



Do you have any notion as to why the pocket bearing failed? I killed mine having the truck towed (only 12 miles) without droping the drive shaft. There can also be a problem with the pilot bearing. Look closely at the end of the input shaft and wear there will be indicative of the condition of the pilot bearing. My guess is that it needs replacing. Mine was a needle bearing that I replaced with an oilite style bearing. Look very carefully at the gear teeth surfaces on both sides of the pocket area. If you had metal shucking through them, there will be some scuffing. This will lead to high temperatures and oil loss and repeat failure if that is not taken care of (new gears).



There is a very good chance that you need to replace the third and fourth gear syncro ring as well. The mechanism of the shift components there at the pocket bearing will surely have metal in it and will need to be inspected and cleaned meticulously. It will fall apart in your hands and the three detent balls will dissapear into outer space. Witness marks will be the only thing to guide your reassembly.



The pocket bearing and the front countershaft bearing are the most common point of failure for the getrag. The other things will add to the cost of what you are about to do. My guess is that depending on how completely you rebuild the transmission, you are about to spend in the neighborhood of 1800 dollars.



I have seen a rebuild price of 1700 but if you do an excange, you don't know what the unit was built up from. And you stand a good chance of repeat failure. I always use my core and do the job myself whether it be motor, transmission, or axle.



I get my parts from Man-Tran in Tallahassee Fla. Don't have any idea where you can get parts out there.



James

 

[RHancock]

Thanks for the feedback...



I change the fluid reguarly and didn't have any metal in the fluid... Call me paranoid but I have changed it every other oil change since I got the truck. . I have pulled some of the rest of it apart and the bearings look ok. . will probably replace them anyway. .



I agree that I will have to change the input, after looking at it... but the pilot bushing looks great as does the front of the input shaft. . the only indicators I had were a vibration at 50 under load... I think this may have been bad for some time as I have had a real small vibration (like a U joint going) for some time it just got worse in the last week or so. .



I hope I caught it before it got anything else. . I will let you know . .

 

[1stgen4evr]

Reuse of parts

Quite a lot of the parts can be used if you have the confidence and experience to judge the condition. You don't state the miles on your truck but on my truck at about 300k, I began to have trouble with the 4th gear syncro. I nursed it on to around 380k at which time I pulled the transmission and replaced the 3 and 4 syncro.



Because of my misdiagnosis of a vibration that had become increasingly evident, I changed the original transmission at 460k and then discovered that my problem was the Dana. The bearing on the ring gear side of the carrier was going out and thinking back, obviously had been for some extended period of time.



I would reccommend that you replace at least the 4th gear syncro. It is a long way down to where you are now. Reverse, OD, 3rd and 4th gear use interchangable syncro rings. If you found some used parts, reverse syncro will typically have nearly no wear.



Good luck and keep us posted.



James

 

[RHancock]

Thanks... I didn't even think to pull the cover on the dana but I will check that out when I get this back in. . ... I started looking at the U joints and output of the 205 but they just fine... I pulled the side cover on the Getrag and figured out the pocket was bad. . The interesting part is the input shaft bearing is fine. . This may have been bad for some time and I just happened to find it looking for something else. . ???



I was going to replace the input shaft and pocket bearing and reshim the trans. . --any reason it pull the rest of the gears off the main shaft?? or replace the countershaft bearings if the look good and the fluid was clean?????? other than the vibration I had no other problems it didn't even have the Getrag growl and shifted better that other trucks I have driven. .





As for the truck it has about 70k on the trans. I bought it 3 years ago with a fresh mopar rebuild in it. . but the oil that came out of it when I first changed it was a bit thick... The previous owner was an older man who ordered the truck new, paid others to work on it and odviously never worked the truck that hard in the 150k miles he had it. .



Well a two year degree in automechanics and 2 years of engineering school I should be able to figure out what is bad. . but I am not perfect or do I know it all so I will take all the help I can get. .

 

[RHancock]

Got a chance to look at everthing in the daylight... the rest of the bearings look good. . but the input bearing and race and the pocket bearing are deffinately getting replaced. . Not that bad but I don't like the way they look (a wear patern and some minor flaking on the race looks like it went dry at one point). . Input shaft is ok... amazing The interesting part is that I put it all back together and the mainshaft had some play(no preload) . . so what I think happened is one of the bearings started wear a little and the preload was lost... and It must have happened recently as everything else looked good...



Now taking your advice I pulled the cover on the Dana... Can you say Black gear oil... (and it is only about 6 months old)... well what was left of the carrier shims were on the magnet. . and the bearings are toast... . can you say lots of play... . so I found the source of the vibration... a little cheeper than a roached Getrag... . I have seen this on other rearends before but usually they make noise and you can tell somthing is wrong...



Thanks for the advice and help to 1stgen4evr, Scotmartin, and Jay Lenard for the rebuild manual... .



Well this is going to be an expensive week for a truck I have only had to do brakes and tires on since I got it... ... . but I should be out less than 600 $ hopefully... Not bad for a 13 year old truck that I have worked the p#?@ out of and put a 70k miles on...

 

[1stgen4evr]

preload

Be sure the countershaft preload is good to go. Use a bar and push the countershaft forward and aft. There should be NO movment. There is a very good chance that they are ok but an equal likelyhood that they need to be shimmed.



I have fifty years of wrenching and I miss sometimes but I have gained the confidence to reuse a good bearing. A used bearing will be 'run in' and can be set closer as to preload without going 'that tad extra so that it will be just right when it runs in'.



I hope you don't find that the carrier is trash. Mine was and I had to get a different ring gear carrier from my salvage stock. Also check the fit of the outer race on the ring gear side. I didn't have to replace the housing. No credit to my experience there, I just got lucky. The stub of the carrier bearing took all the damage. This bearing was so bad that the rollers were out of the ground up cage. Surprisingly, the bearing on the opposite side was still intact. The gears didn't show any noise after getting everything back together. Best luck on all the project.



James