Getting ready for winter, need some help

[biggieou]

Hey yall, in a few weeks I will be parkin the oil burner and put an old Ranger through the salt and slush. Now before I put her up for the winter what all should I do. Change the oil, and antifreeze and add anti-gelling conditioner to the fuel I figure. But what type of antifreeze and conditioner do you all suggest? What else would you all suggest? And while being parked should I(or my Dad since I will be at school) go out and start it up every couple days? Should I plug it in from time to time?

I just wanna keep the ole girl ready to go for spring time! Thanks for all your help!



-Josh

 

[bgilbert]

I'm not the expert here, but from reading and in my head, I would say make sure the antifreeze % is proper for the anticipated temps you'll see. Clean oil wouldn't hurt, that way no contaminents/water/fuel won't have a chance to sit there and build up moisture or what have you. Change fuel filter. Fill fuel tank up, add proper amount of antigel, although since it will be down all winter, it won't be necessary, unless you or someone might need the truck in the middle of freezing temps. Antigel is just there to keep your fuel from gelling in cold temps. When you pull it out in the spring, the temps will not be freezing. If your fuel gelled, it will 'ungel' by spring.



No need to plug in. Just a waste of the electric bill. Some rat dope/bait placed in the cab would be good if you have any rodents planning on shacking up in the old Dodge for the winter.



I wouldn't start the truck while it sat all winter. This will just put a strain on the electrical system. It won't ever fully charge sitting there idling.

 

[JLEONARD]

What we diesel boaters do to store our engines for the winter would apply to your situation. .

Do what Bill said... . and I agree do not turn over or start your truck for just a few minutes. That does more harm than good IMHO.

When you're ready to fire up in the spring, disconnect the fuel solenoid wire and turn over until you see oil pressure registering on the gage. Then re connect the wire and let it fire up. That will prevent a "dry start".

Jay

 

[Greenleaf]

This all sounds vaugly familair... . parking the oil burner and driving an old Ford Ranger... .



-S

 

[biggieou]

Thanks for the help guys. Didnt realize starting it and letting it idle for awhile was so bad on it. What kinda antifreeze do you guys suggest and how many gallons does it take?

Greenleaf what kinda Ranger do you have? I just picked up a 93 Supercab 2wheel drive w/359,000 miles on the original 4cyl and 5spd transmission. I got it off of my uncle for $300. Amazingly enough for the miles that are on it, the body is in really great shape, just some paint flakes were surface rust is now and some dents, but no huge rust spots. These dang Rangers are prolly the toughest trucks Ford has built since the late 70's. I've now had 3 of them, and they all are very good dependable trucks.

 

[Greenleaf]

My Ranger is a 92, older body style you know. It has 167???thousand miles and has proven to be very reliable and tough. 4 cyl/2. 3 Five speed. Bought it new from Mike Pruitt (the football guy). I can pull a full sized gravity wagon with it..... unloaded of course.









GL

 

[JLEONARD]

Didnt realize starting it and letting it idle for awhile was so bad on it

Not that it is SO bad, but it won't do it much good.

1st the starter will probably use more juice than you will put back at idle.

2nd the engine will not come up to temp good at idle... so you will only build condensation in the crankcase and not be able to dry it out. Plus at cold idling the unburned fuel will wash the cyl walls and dilute your oil, and the parrafins in the fuel will coat the cyl walls.

3rd You'll be doing a cold dry start each time.

Now whether this all will mean anything in the course of the vehicle's life is another story... it may mean more in thoery than in practice.

 

[biggieou]

Didnt realize starting it and letting it idle for awhile was so bad on it

Not that it is SO bad, but it won't do it much good.

1st the starter will probably use more juice than you will put back at idle.

2nd the engine will not come up to temp good at idle... so you will only build condensation in the crankcase and not be able to dry it out. Plus at cold idling the unburned fuel will wash the cyl walls and dilute your oil, and the parrafins in the fuel will coat the cyl walls.

3rd You'll be doing a cold dry start each time.

Now whether this all will mean anything in the course of the vehicle's life is another story... it may mean more in thoery than in practice.

Makes sense, and actually it makes life easier if I dont have to start it up periodically.

Any suggestions on antifreeze? This is the first time I have changed the antifreeze since I got my truck so I dont know what I should use. Also how many gallons does it hold?

 

[bgilbert]

It's been so long since I've posted antifreeze facts or comments. If I remember correctly, without opening a book, you want an ethylene glycol based antifreeze NOT propylene glycol based. 4-5 gallons I imagine. When I do the next CTD antifreeze change, I'm going to get some of that Cummins/Fleetguard blue premix. If you have a Cummins distributor nearby I would go there and get some. While you're at Cummins I would get a new updated thermostat and do that switch then when you have the coolant drained. Stay away from aftermarket t-stats, Cummins parts only on the engine!

 

[biggieou]

Anyone know of a Cummins distributor near Akron or Marietta?

 

[bgilbert]

http://www.cummins.com/na/pages/en/distributors/distributor.cfm?state=oh