Mike,
Thanks, that's not a simple portable technique like the Fluke you demonstrated. Watched several of your youtubes and the common light plug in tester, got one too, just like everyone else. Need to be more carefull. I also hardwired a 30A surge protector into my trailer. In a couple of weeks we have a gang of about 30 rigs getting together, Sounds like the safe approach is to Fluke test the pedestal first, correct? I already lost a 30A shoreline pedestal plug at a campground already. I might have a Fluke by then and be the guy going around.
Do you work for a related RV, electrical or other company?
Thanks,
Gary
Gary,
Yes, test the pedestal first using a NCVT for proper polarity and a non-hot ground before plugging in. Ideally, you'll also us a voltmeter to check the voltage. Then test your RV for hot-skin voltage after plugging in. If your RV has a hot-skin voltage, you'll detect it from inches or even a foot away using a Non Contact Voltage Tester such as a Fluke VoltAlert.
Here's an article I wrote about testing for proper voltages in 20, 30 and 50 amp RV outlets. http://www.noshockzone.org/rv-electrical-safety-part-iii-–-outlets/
And no, I don't work for any RV, electrical or other related industry. I'm a sound engineer and pro-sound writer and curently teach sound production seminars for www.HowToSound.com. I became interested in RV hot-skin voltage problems after of few of my sound buddies complained about getting shocked from their tour busses. So I did some experiments and developed the Proximity Hot-Skin test, the NCVT outlet test, and now I'm working on the hot-water heater random explosion from H2-O2 theory. I really don't think a rusted block heater will cause the engine to blow up from an H2-O2 explosion, but it will indeed cause a hot-skin voltage condition on your truck if you plug into an ungrounded outlet. And a tripping GFCI is probably a good hint that your block heater has rusted through. I'll keep you posted as this experiment continues.
Mike Sokol
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