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Glacier Diesel Power Kit + 2 micron Filter Kit

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cold air intake

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Tom, you are probably going to want to crank the pressure up more than that. I never let mine drop below 30... . that was per John's recommendation
 
How necessary is the Air/water seperator apsect of a FASS for performace?



From the looks of things it's not. But what I read, air in the fuel is retarding timing and that's not nescessary good.
 
JasonCzerak said:
How necessary is the Air/water seperator apsect of a FASS for performace?



From the looks of things it's not. But what I read, air in the fuel is retarding timing and that's not nescessary good.



My only comment about the FASS is that it made a difference (you can feel) in my truck's performance.



steved
 
lmills said:
Tom, you are probably going to want to crank the pressure up more than that. I never let mine drop below 30... . that was per John's recommendation





I just got done playing in diesel fuel... Got the #15 spring and the 40thou shim and that nets me right at 30psi at idle...



Now for the road test... :) :D
 
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MFalkinham said:
I'm not sure what my dual-return-line Walbro setup is running at WOT right now, but I'm installing an in-cab fuel pressure gauge this weekend and will have that information soon.

Just got the gauge installed. It's an Autometer Phantom 0-30psi with electric sender. I used a tapped banjo bolt on the bottom outlet of the fuel filter canister and then added a snubber to eliminate pressure spikes and 30" rubber fuel hose to dampen vibrations. On this new gauge I'm seeing 21psi at idle, around 20psi during in-town cruising, 18-19psi on the highway, and 13-14 at WOT. This is with a Walbro GSL-392, an open 1/4" CP3 bypass and an additional 3/16" return line to the tank.

I also added an Autometer transmission temp gauge while I was at it. I really like the Autometer gauges for quality and good looks.
 
Matt S said:
So how did it go? Did you have to walk home? :D



Road test was very very very long!! hahaha



Really though, tested the truck on the way home on 6/5 and the truck feels about the same HP... BUT, on the dyno I remember the PSI dropping around 2800-2900 rpm, and thus losing a bit of HP -- Well on the way home the truck pulled hard all the way to 3100 and felt as if the PSI was not dropping.



I promise to get my in-cab FP back in, and get some real world PSI results.



PS - I am still thinking the pump rocks
 
Is there any reason the 2 micron filter could not be located very close to the fuel tank rather than right before CP3? On the Glacier site they recomend a pre-screen filter to catch the crap stirring up in the tank and I think it woudl be a great place for the 2 micron filter. Would also make for a very easy filter change when the need arrives.



Where does the glacier kit have you mount the fuel pump? I think the big line kit and the pump will be going on mine very soon but I would really like the 2 micron filter right at the tanks so nothing that gets pumped in from fill-ups ever gets into my system.



Jeff
 
JPereira said:
Is there any reason the 2 micron filter could not be located very close to the fuel tank rather than right before CP3? On the Glacier site they recomend a pre-screen filter to catch the crap stirring up in the tank and I think it woudl be a great place for the 2 micron filter. Would also make for a very easy filter change when the need arrives.

Where does the glacier kit have you mount the fuel pump? I think the big line kit and the pump will be going on mine very soon but I would really like the 2 micron filter right at the tanks so nothing that gets pumped in from fill-ups ever gets into my system.

Jeff

You can look at my Reader's Rigs gallery for pictures of a custom setup like you mentioned. I fabricated a mounting bracket for the Walbro and a Perma-Cool fuel filter/separater. I also have a Fram inline filter before the Walbro for catching the larger debris before they reach the pump. So, my flow sequence is..... Fram inline, Walbro GSL-392, Perma-Cool filter/separator, OEM filter, CP3.

So far it has worked flawlessly, but it hasn't been tested in the wintertime during freezing temps. I'm hoping that if I run adequate anti-gel additives there won't be any problems. I've never heard of a FASS system having cold-weather issues mounted there.
 
you can order the FF5320 and the filter head 3930618S and plumb together the fittings and save quite a bit off the price.
 
Actually, Richard has a universal remote mount kit now available as well. I was just browsing his site and saw it. You should be able to mount the filter wherever you like ;)
 
The filter head #'d above has 1/2" ports that i picked up for less than $35 with the filter. i'll just splice it inline with what I already have.
 
MFalkinham

Is there any reason why the 2 micron filter cannot go before the pump? I would think it would help to filter the fuel before reaching pump or stock system would be better. Are you not supposed to make the walbro pump try and pull the fuel thru the 2 micron filter?

How would that be any different than having the Fram filter before the pump?



Jeff
 
Is there any reason why the 2 micron filter cannot go before the pump? I would think it would help to filter the fuel before reaching pump or stock system would be better. Are you not supposed to make the walbro pump try and pull the fuel thru the 2 micron filter?

How would that be any different than having the Fram filter before the pump?



I run my Racor filter pre fuel pump holly blue and now the walbro, works like a charm never any problems, changed my first racor filter at 20,000 miles use



Lance Groft
 
I think that having the 2-micron filter before the pump would work OK. The reason I mounted it after the pump was to prevent starving the pump if I get a bad tank of fuel. The Fram has a much higher micron rating than the Perma-Cool, so it will only stop the big stuff. Plus, it's about half the price of the Perma-Cool filter if I would need to replace it due to bad fuel. But again, it would probably work just fine the way you describe.
 
I suppose the main point here is to build something cheaper then the imfamious FASS setup. I personally have not touched the fuel system short of electronics. I'm mearly speaking from logic and what I have read on these threads and on other web sites.



Next on my list is a FASS. These theads will influence my next purchase tho. (duuuhh)



If one were to put together something like this:



1. Walbro pump

2. 2 micron filter

3. <b>air seperator</b>

4. <b>water seperator</b>

5. big line kit

6. pressure regulator springs/shims and such.

7. extra return line possibly?

8. Fuel heater, either the stock canister or an aftermarket unit



What would the cost be? What one can fabricate metal for brackets wise to save a few $$, I don't care personally. Not all of us can do/have the tools to do so. Most can handle basic plumbing with basic tools.



Can you build a setup like this for +- $100 then a FASS unit?



My purchase logic here is that if I have to spend $800 in parts to get something that does exactly what a FASS does and have that feature of quiter operation. Then it's worth it. . But right now, that I could live with the little noise, I mean, it's a hot rod, the sound of a big fuel pump is part of the picture right? :)



IMHO, if you can't build a fuel system that has all the above listed features for less then $800. I think I would stick with what's proven.



As for the motors breaking on these FASS units? couldn't one plumb in a walbro in place of the FASS motor and us it's filtration and heater and air speration abilities?





What I DO NOT see here is all the aspects that a FASS can provide in these home brew kits.
 
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JasonCzerak said:
1. Walbro pump

2. 2 micron filter

3. <b>air seperator</b>

4. <b>water seperator</b>

5. big line kit

6. pressure regulator springs/shims and such.

7. extra return line possibly?

8. Fuel heater, either the stock canister or an aftermarket unit



What I have currently (once the 2-micron is installed) does most of that except the air seperator, which I am fairly certain would not cost a bunch to add...

tank to pre-filter to walbro to stock canister to 2-mic filter to CP3 -- All 3/8 or bigger line and no banjos



BTW - Just like a true race car, I love the fuel dumping back to the tank :D
 
Tomeygun said:
What I have currently (once the 2-micron is installed) does most of that except the air seperator, which I am fairly certain would not cost a bunch to add...

tank to pre-filter to walbro to stock canister to 2-mic filter to CP3 -- All 3/8 or bigger line and no banjos



BTW - Just like a true race car, I love the fuel dumping back to the tank :D



So, tally up a total cost here. What have you spent?



I suppose I could get off my lazy butt and goole an air seperator deal. Anyone have a cost for one off the top of their head or links?
 
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