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Glacier Diesel Power Kit + 2 micron Filter Kit

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cold air intake

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JasonCzerak said:
So, tally up a total cost here. What have you spent?



I suppose I could get off my lazy butt and goole an air seperator deal. Anyone have a cost for one off the top of their head or links?



$350 for the Glacier diesel walbro kit (you can piece kit yourself, but this is way easier, and I'm all about easy)

$179?? - Glacier 2micron kit with Big line

$100?? - Glacier Fuel/water separator



EDIT -- see post below
 
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Tomeygun said:
$350 for the Glacier diesel walbro kit (you can piece kit yourself, but this is way easier, and I'm all about easy)

$179 - Glacier 2micron kit with Big line

$100 - Glacier Fuel/water separator



So it's close. I can't for the life of me find something on google that does air separotor with the exception for something that looks to small and for boats.



$630 + what ever is needed to do the air bit.
 
JasonCzerak said:
As for the motors breaking on these FASS units? couldn't one plumb in a walbro in place of the FASS motor and us it's filtration and heater and air speration abilities?

For the record, I don't believe the FASS system has a heater (someone please correct me if I'm wrong). It pumps, filters and provides air separation. The FASS motor sits on top of a custom fabricated mounting block that also serves as the head for the filter and separator. I don't think you could easily substitute a Walbro where the FASS motor resides. Walbro is an inline pump cooled by fuel, and the FASS motor is air cooled so fuel does not flow through it. Completely different designs.

I figure that I spent roughly the same for my complete Walbro system as a FASS would have cost. I had to piece it together, which (with shipping) was more expensive than the current Glacier kit. Plus, I added some extra functionality and nice to have items like the Geno's aluminium fuel billet cap ($60) and some Jeg's gauges ($40). The biggest advantage is that I carry a second spare Walbro pump ready to install if the first one should fail. It was an extra $109 on eBay, but the peace of mind is worth it. That was the biggest reason why I went with Walbro; to carry an extra FASS motor would have been cost prohibitive. So when I add it all up, I feel that I got a bargain.
 
JasonCzerak said:
So it's close. I can't for the life of me find something on google that does air separotor with the exception for something that looks to small and for boats.



$630 + what ever is needed to do the air bit.



And by they way, I know GDP will be making a F/W and filter twin setup so you dont have to buy the two seperate. The combo would be quite a bit less then when purchase alone...



Just an FYI - I bet your under $575. Then again Richard at Glacier Diesel Power (GDP) would know better
 
MFalkinham said:
The biggest advantage is that I carry a second spare Walbro pump ready to install if the first one should fail. It was an extra $109 on eBay, but the peace of mind is worth it. That was the biggest reason why I went with Walbro; to carry an extra FASS motor would have been cost prohibitive. So when I add it all up, I feel that I got a bargain.



hmm, never thought about that. One things for sure, it won't take up alot of room in the cab!
 
MFalkinham said:
For the record, I don't believe the FASS system has a heater (someone please correct me if I'm wrong). It pumps, filters and provides air separation.



...



My bad, it has a port ready for a fuel heater.



I really like this GDP kit. Modules are the best way to do stuff were possible. I suppose I'll wait around a bit to see if GDP adds some sort of air seperator deal.



With these kits, can the factory fuel heater still be in use? I live up in MN and on the -10 degree nights, I would like to know that heater is running doing something if I keep the orignal canister.
 
JasonCzerak said:
My bad, it has a port ready for a fuel heater.



I really like this GDP kit. Modules are the best way to do stuff were possible. I suppose I'll wait around a bit to see if GDP adds some sort of air seperator deal.



With these kits, can the factory fuel heater still be in use? I live up in MN and on the -10 degree nights, I would like to know that heater is running doing something if I keep the orignal canister.



The factory filter housing will still have the heating ability. Thats why I left mine even if its only filtering 10micron
 
Tomeygun said:
The factory filter housing will still have the heating ability. Thats why I left mine even if its only filtering 10micron



Well then, I suppose I'll prolly oder this style kit. And wait for an air seperator deal.
 
Tomeygun said:
I just got done playing in diesel fuel... Got the #15 spring and the 40thou shim and that nets me right at 30psi at idle...



Now for the road test... :) :D





BTW - after the truck is warm and I get back from a drive the PSI is right at 27-28psi at idle...



FWIW
 
Put me down as another happy GDP pump customer. I didn't add any shims to it and am sitting right at 22psi idle, with the lowest I can pull it being 16psi. Now my egts are going through the roof. Turbo on order. At least now, its not running out of fuel. What next? Injectors?
 
No, but I need some air now... It is quiet. And have to watch the throttle, or I'll need another set of tires, prematurely.
 
Jengle said:
Now my egts are going through the roof.

So are you saying that your egts are now too high as a result of the Walbro install, or that they were already too high before? :confused:

Just trying to better understand your post. Thanks.
 
MFalkinham said:
So are you saying that your egts are now too high as a result of the Walbro install, or that they were already too high before? :confused:

Just trying to better understand your post. Thanks.

he's got the fuel now to run the upper levels of the TST. :D
 
Tomeygun said:
SOOO.....



I got the pump on today. With the the weakest shim I have 13psi at idle. .



I plan on using the 15lb spring and the 40thou shim. Till later... ... .....



Is there anything wrong with running it at 13 psi, the reason I ask is the stock pump on my truck ran about 9-12 psi and my gauge tops at 15 psi so if I ran with the weakest spring I would not have to replace my fuel pressure gauge. I am not looking for more performance just a better lift pump.

Thanks
 
yycguy said:
Is there anything wrong with running it at 13 psi, the reason I ask is the stock pump on my truck ran about 9-12 psi and my gauge tops at 15 psi so if I ran with the weakest spring I would not have to replace my fuel pressure gauge. I am not looking for more performance just a better lift pump.

Thanks



13psi is certainly good enough for a stock Cp3 - IMO...



What matters is what does the maker of the CP3 want the modded CP3 to be fed with?



If you are just looking for a quiet reliable pump, Walbro is the way, IMO

And the kit from GlacierDieselPower just makes it that much easier (what can I say, I hate chasing down the right parts... I like full bolt on kits!)
 
What I mean about the EGTs running high, is that I didn't have enough fuel to raise them to those levels. Now, as Lmills said, I can run the TST on 9x9 and not run below 17psi on fuel, until the TST cuts it off. I deliberately left the TST off my sig. Actually ran out of space, and haven't redone it. I get 22psi at idle and cruise, with a dip to slightly under 20 when I accelerate to cruise at a normal rate. It only goes below 18 when I hammer it with the box on higher levels. The truck also has more power at the lower levels, indicating to me that it wasn't getting enough fuel before. I can say that I would recommend this pump to friends and not worry about it. And the kit is well designed, I didn't need to go to the store for anything. Instructions are well written, also.
 
Update:



I have not had a chance to get my in-cab FP back in due to my tools were stolen (see other thread), BUT I am running 30psi to the Cp3 now...



AND I think my rail psi relief valve finally gave the ghost. I ran on 7/6 one time and it was great, the next time I tried it the truck fell flat but still held 51psi of boost.



Ohh and by the way, I am loving the sounds of the fuel pump now ;)
 
Well, One more happy GDP customer. Installed the 392 pump and remote 2 Micron filter last weekend. Right around 20lbs at idle and have had it down to around 15 under throttle. The hardest part I had was getting to the factory lift pump bolts.



Purchasing these kits are well worth the money to have everything that is needed. The only thing I would have liked was Stainless hardware. I will be replacing the bolts with Stainless before the rust up on the remote filter mount and pump.



Questiion for other GDP users. I usually fill my tank right up to the vent tube. Should I be concerned about doing this now that there is the bypass return pumping fuel into the fill tube? Is anyone else with GDP pumps filling tank right to the brim?



Thanks to Richard for a great kit! Prompt shipment, answered all of my concerns before ordering, Had all the parts I needed to complete the install.
 
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