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Glacier Diesel Power Kit + 2 micron Filter Kit

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cold air intake

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Cat thats odd for Richard at GDP not to have emailed you back yet. Try him again or give him a call. He is always around and I have talked with him at 11:30 at night before when I called to leave a message. He has emailed me at 4:00 in the morning also.
 
I will give him a call after I pull it apart and check things it out, I have only heard good things about him and the system is great.
 
steved said:
So your saying a 7micron with a heater plugged before a 2micron filter without heat??



steved



Yup... Once I changed the 7micron from the stock canister I was back in business. I have 2 stations I use for all of my fueling when I am at home. These are the only stops I have had in the last 12 tanks. Maybe I got unlucky and was there to get the bottom of the barrel?



I was just thinking it may be nice to just leave the 7 micron out of the stock canister. That way I would still have the heater before my 2 micron filter.



tank>strainer>pump>stock canister(no filter)>2micron>cp3



The 2 micron is much larger than 7micron, cheaper and easier to change.



Thanks, Jeff
 
Dieselhed said:
Wow. I would say you had some bad fuel. Have you filled up there before? It shouldn't be plugged after 3,000 miles. I have mine set up the same way you do (I think) and no problems after 5,000 miles.



Mine goes: Tank>Strainer>Pump>Stock Canister (w/7 mic filter)>2 mic filter>CP3



I have an in cab fuel pressure gauge tapped right in front of the CP3. It hasn't dropped below 18 psi unless at WOT, then I can get it down to 17 psi but it recovers quickly.



My pressures are very similar to yours and being read at the same spot when all is well I have 18lbs at idle and I can pull it down a few pounds if I get into it hard. TST I leave on 4/4 for my daily driving.



I buy the 2 micron at a Cummins shop for $10. 80 and I think the 7microns are $13 something. Would be nice to just change the 2 micron when needed.



Jeff
 
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