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Good sounding Turbos?

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On a stock 1991. 5... what turbo could be installed that actually sounds good?



I know performance is the name of the game... but I probably will only tweak the pump settings if I ever do anything else.



My H1C with the 21 housing is basically silent. I like the turbo sound... and would like something more noticable.



I think a ASA filter setup would help along with a straight 4" exhaust. But it all has to start at the turbo.



HX35's sound OK on 24V's... but I'd like to get some decent "whistle" at idle and low rpms.



This is one of the reasons I like owning a TURBO diesel. I like the turbo's. :)



Otherwise my truck sounds like a naturally aspirated Case backhoe right now. I might not be able to back up the sound it makes... but I'd just like some good turbo noise.
 
Plus... if I understand correctly... a 16cm housing will bolt right in place with no mods... correct? The 12's require mods... and the 14's are hard to find and expensive. This is just incase I stick with the H1C.



Either way... the 21 cm has to go.
 
If you have a manual trans then yes the 16 is an excellent choice for all around driving.

My "frankenturbo" sounds pretty good. 16 cm housing and the intake housing and compressor wheel from a 94 WH1C. Thru a "swiss cheezed" airbox with a K&N

Or any of the stage upgrades should be also good for sound.
 
The biggest sound killer is the stock air intake system (designed for sound cancellation) and the under hood mat (bolted to the under side of the hood). Even a stock rig will be much more audible with those two things removed/replaced, but for sure a smaller collar exhaust housing and good turbo will really crank it up. In fact I am leaving my hood insulation in because our rig is just this side of too loud - I know... the things we have to deal with, eh :-laf.

The 16cm collar is a real good upgrade over anything stock, and some (including me) are going with a 14cm collar. I am installing a 14 cm collar and an ATS manifold this week replacing the 16 cm collar and stock manifold, and I am really looking forward to feeling the increased boost (14cm), reduced heat (manifold), and increased power, and we're dynoing it this weekend to measure the results. I'll post back after.

- M2
 
M2,

are you looking to sell the 16cm?

if so for around how much?

if not, where can i find them and whats a reasonable price?

thanks...

by the way, is every stock H1C a 21cm?
 
I find my turbos extreamly loud. I have a hearaing problem and I once asked my wife "What is the screatching sound"... ... ... ... :eek: :eek: That was on the 1990 that I cut a MWES into the housing and use a 21 cm turbine.



The 1992 with the Hybrid PDR reworked HTT Stage III super CFM yadda yadda is even louder. :D



Both trucks use a 4" exhaust pipe on the turbo inlet and the aFe Pro-Guard 7 w/ mesh sock.
 
the biggest killer of turbo sound on the 1st gens is the non-MWE compressor housing!



get an HX35 and remove the silencer ring. stock 12cm housing will give you the most idle flutter out the tailpipe.
 
I like the 14 cm non wastegated version the most.

You can buy them at PDR or HTT for about $175.

A hx-35, non-paper filter and stacks will give you what you looking for.
 
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the biggest killer of turbo sound on the 1st gens is the non-MWE compressor housing!

That could be... my housing does have the MWE groove... . and the truck does turn heads when they hear it rolling up...
 
If you remove the hood insulation u will blister your hood paint. Been there done that

Chet



pretty sure the paint on the hood of your 1st gen will blister no matter what you do! :-laf



mine was falling off long before I bought it and yanked the underhood insulation.



all of my 2nd gens have had it removed with no ill effects. It's the first thing I do with just about ANY vehicle I purchase! Yank the hood insulation. It's an NVH thing more than anything
 
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pretty sure the paint on the hood of your 1st gen will blister no matter what you do!

In an attempt to maximize efficiency, mine skipped the blistering stage and went directly to "peeling":-laf

Now it's in the "rapid oxidation" stage.

Perhaps the turbo whine scared the paint right off?????:-laf:-laf
 
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Turbo Paint

You may have something there Jay. Maybe the harmonics of the winding turbo interfere with the adhesion of the paint. Now I need a bigger turbo with different harmonics and a new layer of paint to test it with. :)



And I just thought it was all that acceleration when the turbo wound up. I figgured that the paint couldn't keep up with the truck. :-laf
 
HX35 it is then. Remove the silencer ring (I'm familiar with this from my 99). And I'll get a 14 housing non-wastegate.



Which size housing would be better incase I decide to "tweak" pump settings? OR if I install replacement injectors which could be slightly upgraded?



I suppose maybe I should get gauges so I'm not assuming for the best and getting the worst.



At least I've narrowed it down to the 14. WG or N-WG may be the question. Or perhaps the 16 N-WG.



I'd rather not go with a wastegate to simplify the setup.



Didn't someone used to make a manual adjustable wastegate controller? Like a little knob with a spring?
 
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curious why one would run a 14cm non-gated vs. a 12cm gated :confused:



Been there, done that. The 12 seemed to offer next to nothing for spool up but it did however kill my power if it was revved over 2300 rpm and egts were worse.

Contrary to popular belief, you can run a hx35 with a 14 housing and not need a wastegate until your up around 36-38 psi. If you need to wastegate it after that, it's time to step up to a s300 series. The 14 housing IMO, is the best of both worlds when comparing 12 and 16 housings.
 
agreed, I've never been that pleased with the 12cm housing... I just figured it would be "free". Honestly I didn't see THAT Much difference between a 12cm gated and an 18. 5 non gated on my 98. the 18. 5 obviously pulled better on top
 
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