Gooseneck hitch

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B&W makes a good hitch for personal Use... If you do HH. . or commercial the B&W and most box hitches are TDC Axle . . IMO it should be 4" ahead of TDC... Also the B&W and most box GNs are to light. . I posted awhile back on 2 deaths BC of the hitch failure after turnover crash. Alll My GNs are Atwood custom build by A&R Welding in Ham lake MN (Al). . the hitch sits on 1" steel.
 
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B&W makes a good hitch for personal Use... If you do HH. . or commercial the B&W and most box hitches are TDC Axle . . IMO it should be 4" ahead of TDC... Also the B&W and most box GNs are to light. . I posted awhile back on 2 deaths BC of the hitch failure after turnover crash. Alll My GNs are Atwood custom build by A&R Welding in Ham lake MN (Al). . the hitch sits on 1" steel.



My B&W is ahead of the rear axle and I know a lot of hot-shotters running these hitches under some pretty heavy loads with no problems.



My recommendation is B&W as well.
 
Take another measurement... it really doesn't matter in most cases... Until you spec your draw-bar or trailer neck... Hotter shotters pull camper trailers. . or freight. . are NO match for the picture trailer. . Take picture trailer with 22k to the DKV landfill with B&W see how long it last... . The axles on that trailer are 8 bolt 6600lbs each with modded springs.



Measure from rear box to TDC BALL Long box is 42" TDC axle. . I have never checked SB... . I challenge any one Bring your B&W I will load 25k in the trailer and We will 90* back turn over some curbs 6" . . The truck and trailer pictured have been doing this for 8 years , In fact the trailer was manufactured in 1998 both 01/97 had same hitch as 03.



B&W work for the Average WW but I would never trust any of the box hitches when pulling the loads I do..... We had 1 B&W in the 04 D-Max Chris bent the hitch when he could not stop and had to take the ditch. . jack knife the trailer. . NO damage to the truck.
 
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Do you have LB or SB. . If You don't mind. . measure form rear pickup bed to TDC ball. I have customer that wants Banks Dual Exhaust and the last one I sold the customer had B&W ... complained that the hitch was hitting the exhaust ,that was back in 06... Maybe B&W has push it ahead some...
 
I had one installed in my '09 (also got the companion) when I bought my 39' toyhauler and am looking to get rid of the goose hitch in the '92 and install another one for the quality and flexibility :D



Oh... And It's made in the states!!!



Edit: Oops!... Been busy for a while and just now got around to submitting my post. :-laf Glad to see that you have made a choice. You'll be happy for many years to come by choosing the B&W!!!
 
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Do you have LB or SB. . If You don't mind. . measure form rear pickup bed to TDC ball. I have customer that wants Banks Dual Exhaust and the last one I sold the customer had B&W ... complained that the hitch was hitting the exhaust ,that was back in 06... Maybe B&W has push it ahead some...

Long bed is a measured and centered 4" hole 47. 5" up from back of bed. Short bed is 45. 5" from back.



I've installed an unknown number of these, and they have all worked very well, both for customers and myself. On my personal trucks and my ranch trucks, I haul everything from a 40' tandem 12k axled flatdeck with pipe, wire, t-posts, and tractors, to a single axle 20' with an 8k with two/three horses in it. Loads range from 1200 to 35,000lbs, well over what should be hauled on a dually truck. My "light" trailers have two 8 lug 8k Dexter axles, and I drag cattle, horses, tractors, trucks, etc all over the countryside, on and off road. I've had to unload my tractor to pull myself out, and I've drug wires off the back of the trailer from draggin it across ditches, trees, and whatever else I have to get over. I don't know what you're doing to yours, but other than a little rattle in mine, I really think the B&Ws have held up well. Anything will break if you jack knife it. I've seen fifth wheel semi trucks break the fifth wheel completely off the frame from hitting the ditch. And the next time you look at a fold down knob, try the Wallace Forge. They're even heavier than the Atwood with a fully forged and solid side support piece, a larger center ball pin, and a lock pin that keeps the ball up, even if the side bar is up.



Also, look for the Remov-a-ball series of hitches, with a 2. 25 shank, and I can't remember the name, but there's also a company making a 35k knob with a 2. 5" round shank that sits in a 3/8" round sleeve that's welded down in the plate, with a retaining bolt or pin that allows it to swivel, and still be removed. Those are about the heaviest you can build in the 2 5/16" series.



I had one installed in my '09 (also got the companion) when I bought my 39' toyhauler and am looking to get rid of the goose hitch in the '92 and install another one for the quality and flexibility :D



Oh... And It's made in the states!!!



Edit: Oops!... Been busy for a while and just now got around to submitting my post. :-laf Glad to see that you have made a choice. You'll be happy for many years to come by choosing the B&W!!!



If you're looking, the B & W Model 1300R is used for the 93 and earlier Dodges. But it requires side plates be made for it, as it doesn't have ones like the 1310 or 1306 models. It's installation instructions and illustration: http://www.turnoverball.com/sites/default/files/documents/1300r_04_19_2011_letter.pdf
 
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Do you have LB or SB. . If You don't mind. . measure form rear pickup bed to TDC ball. I have customer that wants Banks Dual Exhaust and the last one I sold the customer had B&W ... complained that the hitch was hitting the exhaust ,that was back in 06... Maybe B&W has push it ahead some...



Banks is junk anyway. . way overpriced, and not the best quality for what you pay for. For the price of the banks duals, you can get a Magnaflow T409 stainless (shiny from the turbo back) exhaust for less!



-Chris-
 
I had an Atwood flip over in a 01 GMC 2500 "piston slap" 6. 0 2500. With very few easy tow miles, it started clunking at every start/stop. GM replaced the engine, but when the TC/trans started acting up under soon expiring warranty, they couldn't "duplicate the complaint". It had to go. I have a Unigoose in my sig truck. I liked the way the safety chains attached to the Unigoose. I don't like the outside straps on it. They should have been deeper and thicker so I would not have had to put washers between the inside and outside plates to keep the outside ones from bending when I tightened the bolts up. A professional anvil warper friend has a couple of trucks with B+Ws. If he can't mess 'em up, that's the way to go! Mark
 
Long bed is a measured and centered 4" hole 47. 5" up from back of bed. Short bed is 45. 5" from back.



I've installed an unknown number of these, and they have all worked very well, both for customers and myself. On my personal trucks and my ranch trucks, I haul everything from a 40' tandem 12k axled flatdeck with pipe, wire, t-posts, and tractors, to a single axle 20' with an 8k with two/three horses in it. Loads range from 1200 to 35,000lbs, well over what should be hauled on a dually truck. My "light" trailers have two 8 lug 8k Dexter axles, and I drag cattle, horses, tractors, trucks, etc all over the countryside, on and off road. I've had to unload my tractor to pull myself out, and I've drug wires off the back of the trailer from draggin it across ditches, trees, and whatever else I have to get over. I don't know what you're doing to yours, but other than a little rattle in mine, I really think the B&Ws have held up well. Anything will break if you jack knife it. I've seen fifth wheel semi trucks break the fifth wheel completely off the frame from hitting the ditch. And the next time you look at a fold down knob, try the Wallace Forge. They're even heavier than the Atwood with a fully forged and solid side support piece, a larger center ball pin, and a lock pin that keeps the ball up, even if the side bar is up.



Also, look for the Remov-a-ball series of hitches, with a 2. 25 shank, and I can't remember the name, but there's also a company making a 35k knob with a 2. 5" round shank that sits in a 3/8" round sleeve that's welded down in the plate, with a retaining bolt or pin that allows it to swivel, and still be removed. Those are about the heaviest you can build in the 2 5/16" series.







If you're looking, the B & W Model 1300R is used for the 93 and earlier Dodges. But it requires side plates be made for it, as it doesn't have ones like the 1310 or 1306 models. It's installation instructions and illustration: http://www.turnoverball.com/sites/default/files/documents/1300r_04_19_2011_letter.pdf



My 05 was the last time I install any GNs at the time B&W was 44" TDC axle . . So it looks like they changed that 48" is perfect in most applications... My Challenge still stands... But lets add $5K to it if truck or hitch fails YOU lose. . Heck I seen 1 fool that did not hook the pin when dumping his trailer... . He took off like a bat out of he** the neck lifted (Chains Attach) and he tore the hitch and box off the frame... I was laughing so hard I never look at how well it was install or type. . Landfills are the most deadliest to hitches.







The comment on Banks Exhaust... BANKS BY far fit and finish is 2nd to NONE. . Here's a picture of MY 03 W/Duals that were install in 06 I live in MN and spend most of the winter traveling through the Rockies.

I took some picture of the hitch they are just to poor to see anything. . I may pull it out later and take some pics.



Bottom line Box hitches work in most case and are up to the Job. . My standard is much higher. . If the owner would have install the CB similar to My CB (This was a fatal crash on I90 in SD) his Daughter and son-in-law would be alive today... I mentioned this in a previous thread. MY CB Will buckle the frame before it detach-est.
 
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